Smart Solenoid Question 2001 Destiny

[General Snafu]

I'm not sure about the "run" circuit -- I'm not super sharp on the Ford/Chevy stock wiring (like in the ignition). My original Surepower wasn't connected to that at all (as you can see below in the 9.4 diagram).

Your ignition switch has four positions, "accessory", "off", "on/run" and "start" If your radio is on when you start the vehicle, it will momentarily shut off until the engine is running. That is done deliberately to remove any accessories from the starting circuit so you have max capacity available to start the engine.

When the key returns to the "on/run" position, the radio and any other accessories that were on will resume because power is now available at the "on/run" terminal. By connecting my existing solenoid to that "run"circuit, I would not automatically have power to the control terminal of the solenoid until the engine was actually running. This would avoid using house batteries for boost when it wasn't needed. It would also only automatically parallel the batteries after the engine was running and thus charge the house batteries. It would still leave the option to manually use the overhead "boost" switch if needed for starting. When the key was turned off, the solenoid would disengage and remove any drain from the the chassis battery.

But I thought your solenoid was not working anyway?

What I had tried to explain was,someone removed the smart solenoid from this vehicle and simply replaced it with a 200 Amp continuous duty solenoid. This allowed you to parallel via the overhead "boost" switch but, eliminated the ability to charge house batteries from the alternator. I suppose you could still charge the house bank, if you didn't mind always holding down the "boost" switch while the engine was running.

I'll see if I can add diagram 9.4 here, but you should be able to see it in higher resolution from the 2000 manual in the reference section, because I think that section has higher limits on upload sizes. I put red and green lines (arbitrary colors) on the wires in question.

I had that wiring diagram sitting on top of my pile at the time I came back and started reading your reply. I'd really like to avoid just adding another switch such as the one that comes with the Blue Sea if it's possible to utilize the switches already in the overhead console.

I appreciate all of the responses from those who posted back. At this time, I'm not ready to tackle any major redo of the system other than to replace the flooded batteries which are toast with AGM and get the batteries charging properly. Obviously the replacement batteries will wait until the charging circuit is corrected.

Thanks Blue~Go for taking the time to address my issue. I truly appreciate your time.

[Blue~Go]

Okay, I see what you mean. One thing is that a device such as the 7622 will usually not have the batteries combined when you start anyway, I don't think. Here is why I say that. These things are actually basically just relays (but "smart" relays). It opens (dis-combine) when either battery gets to 12.75 volts, and combines when it sees 13 volts for two minutes (this typically only happens when charging).

So, let's say your rig has been either sitting for a few days, or you have been camping in it using the "house" power. At that point your house bank is very likely to be under 12.76 volts, hence the two banks will be un-combined. When the voltage sank below 12.76 volts, the relay opened and ever since then your battery banks have not been combined (hence why you can camp and drain your house bank but still start your rig when it's time to leave). When the relay sees the higher voltage (13v) that accompanies charging, for two minutes, then it will open and let the banks combine. But not instantly. So I don't think they would be combined when you are starting (that's what you were thinking about.... right?).

You can force combine them (which is basically what you are doing when you hit the "self jump start" button).

On the other hand, then why have the start isolation option? I think this is because it is conceivable that the battery banks could be combined when you go to start (say you have solar panels and they have the house bank up to 13.0). But my guess is that this would not be harmful to anything but the most sensitive navigation type electronics. I don't have the start isolation hooked up on my boat and still haven't had any issue with even the nav electronics. But that's not to say it's a bad idea to hook it up, but just that it's considered optional.

Blue Sea talks about it here:

https://www.bluesea.com/support/article ... e_Starting

And they explain the basics of the ACR (automatic relay) here:

https://www.bluesea.com/support/article ... _Explained

I'm not sure if you can use the overhead stock switch with the 7622. Not because I doubt you can, but just because I'm not sure. It would seem like you might, because when you are switching a relay the switch is not handling much power (that's the point of the relay, basically a little switch asking something else to do the heavy lifting). Maybe we could look at the schematic and figure it out. Also, Blue Sea's tech support is really helpful and you get right to a real human (after pressing #2, which I apparently have memorized )

Sorry if I'm either "answering" something you already knew, or not answering your question. I've been doing another project today, so maybe my comprehension is not quite up to par.

[General Snafu]

Also, Blue Sea's tech support is really helpful and you get right to a real human (after pressing #2, which I apparently have memorized

Great suggestion. However, they must be trying to avoid direct calls as their tech support number is nowhere to be found at their website. The only number I found was 800-222-7617. That number takes you to ASE Supply, who is also the distributor for the Sure Power 1315-100 or 1315-200.

[Blue~Go]

Try 360.738.8230. That's the Bellingham number on their website. Bellingham is their original location and is where I typically call. Hopefully that hasn't gone by the wayside.