A Series Of Stupid Questions

[BoomBoom]

Okay, please don't make fun of me. First time RV owner. I have been using the search bar and answered most of my questions, but there are a few that I just can't figure out. I'm going to list them in order of stupidity. And, for reference, our Chinook is a 1995 Concourse on the E350.

1. What exactly should our Chinook be able to do when not connected to shore power? When we take it to an RV park and plug it in, everything works perfectly. When we run the generator, everything seems to work but the AC (which I know is normal). But when not plugged in and not running the generator nothing in the living area works. Is that normal? I had assumed that the deep cycle battery would run lights and water pump and hopefully refrigerator...

2. We have an AMP warning light on the dash - from my research I have found that probably means we need a new alternator. Does anyone (a) disagree with that assessment as the most likely cause or (b) have any experience with a particular brand and model of alternator that they would recommend?

3. Our ABS light is on. I bought a new ABS sensor that I am going to try installing tomorrow, but I wanted to know if anyone had any experience with the ABS light and how you might have resolved it.

4. This last one is bag of worms, I know. And it has also been covered extensively on the forum - but I'm a little lost with the sheer volume of different opinions. I want to replace the front end assembly to tighten up the drive. Can share a link of what exactly you would recommend? I'm not looking for off road performance or anything fancy, just a nice secure feeling on the road.

5. My wife just added, should we be keeping the refrigerator and freezer doors open when the RV is not in use? I know they tend to start to smell in a home if left closed... but are they different somehow?

Thanks in advance, I know these are really rookie questions, but that's where my wife and I are in this process.

Tim

[Jlfchinook]

1. Everything should work except 110 vol items when disconnected from shore power. All items should work with generator running including ac. If you have a good battery it should also supply power to run refrigerator, usually runs on gas when disconnected from shore.
2. Take a volt meter reading on engine battery, it should be 12.5 to 13 with engine off, start engine it should read 13.5 to 14.5 if alternator is working.
3. Can’t help you!
4. Same mine is a 2000
5. Leave doors open when not in use, keeps odors down, remember takes about 24 hour to cool down a hot refrigerator.

Hoe you enjoy your new to you Chinook, I also was a first time rv owner 40 years and 7 rv’s ago.

[Blue~Go]

J pretty much covered it. But to add a note on the fridge (presuming original 3-way absorption type):

- The "3-way" refrigerators use an enormous amount of power when running on 12 volts. (In fact newer absorption refrigerators are only 2-way, i.e. gas or 110 volt and this may be why.) Just so you know, because if you read about compressor DC refrigerators (different beast) you may not realize that yours will take at least 6 times the amps on DC. That's a huge DC load over time.

[chin_k]

With the solar, you should be able to get a hundred watt hours or more of electricity that you can use to run the lights for a few hours, etc,, but you will need to run the genset or get shore power if you do anything more than that. It is not meant to be a self-sufficient vehicle that let you live out in the wild for months.

The air conditioner and the microwave should work if you have shore or generator power. Are you saying the roof top AC does not work when you are on generator? It may take a minute or two for the transfer switch to kicks in and the compressor to run, but it should work. The lights and all the DC appliances such as fans and lights should all work.... As other said, the refrigerator will need to be on propane-mode, since the DC heater is going to drain down your battery very fast if you don't have your alternator or the generator running. However, the control board on the fridge will need 12 V DC to run.

As for the door of the refrigerator, I keep it open for a few days, and when everything in there is gone I usually wipe it down one more time, and let it get as dry as possible. Then I just let it close. The smell in there is due to moisture and moldy food, so if you keep it clean like a brand new frig, there is very little smell. Otherwise, keep it open.

[caconcourse]

There is an actual Dometic part available to hold the doors slightly open when not in use. They are expensive for what they are, but on the other hand, they work great and keep the fridge from getting moldy. They cost about $18-$20 each (you need two). I have to admit I bought some as a guilty pleasure, and I am glad I have them. Here are some links:

https://www.ebay.com/p/20017005835?iid=172797593308

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-38507810 ... B07CQ6L4G2

https://www.ebay.com/p/20017005835?iid=163910372523

The last one has a make offer button, so you may be able to work out a deal for two.

[Blue~Go]

Ah yes, the "Airing Position Card." I mean, that's what you would expect it to be called, right

They are slick - I got a pair back in 2014. One note that probably wouldn't matter to most people, but they will not hold when driving. (I had my fridge not in use awaiting the new fridge but was traveling.)

[red_land_baron]

As far as question #3, My ABS light also came on in the middle of Montana some time ago. The cruise control quit when the lamp came on. I took it to a Ford dealer and they found that the driveshaft sensor had failed. They replaced it (it was still under warranty) and I was on my way. I've also had a front wheel sensor fail. It could be one of these sensors.
The only stupid question is the one never asked!

RLB

[68camaro]

My two cents.....

1. I am starting my third year of owning my Chinook, 1st RV, and honestly this is first time I think I really understand how all the electrical and battery components work together and how to manage battery usage. I only do boonedocking so it took a lot of time with people here learning how to manage battery capacity and learning/replacing my systems to maximizing my off-grid capabilities. I can now go from Friday night to Sunday night without low voltage alarm waking me up in middle of night...haha. I hardly ever run generator unless super hot at lunch time.

My generator will run everything including A/C, microwave etc. Batteries will not run a/c, microwave or coffee maker (which I don't use anyway). Frig is three-way, but I found for me I plug in at home for 24 hours before leaving, then propane the rest of the time. I do not run frig off batteries.

4. As far as driveability, I have rebuilt front end with lift, but I really like the Fox Steering Stabilizer and Fox shocks, really tightened up steering and reduced sway. I HATED the stock brakes, I installed Powerstop brakes, I believe thats the brand, and am very happy with them. You could also look to convert front end to handle E-450 brakes if brakes are concern, I think most people are happy with their stock brakes though.

5. I don't keep refrig doors open when stored, and living in South you would think mold/odor would be a problem, but I have not had mold or smell problem in frig, never did.

I've asked a 100+ rookie questions here and people were always quick to help. Also learned a lot thru trial and error, mostly error though. I use my rig in extreme temps throughout the year and am always warm or cool. Recently I forced myself to actually understand how the FantasticFan works and best way to use it to cool the rig in hot temps. I ignored the fan the first two years and can't believe how well it works when used properly.

[Scott]

Recently I forced myself to actually understand how the FantasticFan works and best way to use it to cool the rig in hot temps. I ignored the fan the first two years and can't believe how well it works when used properly.

That's cool.
Care to share what you've learned?

I plan to get one here shortly but I've never used one. Blow in at night, out in the day?

[BoomBoom]

68camaro, thanks for the reply. My wife and I just had our first Massachusetts inspection, and failed (as expected) but now we have a nice punch list of things we need to do, nothing too major. We do have a bunch of electrical issues, and this is my weakest department. When you set up your rig for boondocking, did you add a solar kit? We think we are going to go that route and I've been wondering if I can take the two batteries in the engine bay and the current solar panel on the roof and just use them to start the engine and keep the starter battery well charged - then do a completely separate solar and battery system in the living space that runs all of those needs. Is that crazy? I think it might be crazy. But just crazy enough to work?!