Rear Awning, anyone done it?

[Blue~Go]

That's some valuable information from your "tarp and stick" and the conversations with the various awning companies.

You can see why (since I don't tend to spend time in rainy areas) I just gave it up for simplicity. There is always a shady side

BUT, that doesn't mean you should - not at all.

I wonder about just a mini "porchlet" that could be set up just so you could fumble for keys at the door without getting soaked. Attachment only to Chinook not the ground. That would not have to adjust for the varying heights from the ground. Again, maybe not worth it?

A couple of other things I tried were an EZ-up type canopy (talk about a bear to carry and store; but you can leave it freestanding in camp which can be a plus). As usual, it was really too low to put up to the Chinook door. Same for a really nice Eureka screen tent I tried (forget the model).

OTOH, the height of the Chinook from the ground does give a nice privacy factor from people walking by (as opposed to, say, a low travel trailer).

If it's any consolation, the friends I have with side door Class C's don't put their awning out all that often either. Can't leave it unattended, has to be fairly high up to clear the door, not supposed to be left out in the rain, etc. (Still easier than the rear door, but by no means perfect. Although there are the auto models.)

The only ones I've seen that really look like they mimic the ease and function of a house entry "mini porch" are Class A's with a mini awning over the door. Since the door is kind of apart from the main side, they don't usually have the "big awning" over the door either. Hmm, never checked into one of those for the Chinook. I wonder?

[HoosierB]

I wonder about just a mini "porchlet" that could be set up just so you could fumble for keys at the door without getting soaked. Attachment only to Chinook not the ground. That would not have to adjust for the varying heights from the ground. Again, maybe not worth it?

Blue, that is the idea I had for revisiting the Trucking' Awn. Out-of-the box install would provide the "porchlet" (Auto-Rafter has 4' extension). If additional coverage is wanted, an optional DIY a tarp-telescopic pole thingy could be setup to the desired length. Attachment to the Auto-rafter would be simple pole bracket adapters. The DIY extension would basically be supporting it's own weight, which is very little.
I'm still working out dimension requirements for the attachment to the Chinook. Carefree provided a PDF download of the installation manual, so that's my guide. Here is a crude (not to scale) illustration of the concept...

[Blue~Go]

I see what you mean now. That might be a good concept as long as it can more-or-less go straight out to clear the door. And with the ladder not in the way. Looks like the lower attachment points would be accessible (one via the tire locker with the driver's side wall removed; one by getting behind the carpet in the closet). Do those middle arms attach to the body? It kind of looks like they just end in mid-air, but obviously that's a simplified drawing.

[HoosierB]

I definitely agree on the door clearance issue. The ladder will be gone to allow for the 5 1/2' Truckin' Awn... the smaller width versions could avoid the ladder but I want the larger coverage. I now use a telescoping ladder (9 or 12', can't recall) that is compact when stowed. Yes, the lower mounting points for the arms look to have accessible locations to install backing plates. The middle arms do attach to the body, but again, I would want backing plates for them as well and right now the one on the drivers side might be the most difficult to get to because of the shower wall. Thinking of using the newer "high bonding auto body adhesive" to install aluminum plates to the raw interior FG shell. Thru bolts with fender washers rather than screws. Any thoughts? The roof bracket for the fabric rail can be an aluminum "el" channel running the entire width of the assembly. Having a lower profile than the bag awnings (no awning case) is another plus.

Straight-out extension seems to provide sufficient overhead door clearance on this truck camper.

[Blue~Go]

Interesting to see that photo. That looks doable, given a few things (ladder, etc.) So are those middle arms in compression? I'm trying to visualize the geometry/forces. On a boat with a bobstay, that middle beam would be in compression, and I think that would be the case here, but I could be wrong. If so, and if access is difficult, I would consider VHB with a large base plate (of course I'd have to get hands on the awning to be sure - maybe there are forces I'm not visualizing.

Also... why can't I see anything at the top where it goes when it is rolled up? You mention no case.... am I missing something? Just curious.

But yeah, that looks doable. And hey, suddenly it's an *advantage* that our rear door doesn't open 180º

I'd say don't discount a deck plate if you want access behind the shower. The flange means you don't have to make a perfect cut, and they will not let water through (I'd vote for a screw in, not a press-in). Also, you have an even larger hole before you install the plate, if you need extra working room. And hey, you can get bag inserts for them so you could have a storage area between the walls Very "racing dinghy." I actually just helped a friend install one into an RV shower stall similar to ours. In his case it's a "cat door" and he keeps the litter box in the shower (can't use the shower door for that purpose because it's glass and when it is open it sticks 90º into a hallway). Works pretty slick - all the smells can go out through the roof vent, easy to keep the area clean, and he just screws the deck plate in when he's going to use the shower (it's low on the wall for cat access, so has to be in place to shower). He used a larger one than you'd have to (so the cat can fit through).

In the closet you could easily cut out a section of carpet on three sides, "hinge" it out, and then re-install it (maybe with dual lock for a "door"). It's just contact cemented to the outside walls. I have my closet carpet out right now, so could help you visualize (I am NOT putting that navy blue carpeting back - it was like a black hole in there! I bought some grey marine carpet that is like what's on the overhead instead).

Hmm, one other consideration: The rear of the Chinook is not vertical. You can see by looking at the "boss" that the door is mounted on (which is more vertical). So how would that affect things?

[HoosierB]

... why can't I see anything at the top where it goes when it is rolled up? You mention no case.... am I missing something? Just curious.

The fabric rolls up on its self. Note the photo and the roll at end of the extended awning? The other end of the fabric attaches to a awning rail on the roof bracket. Kinda like pulling paper towels by holding the last sheet and pulling the whole roll away from it.
I'm not sure if the arms are under compression or it uses a spring-rod action for the retractable fabric roll. I believe it's the latter because it uses a pull strap to deploy the awning and then slide it to the side to lock it in place.
If you get past the dorky drive-in stuff, this is the only video I could source showing the Trucking' Awn being deployed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1qjuz0EXeE

In the closet you could easily cut out a section of carpet on three sides, "hinge" it out, and then re-install it (maybe with dual lock for a "door"). It's just contact cemented to the outside walls. I have my closet carpet out right now, so could help you visualize (I am NOT putting that navy blue carpeting back - it was like a black hole in there! I bought some grey marine carpet that is like what's on the overhead instead).

My closet carpet was partially pulled back during my galley remodel. I plan on installing the light grey marine carpet I purchased to replace that "dark yucky green".

Hmm, one other consideration: The rear of the Chinook is not vertical. You can see by looking at the "boss" that the door is mounted on (which is more vertical). So how would that affect things?

I'm hoping the lower brackets for the support arms can be installed just above where the body contour changes (slightly above the top of the tool compartment door?). From that point up, the shell is flat, not vertical, but flat enough for the support arms to fold up close to the body. Final measurements still needed.

[Blue~Go]

Perfect visualization with the paper towel roll description.

Sounds like you have the closet in easy-access condition (I had the navy/black hole; you had the green/black hole). No amount of light could have any effect

I'll watch the video this evening.

BG

[HoosierB]

I'd say don't discount a deck plate if you want access behind the shower. The flange means you don't have to make a perfect cut, and they will not let water through (I'd vote for a screw in, not a press-in). Also, you have an even larger hole before you install the plate, if you need extra working room. And hey, you can get bag inserts for them so you could have a storage area between the walls

I found this hatch door on Amazon. About 14.5 x 10.5". I like that the screw holes are in the base flange and will be covered by the door. The plan is to have a rectangular mirror attached to the face of the door that can be removed if access is needed.
Good idea BG!

[Blue~Go]

One consideration with a larger rectangular hatch (and you probably already thought of this) is that you'll want to check the shower is flat/sturdy enough. A plastic large hatch like that might not be able to "warp" the shower to flatness otherwise, and then it would not close correctly. (I've only installed larger rectangular hatches that on pretty much perfectly flat surfaces.)

I was thinking of something like this: (Granted the screws show.) It's a Beckson screw in deck plate. But if your mirror covers it anyway?



They come in bronze for only about $200 more. Very nautical though.

Or ..... bronze porthole/mirror?

I'd never seen these before, but they are TH Marine "sure seal" deck plates. Screws are covered up by the lid.

Okay, the photo won't load for some reason, but it's called TH Marine Sure Seal. Sorry to make you Google.

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I'm used to the traditional look, so I think I prefer those. I'd likely use one of the Stow Aways and then hide things in there (Beckson Stow Away): (Spare roll of toilet paper? )

[HoosierB]

I was thinking of something like this: (Granted the screws show.) It's a Beckson screw in deck plate. But if your mirror covers it anyway?

I like the 8" Beckson. It fits more flush with the wall, and you're right, my mirror will cover it nicely. Should allow enough room for the access needed. Plus, it's about 1/3 the price of the hatch door!
Those marine products can become quite pricey!