A Series Of Stupid Questions

[chin_k]

What year is your rig, BoomBoom? Most of our rig were configured from the factory with chassis battery and two coach batteries connected via a battery isolator solenoid under the hood that connects the chassis with the coach system. I don't see why you want to have two batteries under the hood just for starting the engine, since the isolator solenoid lets us jump start the starter with a push of a button in the driver seat. Unless you want to do a different battery chemistry or voltage, then it may be more simple to have just one starter battery, and the rest of the batteries for the coach and connect them with a solenoid.

BTW, I really feel it is better to separate the question into different thread if we going to discuss this. It is simpler to search for topics later if we organize it better. It is not like Facebook or Yahoo where everything branched out like a tree, and very difficult to read about a specific topic....

[Blue~Go]

Given that your year had a single house battery under the hood, I think you ARE barking up the right tree if you want a durable system that you can use off-grid. If you were going power post to power post (nothing wrong with that either), then maybe not worth it.

I don't know why you would need to maintain the second battery under the hood at all though. One Group 65 is capable of starting our gas engines (anyone had any issues? I haven't.) I would just eliminate that battery.

So then you'd be talking about setting up from scratch in the coach, and that's not a bad thing -- because the original 1998 (or whatever) systems are fairly outdated now, small wire was used, etc. So I mean it's not like you are missing some huge advantage by not having the later house system to start with (at least IMO).

I agree that if you want to pursue this here, it would be good to start a new thread just for this. The more information you can supply (if you know it) the better. Because there is no one best system; there is only the best system for a specific use case. The more specific your use case the more pinpointed your system can be; the more diverse the more scenarios you need to cover. 68Camaro is a great example: He has a specific use case and we were able to design a reasonably simple system that works really well for that use case.

Maybe you don't know how you will use your rig yet (but maybe you do). So tell us what you can. Also, are you the kind of person who wants to learn how, buy tools, and do it yourself? Ignore it and hire others? Cheapskate? Everything should be totally proper? Whatever you can get away with? Tell us how you tend to approach things (if you want to). If you have "musts," what are they? (Some things are harder than others to run off the grid.)

BG

[68camaro]

When you set up your rig for boondocking, did you add a solar kit? We think we are going to go that route and I've been wondering if I can take the two batteries in the engine bay and the current solar panel on the roof and just use them to start the engine and keep the starter battery well charged - then do a completely separate solar and battery system in the living space that runs all of those needs. Is that crazy? I think it might be crazy. But just crazy enough to work?!

Because there is no one best system; there is only the best system for a specific use case. The more specific your use case the more pinpointed your system can be; the more diverse the more scenarios you need to cover. 68Camaro is a great example: He has a specific use case and we were able to design a reasonably simple system that works really well for that use case.

Maybe you don't know how you will use your rig yet (but maybe you do). So tell us what you can. Also, are you the kind of person who wants to learn how, buy tools, and do it yourself? Ignore it and hire others? Cheapskate? Everything should be totally proper? Whatever you can get away with? Tell us how you tend to approach things (if you want to). If you have "musts," what are they? (Some things are harder than others to run off the grid.)

As Blu said my system was designed for specific purpose and Blue, Chin and many others were instrumental in getting it set up the for my needs and constraints. I did not upgrade solar due to simple fact my rig spends its life under heavy tree canopy except when driving, and when driving the alternator recharges the coach batteries so I saw no need to spend the money on upgraded solar....and trust me, I wanted to spend the money..LOL

Let me also weight in on Blue's question about do you plan to do repairs/upgrades yourself or farm out? When I bought my rig I had no interest in turning a wrench on it, I am at time in life I have no interest in working on vehicles, even my 68camaro where I have 100's of hours into I do very little anymore and would rather pay someone for the occasional issue...ex. master cylinder went, took somewhere to fix. Too hot in south now to fix plus you get too dirty....plus too lazy.

However, with the Chinook, I am now trying to do everything I can myself. I found it very frustrating to deal with RV shops, the wait, shoddy workmanship, and expensive. Recently I changed oil and tuned up generator, easy things to do but not what I planned. Even the electrician I hired to install 30AMP breaker box in garage messed it up and fried my RV's powerbox as soon as plugged in.

I'll repeat what other have said, might be better to start new thread, especially for electrical/solar. This way it will be dedicated to help designing a system that works perfectly for you and spouse's needs.

[68camaro]

Recently I forced myself to actually understand how the FantasticFan works and best way to use it to cool the rig in hot temps. I ignored the fan the first two years and can't believe how well it works when used properly.

That's cool.
Care to share what you've learned?

I plan to get one here shortly but I've never used one. Blow in at night, out in the day?

Scott, once I learned what all the controls did, I found on hot humid nights I like to open the side windows 6" or so and have fan draw air out thru the roof. This creates a chimney effect and keeps air moving even though air hot. I adjust the speed depending on temp and humidity. When super hot I supplement with a small marine fan blowing across me. I usually end up shutting marine fan off at some point in the night. Even though I boonedock in remote areas I don't like running generator since there could be tent campers or other stealth boonedockers in earshot.

When temps are moderate I have Fan drawing air into rig to cool it down a bit If I need. I still don't trust rain sensor yet, maybe because its almost 20 years old, I am sure it works but a failure letting water in would stink.

[Scott]

Scott, once I learned what all the controls did, I found on hot humid nights I like to open the side windows 6" or so and have fan draw air out thru the roof. This creates a chimney effect and keeps air moving even though air hot. I adjust the speed depending on temp and humidity. When super hot I supplement with a small marine fan blowing across me. I usually end up shutting marine fan off at some point in the night. Even though I boonedock in remote areas I don't like running generator since there could be tent campers or other stealth boonedockers in earshot.

When temps are moderate I have Fan drawing air into rig to cool it down a bit If I need. I still don't trust rain sensor yet, maybe because its almost 20 years old, I am sure it works but a failure letting water in would stink.

Great! Thanks for the info. Sounds like a nice strategy.

Thank you for the courtesy of avoiding your generator. They can be a real buzz kill for the neighbors.

You're right. Marine fans are surprisingly affective and we all should have at least one. Mine draw 3.5 watts each. Peanuts!

[Blue~Go]

If you are buying a new Fantastic vent, note that the rain sensor doesn't work the same way it used to. IIRC it used to close the lid during rain then re-open it, but now it just stays closed after the first closure and never re-opens.

Personally, although I do like the function of these fans, two things annoy me:
1) They are kinda chintzy, but the price isn't.
2) They put certain options only with certain fans but they never seem to be the combo I want (hence I end up futzing to get what I want).

Here is an example of #2: Fantastic has a super deluxe fan with all the options and a remote (and you can ONLY run the fan with the remote), and that fan has like a 12-speed PWM controlled motor, so the low speed is very low and draws little power (desirable). But if you don't want a super deluxe fan, maybe want to just reach up and open or close it, don't need a motor to open and close lid, then you get only the 3-speed rheostat controlled fan, on which low speed is still pretty fast and sucks quite a bit of power.

So take for example the bathroom Chinook fan. I don't want to have to use a remote to control it, because it's right there! Also they no longer use RF remotes but now use infrared (line of sight), so you can't have the advantage with the remote of being able to control the bathroom fan from elsewhere in the rig.

I know it probably sounds like I'm nitpicking, but it's just annoying how they "bundle" the options, at least to me.

I ended up ordering a PWM controller from eBay and when I get around to it, plan to try installing it to use with my more basic Fantastic Fan so I can have the best of both worlds for my taste.

(BTW, the Max fans have some nice options too, depending on your desires. I stick with Fantastic because I like their optional "double insulated" clear lids with no blocking "hood" over the vent.)

68: I join Scott in thanking you for considering the peace and quiet of other campers (even if you can't see them to know they are there). One of my regrets is that I basically can no longer go to those little Forest Service primitive campgrounds I used to enjoy. They are now a cacophony of generators, and impossible to enjoy. If only everyone were as considerate as you!

And I'm like you in that I'd be happy to just pay people to do most of the work on my Chinook, EXCEPT good luck with that. Sometimes you just can't find anyone to do a quality job. Hence I often use that first money to instead buy the tools and learn how to do it myself.

[chin_k]

So take for example the bathroom Chinook fan. I don't want to have to use a remote to control it, because it's right there! Also they no longer use RF remotes but now use infrared (line of sight), so you can't have the advantage with the remote of being able to control the bathroom fan from elsewhere in the rig.

That is too bad with the IR-LOS, since my wife would love to be able to turn the fan on in the bathroom if I forget to keep it on for a little while after I am done with my "business meetings." For some reason, no one dear to open the door.

But seriously, I really think I want to have the PWM mod on my fan. It is adjustable, but the low setting is still way too loud and draw too much power. I assume it is the controller, and I don't need to replace the fan motor.

[Blue~Go]

At least on the good-old Fantastics with the (IIRC) knob that has three speeds, I believe that's what controls it. A buddy did fit a PWM controller and it worked. I do have to add a caveat because he had muffed up the wiring somehow and so made it only go one way (i.e. in but not out). I'm pretty sure that was a completely separate issue though, and a PWM controller will control the fan speed.

BTW, he got one and then crammed it into the vent unit. I found one that has its own knob and was thinking of figuring out how to mount it some other way. I have not gone down this path myself yet, but have only purchased a couple of controllers to potentially try.

First I have to decide which fan and where though! I still have the original Heng vent in the bathroom (minus the fan and light ring, and plus a full-sized screen), and then in the "living room" I put in a plain Fantastic vent that is just a round hole, no fan at all. It's nice for looking out of, and actually I like that you get a lot of breeze through it *without* a fan running. Ironically on the other ones, the fan kinda blocks a non-amplified breeze.

So, I thought I might put the one with the fan in the bathroom, and leave the "static" one in the living room. Hasn't made it to the top of the list yet though.

[chin_k]

At least on the good-old Fantastics with the (IIRC) knob that has three speeds, I believe that's what controls it. A buddy did fit a PWM controller and it worked. I do have to add a caveat because he had muffed up the wiring somehow and so made it only go one way (i.e. in but not out). I'm pretty sure that was a completely separate issue though, and a PWM controller will control the fan speed.

I am completely guess here, but maybe he put the voltage reversing switch before the PWM, and the PWM don't care which polarity the control are, and just spin the motor in one direction?

[Blue~Go]

That sounds plausible. I remember him saying that after all the work to cram the PWM in there, he realized he had made a mistake but couldn't be bothered to change it. So it only worked one way (in or out, I forget which).

I haven't even looked into the wiring yet (since at the moment I just have my static vent in), but think I may just not try to fit it in there. What I don't know yet is can I just put it somewhere else, and how much wiring is involved (or, rather, WHICH wiring do I need to interrupt).