Chinook RV

Thanks again, Bob.
I'm thinking of duplicating your setup, even the remote monitor location.
What type of a 30 amp power inlet receptacle did you use in place of the cable access hatch?

In case anyone wants to see, here's a link to the "mouse hole door" thread. About half way down on page 1 I posted some photos showing the area under the sink in my "separate doors for each utility on the side of the rig" era Concourse.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=898&hilit=mouse+hole

I am installing this on mine:
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Square-P ... B000SMWIIC
I won't buy it off Amazon, however. It is cheaper elsewhere.


If you don't need the cover, you can get even cheaper ones like one of the followings:
https://www.lockingpowercords.com/categ ... nlets.aspx



I like Blue's smart plug alternative, but I like the availability of the twist lock.

Would like to again throw in a good word for the Hughes Autoformer, now with surge protector and wiring diagnostics.

https://www.amazon.com/Hughes-Autoforme ... B06W55ZKB6
An autoformer is a transformer with multiple taps, that boosts the voltage if it goes low enough (below about 105) to harm appliances like the roof aur conditioner. Very helpful in parks that brownout with too many users, or even on a home 20A line like my remote garage.

When my roof AC compressor kicks in, I can sometimes watch the incoming voltage drop from 120 down to 105 for a split second before the autoformer kicks in and boosts it back to around 113-115, safely above motor killing level. (It used to stay at 105.)

I’m sure it will add to the AC’s longevity. I got the autoformer after blowing the start caps last summer. Starts and runs much smoother now. Higher voltage makes it draw fewer amps as well.

Although usually placed (under a bucket in rain) between the power pedestal and RV, many people permanently install theirs internally. That’s what I plan to do too.

Kev

HoosierB, my receptacle is very similar to chin_k's with the picture above. I, too, like the twist to lock it on. I just picked up mine at an RV shop in Tulsa, OK, so I don't really know the brand.

Note that the one downside of having the separate power cord is that with it plugged in to the new receptacle you can't close the outer compartment door like you can with the pull-out cord. At least with my cord, the head of the cord is too large too fit with the compartment door closed. Not a big deal, but I have heard of people actually stealing power cords from an RV while the owners are away hiking or whatever.

Kev, I'll have to take a look at the Autoformer, sounds interesting.

Bob

chin_k: Interesting...as I have both of your picks on my Amazon Wish List too!

kdarling: The Autoformer is still on my list, but I have concerns with using rain buckets and remote viewing of diagnostics. Wasn't aware it could be installed internally (hardwired?).
I did see where the Autoformer can be used in line with the PI EMS surge protector to protect it (pedestal–EMS–Autoformer–RV).

Bob: Thanks for the heads-up about not be able to close the compartment door. That is a concern for me.

updated edit:
Found this on another forum...
"Hughes tells you in their documentation that hard wiring is not allowed and they will void the warranty if you open one up to do so.
The installation instructions also tell you that they can only be installed in well ventilated outside compartments which really don't exist on most motorhomes.
Other members have had the internally installed Autoformer overheat when the fail safes failed so I am going by those first hand accounts from the past about overheating".

HoosierB, well, people always say great minds think alike!

kdarling, regarding the fact that the compressor draws lower amp with the autotransformer... it is definitely why it is better for the compressor, but it is not going to save you any electricity. The autotransformer will draw a higher current that it puts out as it increase the voltage.

Yep, I know it doesn’t save electricity, but it does save my roof AC

As for interior installation, well a coupla things. First, I bought my autoformer used off eBay for about $200. Well worth it and I’m not worried about warranty.

However, I don’t plan to open it either. Instead, I’m simply going to put it in the shore power cord storage bay. I’m also going to cut the stock power cord and separate it into a plug and socket combo... a long pedestal cord, and a short coach side.

That way if I wish, the autoformer can plug into the long pedestal cord, amd then the coach can plug into the autoformer.

OR the coach can plug directly into the long pedestal cord and bypass the autoformer if I ever remove it.

Based on Blue~Go's suggestion to look into articles by RC on MarineHowTo.com, I'm convinced... and will go with the SmartPlug 30 amp kit for my inlet and plug retrofit.
The "Smart Plug" article is well worth reading.

The photos of the good-old Marinco style are pretty convincing, aren't they? And the thing is, I don't think it's just talk. I have seen many shore power plugs with "burnt" connections (luckily most caught before a major fire) and although obviously being around saltwater makes things worse, I've seen the issue on freshwater boats and RV's too. Especially if I spent a fair bit of time on shorepower, I'd choose the Smart Plug.

I don't remember if I mentioned this or not previously, but as you'll see you can either buy a Smartplug that's already put together (cord and molded end put together at the factory) or you can get just an end that you can put on any cord. My buddy went this route at first but then later bought the molded cord and it's just a much better setup. Perhaps RC mentions this - I think he might - but I've seen it in real life and I'd buy the one-piece "factory" cord, even though I like to DIY in general.

I think you'll find the Smart Plug very satisfying in use. It just radiates heft and quality.