Chinook RV

So... I just bought a 2000 Chinook. Seems to drive well, and I just got it home to the driveway. Next stop is to have it tuned up at the shop.

Then the fun will begin! You see, this Chinook has NO interior. Nothing. Actually, the hot water heater is still there, but I think that's it. Most all tanks/plumbing/wiring/etc. has been removed. I don't know the backstory, and will probably find out more as I start fully gutting this. The previous owner bought it gutted, and added a basic level of carpet/comfort. I'm assuming this suffered water damage in the past, and someone gutted it to "fix" it, but never finished up. So my project is going to be to convert this into a halfway-decent camper. I'm thinking fairly simple stove/sink/heat setup. Solar panel on the roof and maybe a 12v fridge cooler.

I should add that my current camper/RV is a 1998 E350 Ambulance, so I'v been making do with a non-traditional RV for awhile. The next phase of the ambo build was going to be to start getting serious about removing the ambulance interior and going more RV-build. BUT, I'm not a huge fan of the lower ~64" ceiling height inside. We've got a little baby in the mix now, so we're needing a little more room. I started looking around at shorter, 19-21' RVs, but wasn't really impressed by the size, condition, etc. Most RVs in my budget would need an interior update anyways, so...

I'm super glad to find this forum, I've already read a ton of great info. To that end; for future interior build, do I need to re-incorporate the rear shell "bulkheads" that the factory had on each side? I plan on building some kind of storage in, so perhaps that can be a new wall? This thing rattles going down the road and the walls flex, I'm sure they'll stiffen up once I add some furring strips and paneling, but should I plan on incorporating some more "foundation" level floor-to-ceiling structure?

Also interested in ideas on bolting in a third captain seat/bench that can carry a baby carrier.

Follow along as I try to save it from it's current state and make this 'nook into a cabin on wheels. Next steps are insurance and a trip to the shop for a full check up.

awesome project. Congratulations and good luck.

Looks like fun!

Nice that it's a Premier so you have rectangular windows... easier to fit curtains, walls, cabinets etc.

Yes, I think you'll want a couple of bulkheads near the rear to prevent flexing.

Hey, does it still have the bathroom? Or is it gone too?

Kev

Welcome eporter!

That should be a fun project. The shell is the best part of the Chinook, and you have that, so yay!

I've had mine deconstructed pretty far, and there are various "guts" photos in some threads, plus I have more if you have any specific questions. After trying a bunch of different layout mods (I'm Mockup Man ), I have mostly stuck with the original but not completely. As the Chinook was (successfully) marketed to Class A owners who were downsizing in later years but "didn't want to give anything up," it had (for my tastes - I'm sure it suits many people to a T) 10# of flour in a 5# sack. I tend to like a simpler, boondocking style rig, so I have removed a bunch of things such as the microwave, TV/VCR, wall telephone ( ), furnace, water heater, gimongous refrigerator, etc.

I added a more modern/robust electrical/charging system, changed the couch and cabinetry, etc. Work in progress, but I'm using it throughout -- and enjoying it.

On the topic of the walls/bulkheads: In some ways, the Chinook is a lot like a boat. Fiberglass "hull" with no framing, cored "deck" (roof), somewhat of a monococque construction. The way similar boats get their strength (because fiberglass is actually fairly floppy) is by incorporating coring and bulkheads. The structure wants to be held rigid by said bulkheads, which are generally tabbed (fiberglassed) to the hull (walls). No flex = good. Flex = stress.

So the Chinook is not entirely boat like in the way that the bulkheads are done. They are semi-attached to plywood strips that are attached to the walls, but not fully bonded like a boat would be. The bulkheads also partially do their job by being attached to the floor and overhead. This is all done by screws, basically (not as strong as glass tabs, but still works for our application).

The Premier model (which you have) is a little bit different than the Concourse (which I have) in a few places, but I believe it is basically the same. The main difference I have seen is that the long windows on each side are "stick framed" in the Premier, whereas in the Concourse there are huge sheets of plywood bonded to the walls (may be foam in later generations, but you and I basically have the same generation) and then holes are cut out of those sheets for the windows.

So most of the flat wood panels are MDF, but the two main walls -- one divides the shower from the kitchen sink area (you'll have to look at floorplans ), and one divides the refrigerator area from the stove area -- are plywood. These are important to the structure. The other walls and wallettes help some too, but not as much. I also feel that the upper cabinets help some because they somewhat triangulate the corner between roof and wall (they are firmly screwed to roof and wall).

A couple of other things to ponder/things Chinook took care of (after decades of experience building essentially the same layout)

1) My rig is almost perfectly balanced side to side (weight-wise).
2) Furnace and water heater exhaust come out at the non-operable ends of the windows.
3) Where the heaviest waste tanks are, the interior space tends to be light (shower/hallway).

It's not perfect, as the generator and furnace exhaust come out under the awning, but they only had so much space to work with, and it's not like you would "secretly" run the generator while you sat there (whereas something like water heater exhaust could seep into an open window without one thinking of it, if it were under one).

Okay, now on to your blank slate!

There are some photos on the forum showing a Chinook that was apparently built at the factory as a tour shuttle type thing. It had mostly seats, and some of the other systems were truncated or changed slightly. Later it was re-made into more of an RV, retaining some of the seats. The photos might be interesting.

You might consider adding something like Thinsulate behind the walls and especially the shower. The "Arctic Foam" insulation is good stuff, but the coverage can be thin/spotty. Something like Thinsulate seems like it would not put too much pressure on the relatively thin inner walls (I could see causing them to bulge if not somewhat careful).

Another thing to consider is access. My original Chinook kitchen cabinets were nicely done, but made access to systems underneath a bit tricky, due to things like rails between each drawer, etc. My new cabinets are/will be much more open (when drawers or doors removed) so that I can get to plumbing/wiring/etc.

The area behind the shower can get very cold and there are plumbing pipes there (do you have the shower still?. So that's something to consider. A lot of this I'm sure is familiar to you from your Ambo build.

If I can help with some details of cabinet construction or other stuff just say the word. Lots of other really creative and experienced folks here too. There are not so many gut/rebuilds, I think just because Chinook had it nice enough to start with that there isn't the inspiration that you'd have with a cr-ppier unit. But some of us like to customize anyway That's one reason I didn't buy the lovely, cherry-cabineted 2003 I looked at. Too nice to play with (for me)

Alright, I have to run for now - helping a friend with a project today.

BG

Oh, I meant to add that in the "Reference" section you will find the original Chinook manuals if you don't already have one. They may be helpful to you as they have pretty good diagrams of the original AC and DC electrical, supply plumbing, DWV plumbing, and more. Even if you don't plan to put everything back just as it was, it might be useful.

There is also a set of wall and roof plans for the 1999 Concourse. Some things will be a bit different on your Premier (window surrounds for sure), but I think some should be the same. Will give you an idea what's inside the walls and roof.

And if you browse through the forum, there are lots of "guts" photos and we always like to note different layouts or changes we see in ones that are listed for sale and that sort of thing.

So liberating - you can do anything!

Wow, thanks for the welcome and all the info. The rig's at the shop today, getting a used vehicle inspection. I'm hoping it comes back in good enough health. I'm imagining some $ in repairs, but hopefully there's nothing too major. I don't want to invest the time & money into this build and then find out it's got a major issue.

I'll take some more pics to show what I'm working with, but there's basically NOTHING left inside! No bathroom/shower/generator bulkhead/etc. I think all the tanks are removed from the bottom. They even took the awning off...?! There's probably a barn full of chinook stuff somewhere that got tossed when someone couldn't figure out what "random ol' RV" it went to...

I like the layouts I've seen so far in the "remodeling refrigerator and stove area" thread. Blue~Go can you post a new pic in there of what your layout ended up like?

I'm thinking we'll have a couch/bed in the standard area. Maybe a swivel captain's chair across from that, fold up table, maybe a dinette bench. Then it's probably a counter that runs to the back, with a cabinet/closet built for strength/structure in the corner. Similar idea on the other side, long counter and back corner closet/gear locker. Maybe even a hearth and a small woodstove?! I'll add some kind of insulation wherever possible. I might fur out the walls a little to add more insulation, and maybe insulate the floor under thin plywood with a rubber flooring? I was looking into heat/soundproofing a lot for the 7.3 turbodiesel in the ambo...

I really like the angled Concourse windows, but I agree that the squared Premier windows will make a build out easier.

I've been wondering how best to secure everything, I'm thinking bolting/screwing to the floor and I plan to leave the backs of cabinetry open for weight savings and access. Also I may leave some wire chases in the walls & around the perimeter of the roof. Wall panels will likely be held on with screws & trim washers for access. I think the overall look will be that of a little more rustic and utilitarian, Adventure 'Nook!

I'll look for that tour shuttle setup. In considering other vehicles for a mini RV, I looked at some airport shuttle type vans. Some of them still have a regular passenger door, but add the standard bi-fold bus door just aft. AND they often have a rear access door to a luggage area, or a rear/side wheelchair lift. I think an airport shuttle might be a better blank slate, but the Chinook looks so much better, and no doubt the fiberglass shell is better made.

More to come...

Here's an old welcome post I once made, with some links. I need to update it soon:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=516&p=3870#p3870

Also of course check out the Reference board section.

As for that custom Sport, look under Customized section on one of my Pinterest Chinook boards:

https://www.pinterest.com/kkadarling/ch ... il-wagons/

Oh darn. The subsections don't seem to work unless you're in the Pinterest app instead of a browser. Hmm. If you have the iPad Pinterest app, click the Open at the top of the browser page.

PS I recommend a Pinterest account for two things besides being able to search and view other boards easier: 1) as an easy spot to store your remodel progress, 2) set up a secret board and store photos of all your VIN, body, appliance, tank, motor, fuse boxes, you name it, labels and serial numbers and circuit diagrams, etc. This has been invaluable to me as a remote reference when needing parts and all I have is my smartphone with me.

For example, my remodeling log:

https://www.pinterest.com/kkadarling/ch ... v-remodel/

Kevin

eporter123 wrote: I'll take some more pics to show what I'm working with, but there's basically NOTHING left inside! No bathroom/shower/generator bulkhead/etc. I think all the tanks are removed from the bottom. They even took the awning off...?!

Don't you wonder what the original plan was when it was gutted ? I mean, even the tanks?

eporter123 wrote:There's probably a barn full of chinook stuff somewhere that got tossed when someone couldn't figure out what "random ol' RV" it went to...

eporter123 wrote:I like the layouts I've seen so far in the "remodeling refrigerator and stove area" thread. Blue~Go can you post a new pic in there of what your layout ended up like?

Well, mine ended up being a work in progress, much as I tried to avoid that. What I mean is, I hired a "real" cabinetmaker to do that part of it, since I'm not one, don't have a big shop, and wanted it to not take forever. Then he had a major cancer issue when we were partway through. So I have 80% of the new parts and pieces all done, but what we were doing was fitting them all before taking them back out and final finishing them, after which they went to a holding area until they were all ready. Until... stupid cancer.

So I ended up with a mostly gutted Chinook, and a cargo trailer full of some really nice pre-fitted and finished (but un-installed) cabinetry. That was fun. Well actually it was fun in a way, but just not what I had planned.

We had previously made a "mock up" interior to test concepts, so what I went home with was part of that, some of the original cabinetry put back, and then (because I had trips to go on, and that's the whole point) I built some temporary new upper cabinets at a boondock (because as mentioned, I wanted the stability factor). Funny thing is I still like my "temporary" interior better than the original one. It's just as strong, and the mockup upper cabinets are light maple, which I *vastly* prefer to the original dark oak.

While I had everything out, I made some changes to some of the wiring/plumbing/etc. Nothing really radical, but just tweaking it to my uses and modernizing a bit. I also put the cabinets back (even the temp. ones) without all the rails and etc. that made it so hard to get to the systems (guess you don't have to worry about those!).

It's very similar to the original, major layout wise. I did try the couch/bed over on the passenger side, since if I'm parked on a street the rig tends to lean that way -- and plus it's closer to the opening section of window on the Concourse -- but I didn't end up liking it ultimately. I felt it stuck out too far (whereas on the driver's side the shower already sticks out further). Instead I made it so the bed itself can be tilted up if the rig is slightly down on the passenger side (because I can live with a slight tilt from time-to-time when I'm up, but don't like falling out of bed. I took that idea from boats, where you can adjust "pipe berths" for the angle of heel.

On the "other side," I've tried a bunch of different things. Turns out I like it kind of flexible over there I guess

1) I started out with the club chairs and mini table.
2) Then tried just one club chair and mini table.
3) Then put in a small automobile seat that has arms and a head rest (still had the rotating and sliding forward and back ability).
4) Then tried a table I made.
5) Then I took all that out and had a long desk/credenza/counter thingie, with a small seat that would tuck under the middle (sort of like a long desk). I had a Helinox Sunset chair in the aisle and could face the door for lounging.
6) Then I went back to the forward chair (my version) and four feet of the long desk thingie.
7) Future...??? Recliner? Bowling alley? Fly tying bench? Bicycle shrine?

(I had removed the furnace earlier so I have that whole 6' to play with - I use a Wave 3.)

The kitchen sink area is/will be pretty similar to the original (it's got a little ell in the Concourse). For my new cabinets the main differences are that they will be 34" high (Concourse is lower than Premier as stock due to windowage), that there will be more drawers, and that they will all remove without rails so that I can access plumbing and electrical in the back.

The stove area is similar to stock except I removed that "limbo cooking" big microwave cabinet over the stove and my new (and also the temporary new) cabinets are just two long symmetrical cabinets on both sides. No separate box section over the stove, just a continuation of the main room cabinets.

In the refrigerator area I went with a shorter/shallower compressor refrigerator. The original projected into the already narrow entry hallway, and I don't need one that big (plus I wanted a compressor model vs. the absorption for a few reasons). There is a counter above it at around 46" that I use as my "getting ready to go out" or "set down when I come in" area. Plus there are some upper shelves for bathroom stuff.

Closet is basically the same, except for a couple of minor things like a shoe nook in the little area behind the generator box, and a similar nook above where the stock CO detector (bad location) and gen switch were.

eporter123 wrote:I'm thinking we'll have a couch/bed in the standard area. Maybe a swivel captain's chair across from that, fold up table, maybe a dinette bench. Then it's probably a counter that runs to the back, with a cabinet/closet built for strength/structure in the corner.

That all sounds good although I would suggest a full height bulkhead where the original was (was between stove and fridge). It can have a cut out so doesn't have to be the full slab (my new one has a window type cutout). The half wall between the stove and dining area may have some minor value as well in that way, but not as much as the full bulkhead.

eporter123 wrote:Similar idea on the other side, long counter and back corner closet/gear locker.

Same suggestion for the bulkhead where the shower and sink areas were divided. That one is about 3' deep as stock (other one is 2' deep).

eporter123 wrote: Maybe even a hearth and a small woodstove?!

Not a bad idea I have a Dickinson P9000 that I may add in that "other area" I mentioned above (gee, forgot to put that on the list).

eporter123 wrote: I'll add some kind of insulation wherever possible. I might fur out the walls a little to add more insulation,

You could, although I'd be inclined to keep them as-is depth-wise. The extra width (over a van) is one of the Chinook's charms, to my mind. There is already quite a bit of "air" space behind much of them (especially down lower where the body waves outward). But of course you'll see how you want it.

eporter123 wrote:... and maybe insulate the floor under thin plywood with a rubber flooring? I was looking into heat/soundproofing a lot for the 7.3 turbodiesel in the ambo...

I guess that depends on what you will have as flooring. Our era has a pretty thick plywood floor as stock, btw. Not saying that's super insulated or anything. I guess it depends on where you plan on wintering/using the Chinook.

I'm not a "diesel person" anyway, but even if I were... I cannot imagine wanting a 7.3 in my lap like it is in a van. The heat from the V-10 is enough already! (At least it's pretty quiet.) I helped my buddy insulate the doghouse on his V-10 E-450 and it did help quite a bit with the heat (we used a combination of modern sound/heat products).

eporter123 wrote:I really like the angled Concourse windows, but I agree that the squared Premier windows will make a build out easier.

I think either type of window has its charms, but just as a note, there is really nothing "built out" that has anything to do with the angled windows' angleiness on the Concourse. The walls just tuck behind the trim rings (same as on the rectangles), and none of the furniture touches the angles (the window treatment valances just run horizontally along level with the top, hung from the upper cabinets). That's not to say you couldn't build out along the windows though, depending on your plans.

eporter123 wrote: been wondering how best to secure everything, I'm thinking bolting/screwing to the floor and I plan to leave the backs of cabinetry open for weight savings and access.

The stock stuff is screwed into the floor via ~1" x 1" cleats at the bases and along the walls. It is open-backed. One note is that the wallettes that go over the wheelwells do not rest on them, but have a little foot section near the aisle that is attached to the floor. The couch (in the couch model) is framed in steel and bolted through the floor (because that's just the way it's designed plus it involves seat belts too). I think the bed in the two bed model was just wood framed and probably not bolted down (I have plans for how they built that one - nothing too exotic though). The Club seats ("not to be used in motion") are on swivels that are attached to 24" x 24" x ~12" box bases that were screwed to floors and walls (storage in them plus furnace in forward one).

eporter123 wrote:Also I may leave some wire chases in the walls & around the perimeter of the roof.

The stock way does use a wire chase of sorts. You can see how the outside edge of the roof dips down to make the side view of the Chinook lower and sportier? That leaves a little "jut out" at the back of the upper cabinets, and that is the stock wire chase up both sides. Bundles of wires in loom and P-clipped to the bottom edge of the ceiling fiberglass liner panel (which is carpeted where you can see it). That was behind a removable carpeted hardboard panel.

eporter123 wrote:Wall panels will likely be held on with screws & trim washers for access.

You may change this, but the original walls are mostly held in by the cabinetry and the window trim rings. There are a few wires behind the walls but mostly they are in accessible chases (stock).

eporter123 wrote: I think the overall look will be that of a little more rustic and utilitarian, Adventure 'Nook!

Not a thing wrong with that! I never much went in for "RV decor" myself.

BG

PS: I'll put in a vote for documenting here (or on your own website) vs. something such as Pinterest or Facebook. Not everyone belongs to those and... well... here we are.. Chinook forum!

BTW, you may not be planning to put your underneath tanks back (although they are pretty sweet, especially that 36 gallon grey tank!), but just FYI, the company who made the original tanks is still in business and can still make the tanks as of recently.

The company is Inca Plastics [sorry, I said Inca Tanks by mistake], and if you search that I think you should find where I and other members have posted the part numbers for those original tanks.

The inside potable water tank wasn't as "special" - basically you just need a rectangle that will fit under the couch - but the grey and black are a bit more "fitted" to the space. They are supported by steel tubing that doesn't look too complicated (going by memory), and likewise the DWV plumbing is fairly simple (diagrammed in the manual and I have a number of photos).

BG

This thread is giving me all kinds of ideas for radical remodeling