Chinook RV

Hello from a former Nutmegger here!

I think Blue is thinking about the amount of current for starting the engine if you need to use the coach batteries to boost start your engine. The Surepower was underpower at 200A (1315 spec I read) due to the small wire used in Chinook. Ideally, you need 2 AWG if the run is more than 10 feet. For the SI ACR, it does not have the capability to do boost start anyway, so 120A is more than enough for charging via the alternator, assume that not all the charge is going thru the ACR, since the alternator is like 130A or something like that.

If you want least amount of change, you maybe able to get the original Surepower. Check out eBay/Amazon or post a wanted ad on this forum, for example.

Surepower 1315 comes in both 100 and 200 amp. Was the original 100 amp? If so, how did Chinook think the boost start would work? I am not opposed to installing the blue sea 7622 and just leaving the wiring as is for now. Just not sure if the wiring for the 7622 is similar to the original I'd not use the remote switch as the manual would be fine for me. Just trying to decide what to purchase for the repair.
Thank you for the help.

100str8 wrote: April 11th, 2019, 6:25 am Surepower 1315 comes in both 100 and 200 amp. Was the original 100 amp? If so, how did Chinook think the boost start would work? I am not opposed to installing the blue sea 7622 and just leaving the wiring as is for now. Just not sure if the wiring for the 7622 is similar to the original I'd not use the remote switch as the manual would be fine for me. Just trying to decide what to purchase for the repair.
Thank you for the help.

The easiest repair is to simply replace the 1315, as the mounting and wiring are all in place from the factory. It's a well known part in use by thousands of people, and is generally reliable.

Thanks to all for the advice.

Replaced battery separator, working great. Now onto the solar controller replacement...one project at a time.