Chinook RV

Hello forum members.
This is my first post. Been observing and reading from the sidelines. Got my long lusted after 2003 chinook concourse about a year ago.

Pondering how to lift the rear end just an inch or two. My unit appears to be all stock with original shocks, MORryde rubber leaf, and standard Michelin 22/75R16 tires. Only 13K miles.

As you all know the rear kwikee steps and black / grey water drains are the low point in the system. I know how to approach a steep driveway or dip in the road to minimize the rear end dragging ...But it just seems a matter of time before a tear off the low hanging dump valve.
Is it possible my 17 year old rig even though low miles is sagging a bit low due to age of the MORryde rubbers? Shocks ? leaf springs ?

I have read the posts about lifting the whole chinook. All new leaf springs, fox shocks, lift blocks, weldtech Baja grocery getter lift etc.. etc.

I am just looking to raise that rear end one to two inches. Seems like a reasonable solution to do a 1 inch or 2 inch lift block. Quick and inexpensive. But after reading the different posts it seems it is never that simple.

I know many of you have gone down this road ..... what would you recommend ?

Thanks for your comments in advance.
Doug Allison
Southern California.

Welcome to the forum Doug.
The morryde rubber "bags" have a tendency to tear, but I don't know what the cause is. I'd have a good look at them at various parking situations (i.e. try to flex them with a slight ditch/curb). If the look good, then check if there are different bolt holes. I think they all came with 3 sets of mounting bolt holes. At least 1 forum member reported being able to gain an inch or so of rear clearance by simply changing which mounting holes used on the morryde bag assembly. It can be difficult to jack up the rear of the motorhome.. and difficult to change the bolt locations, but that member was able to DIY this project. I would have probably found a shop and expected to pay $100-200.
For just an inch of lift, the shocks should be ok as is.. there is a chance of blowing one out on extreme flex, but I doubt it.

That is correct. Make sure the MorRyde are in good shape. It is pretty obvious if one is broken, but you have to see one that is not broken to know what it should look like. I brought my rig not knowing that one side of it was broken, because I don't know what they were. As Manitou said, there are three mounting position for the MorRyde. It can be changed, but you need a large C-clamp or a hydraulic ram to replace or adjust the MorRyde. I were able to do it myself on both side, but the driver side is much easier to do because the exhaust is not in the way. For people with right tool, it can be done in about an hour for both sides if you just want to adjust the positions, but if they do not have the experience, it can take hours.

Manitou and chin-k thanks for your response.

I did not know about the 3 different holes for the MORryde. Mine is in the center position. So it looks like I could gain a bit of clearance by going to the higher position. THANKS!
I will also take a good look at those MORryde bushings to make sure they are fully intact.

Manitou and chin-k ....

IF you have the opportunity...in order to compare rig ride height ...would you be willing to pull a measurement from the flat bottom side of the T handle dump valve housing.? Or any other reference point?
That way I can compare my rear end ride height to yours... my rig is at a rv storage yard to I need to go down and pull that measurement ....but I do think that would be interesting as a comparison.
I am configured with a fully stock rig with stock 215/75r16 Michelin tires. I will get a measurement sometime early this week.
Thanks again for your input.

Ps Chin-K I am in Rancho Palos verdes.... where are you in SoCal? I would love to look at your rig if in the area.
Thanks Doug

Hi Doug. Hope this photo helps.

Don't expect huge gains from the moryde adjustment. If you really want to gain height, new springs are the way to go.

my old rig was converted to 4x4 and blocks were placed in the rear suspension.. so not much good of a reference for you.

Scott and manitou thanks for the input.

Scott I can see your drain valve low point is way higher.

Your photo shows about 14” at the low point.
I am closer to 10” plus or minus at the low point.

Imagine when I am fully loaded ! too low for my comfort and that is why I want to make some changes.
I would like to get those rear electric steps and tank drains another 2” higher.
I will take an exact measurement on level ground tomorrow and post my findings.

Scott are you stock or lifted a bit?

Thanks again for the valuable input.
Doug

PS Scott i see that you are from Santa Cruz.
I grew up there and still have family up there.
Visit all the time.
I would like to see your setup on your Chinook.
Doug

Doug, did you notice that Scott's drain valve itself is positioned half an inch or less from the fiberglass above it? From your pictures it looks like yours hangs down 2 or 3 inches, so that is where some of the difference is.

Hi Doug. I should have mentioned that my rig is not stock. My apologies. The suspension and tire profile are stock, but that's about it. I've removed a lot of weight. Also, a 1994 Premier like mine (with zero options) is vastly different than a loaded '03 Concourse. Further, I don't have moryde, and I have the 9 leaf spring pack. There are a lot of differences going on here, so it's probably not useful for us to compare our relative ride heights. Plus what Bob said.

I constantly fret about knocking out the poo valve when I'm off-road, so I know where you're coming from.


In my reply, I was more focussed on the opinion that if you really want to boost your tail end, just get new springs. With the moryde, I can't say what that would entail. Blocks work for sure, but I think you're looking for more than a couple inches of lift? Lifting the rear is pretty straightforward. The front requires pro-level fabrication unless you just do the springs for an inch or two.

Yep, I'm based in Santa Cruz but I'm not around a whole bunch. Send me a PM and we can try to coordinate. Always fun to look at another Chinook....

Cheers

Bob and Scott
Thanks for pointing that out regarding Scott’s rig. I hadn’t noticed that !
I will start with moving the MORryde bolts to the lowest set of holes (to raise the rig). Maybe I’ll get a 1/2 inch or so movement
Every little bit helps.

Do you guys think I could get away with a 1” or 2” block at the axle to raise the rear?

Or is it recommended to go with a larger leaf pack. Do I not run the risk of a stiffer ride with a larger leaf pack ?

Thanks for your input.
Doug