Chinook RV

Good perspective on towing versus not at different times. This has been a discussion between my husband (Gabbi on this forum) and me. Our goal in 2-3 years is to sell the house and go full-time, so bringing a car will be a necessity since we anticipate taking life more slowly and staying in one place for a time to explor. Until then, we will be taking some longer trips as my schedule allows, and shorter ones; the shorter trips will not necessitate the toad.

Interesting discussion points about trying to match up the hitch receiver height and toad height for the various components. When we had the truck camper and lived in NJ, i had a welder friend who created components for my truck to meet needs for that. I may need to locate a welder here in SC to do the same!

For now, I am hoping the RV repair shop we use for the Chinook can also give us guidance and install the baseplate on the Fiat. We do want one that allows us to remove the visible components when not in use. One tow bar system I saw that looks intriguiging is one that allows the tow bar tp fold against the Chinook when not is use. In other words, you do not need to remove the tow bar and store it if you are not towing. Some downsides? I have no idea of the quality (can’t remember brand right now; I think I found it on etrailer); no idea if it will fold into place since that we have the back steps in the way. I am also assuming a tow bar is heavy and difficult to remove when not in use...

Thanks again,
Lee-Ann

lhalbert wrote: May 24th, 2020, 9:33 am One tow bar system I saw that looks intriguiging is one that allows the tow bar tp fold against the Chinook when not is use. In other words, you do not need to remove the tow bar and store it if you are not towing.

This is basically the way they all are now (minus some earlier holdouts, such as the Stowmaster). It's a no-brainer when you have a big RV with a side door -- you never notice it back there and never need to remove it (they are somewhat heavy but mostly awkward to take in and out as the "beak" tends to droop and you have to slot it into the receiver; it jams if you are not holding it straight.

I started out by trying a Stowmaster All-Terrain. This stays on the car at all times so I could have kept my rear step 100% as stock. I even went to the trouble of having custom, "transition" brackets made so I could use it with the Blue Ox baseplate that was already on the car. But personally, I found I hated all that claptrap on the front of the car all the time. It stuck out, it rattled... it had to go.

So I did my trial/return/trial and found that the Roadmaster Sterling motorhome-mounted bar lined up just right. I sprung for the slightly lighter Sterling over the heavier-but-same-design Falcon anticipating that I would remove it between RV moves so I could flip my upper step down. I bought a duffel bag and figured I'd just drop it into that and store it under the RV between moves.

As it turns out I have mostly just put up with it in place, keeping my upper step flipped up and using a step stool. I prefer the step though. With two of you you might remove/replace it more often (one to lift; one to guide beak). I did for the first summer just remove the lower step (just a couple bolts), and that made the upper step a nicer height but since then I have kept it on.

With the Sterling folded and swung toward the driver's side (you can buy a tidy cover that fits on it when stowed), it's pretty much out of the way, but you still have to keep the lower step flipped up (or removed).

I just took a look to see if the aft-mounted spare tire might cause a conflict (mine is mounted on the front now). It may or may not. If you are standing in the doorway of the Chinook looking down at the stowed Sterling it's something like a couple of inches aft of the upright that supports the steps.