Battery Recommendations and Low Voltage Disconnect Question

[pushx]

This is my current battery, dated May 2017, bought with the vehicle a few months after:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Le ... /164242687

I've been suspicious of this battery, but also my ancient(1989 original) converter board. I attempted to charge from shore power and couldn't get above 11.3v. After 2 hours of driving I got it to 12.6v. I ran a small fan overnight off the dc power and checked it before work. It was howling like a DC fan with low voltage and I found the voltage at the socket to be 5.7v, and 7v at the battery. So pretty sure this battery matches the poor reviews. If anyone can recommend a quality house battery, please post.

I'm also curious as to why the Low Voltage Disconnect didn't trigger? I don't even know where it is located, what it looks like. Should it have triggered and do I need one of these as well? The rocker switch in the cab that controls the 'Use/Store' functionality does seem to disable if it detects a low voltage.

Thanks!

[kdarling]

Low Voltage Disconnect didn't come in Chinooks until about 1996 or so.

[b6fischer]

I have had great success with the Duracell group 31 AGM batteries. $180 at Sams Club. Truly maintenance free. After 4+ years of weekend use (80,000 miles of trips) they are still holding 12.70+ volts.

[pushx]

I have had great success with the Duracell group 31 AGM batteries. $180 at Sams Club. Truly maintenance free. After 4+ years of weekend use (80,000 miles of trips) they are still holding 12.70+ volts.

I'll look into these, thanks!

[pushx]

Low Voltage Disconnect didn't come in Chinooks until about 1996 or so.

Wow, this explains much! Looks like I may want to pick one up, or at least get a voltage meter.

[Blue~Go]

Sadly (at least last time I checked), those Group 31 Sam's Club AGM's weren't sold in the west at all. I think I figured Pensacola was the closest (sic) to Arizona.

On the battery/charger/system/etc. there are a number of ways to go, from "low" to "high." I think a lot of it depends on your use case(s) and your overall bent.

What I mean is, for example, these two extremes (of course they can occur in different combinations; these are almost caricatures):

1) Drive from power post to power post (or quick stops for lunch with generator running) and figure there's no reason to spend any more money than just buying a new set of cheap batteries every year.

2) Boondock most of the time, hate the noise of the generator, and like your systems to be "proper" and long-lasting. Don't mind being "your own power company" and taking responsibility for your systems.

There are so many different ways to go, that maybe if you said what your use-case is, what your natural bent is, and maybe what your budget is (in general).... then we could give some meaningful suggestions?

[pushx]

Well I'm mainly looking for a solid battery that other people have found to work for them. I do boondock and use the system without it being plugged in to shore power. Looking around it seems the Duracell and the Optima batteries are decent and I probably don't want anything cheaper than that. I'm also trying to determine if my size 27 battery was undersized and its normal to have a size 31 or not. I don't think this is a major issue, and the size 27 should be ok.

Here's what I'm currently looking at, (sam's club doesn't carry that battery apparently, nor am i a member).
https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/m ... li27magmdc

I've bought this power converter to save my battery from more issues:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O ... UTF8&psc=1

I'm possibly going to install this dual voltage meter to keep an eye on the voltage as well:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9ZPJLX/re ... 3dc51fc8a8

I don't know if the low voltage disconnect is worth it at this point. Here's an LVD that might be a good fit? I know little about LVDs. Or a lot of this

https://www.amazon.com/Galley-Power-LLC ... disconnect

[Scott]

My under-hood house battery was a group 27 marine type (basically a cranking battery). It didn't hold squat, so it had no chance of supporting our boondocking (electric fridge). It was small, and it was fed by the alternator whenever the engine was running. So I removed it. A new one might have worked if it was larger, and if it was treated nicely, and if I had a propane fridge.

I basically rearranged everything, so I may be off track, but ... I installed two US 2200 XC2 6V flooded golf batteries. So far, they've been awesome (used nearly continuously for over two years with a few times dipping into the 50% range). A pair provides 232AH @ 12V, and cost about $160 each. They're big, you'd need 2, and they're 63lbs each (massive plates), so you'd obviously need to find a new place to put them. Two drawbacks are that they need venting and watering. Mine need water a few times a year, but with an irrigation system, it's done in less than five minutes without the need to remove caps.

For a rig with an under-hood house battery, switching to this type of bank (or AGMs inside) is not a small project, but it's worth considering if you want to expand. We don't use shore power, so it was a must have. I chose these batteries for various reasons, most of which probably wouldn't apply to most folks, but just thought I'd mention it. I think I can go about 3 days without sun, and stay comfortably above 50% SOC.The main draw is the electric fridge; the fridge/inverter together draw 50 watts. Off topic, sorry.

I wouldn't bother with an LVD because I wouldn't trust it to do its job, plus it's another component to install and buy. By occasionally checking a meter, you'll get familiar with your power needs. In other words, YOU should be the LVD, so definitely get a meter. Mine's at eye level by the back door, so it's impossible for me not to check voltage when I come and go.

Also, check your house power positive lead. Mine was routed right past the driver's side exhaust manifold; the loom and some of the insulation were melted, and the original breaker had failed closed (a horrible combination). I noticed the breaker failure after I removed it and the plastic cover fell off. Corroded contact stuck closed. Not to be an alarmist, but the factory breakers on my rig were garbage AND old, so consider replacing them (cheap insurance).

[pushx]

My under-hood house battery was a group 27 marine type (basically a cranking battery). It didn't hold squat, so it had no chance of supporting our boondocking (electric fridge). It was small, and it was fed by the alternator whenever the engine was running. So I removed it. A new one might have worked if it was larger, and if it was treated nicely, and if I had a propane fridge.

I basically rearranged everything, so I may be off track, but ... I installed two US 2200 XC2 6V flooded golf batteries. So far, they've been awesome (used nearly continuously for over two years with a few times dipping into the 50% range). A pair provides 232AH @ 12V, and cost about $160 each. They're big, you'd need 2, and they're 63lbs each (massive plates), so you'd obviously need to find a new place to put them. Two drawbacks are that they need venting and watering. Mine need water a few times a year, but with an irrigation system, it's done in less than five minutes without the need to remove caps.

For a rig with an under-hood house battery, switching to this type of bank (or AGMs inside) is not a small project, but it's worth considering if you want to expand. We don't use shore power, so it was a must have. I chose these batteries for various reasons, most of which probably wouldn't apply to most folks, but just thought I'd mention it. I think I can go about 3 days without sun, and stay comfortably above 50% SOC.The main draw is the electric fridge; the fridge/inverter together draw 50 watts. Off topic, sorry.

I wouldn't bother with an LVD because I wouldn't trust it to do its job, plus it's another component to install and buy. By occasionally checking a meter, you'll get familiar with your power needs. In other words, YOU should be the LVD, so definitely get a meter. Mine's at eye level by the back door, so it's impossible for me not to check voltage when I come and go.

Also, check your house power positive lead. Mine was routed right past the driver's side exhaust manifold; the loom and some of the insulation were melted, and the original breaker had failed closed (a horrible combination). I noticed the breaker failure after I removed it and the plastic cover fell off. Corroded contact stuck closed. Not to be an alarmist, but the factory breakers on my rig were garbage AND old, so consider replacing them (cheap insurance).

Cool, interesting setup. Thanks for sharing! 232AH is a ton of juice, and probably more than I need. We have a propane fridge and boy that thing sips the gas, its awesome. I'd imagine you'd need a bit of juice to run the heater on a pure electric fridge. So you're running a solar system? Did you remove your generator and put the batteries/etc. into the compartment?

So I had my muffler bust open and melt the generator's positive lead once...bumping up randomly to the frame. Took me forever to realize it too, not exactly where you'd look. I was wondering what the hell was going on with my electrical. I still have issues with the generator's electrical, but that's a project for another day. Plus the muffler/catalytic convert runs next to the propane tank...yikes. I'll check out house power positive lead, I haven't actually followed where it goes yet. I'm not sure if its normal to lose a volt going from the house battery to the 12v dc outlet in the house. I'll deal with that after the battery/converter is upgraded.

I'm thinking about picking up this battery: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/r ... li27magmdc

I called a local RV place and they had an Interstate srm27 battery for $120 but I'm afraid of getting a junk battery again.

[Scott]

I'd imagine you'd need a bit of juice to run the heater on a pure electric fridge.

You're right. For a 3 way fridge, 12V is very inefficient. Propane is what they're designed for, really. I have a compressor fridge, so there's no heating element. It's different.

So you're running a solar system?

Correct. Silent, passive, clean power, and it's kind to the batteries. For boondocking, it's a moral imperative.

Did you remove your generator and put the batteries/etc. into the compartment?

Correct. But that's not required. You can stuff a few AGMs into the locker under the water heater. Also, there are several places under the rig that could support a bank, but fabrication would be required. It's only conceptual at this point, but eventually I hope to mount the bank to the frame rail under the generator bay.

So I had my muffler bust open and melt the generator's positive lead once...bumping up randomly to the frame.

You'll want to fix that. It's probably on a self-resetting thermal breaker, probably 80 amp.

Plus the muffler/catalytic convert runs next to the propane tank...yikes.

I wouldn't worry about that ...

I'll check out house power positive lead, I haven't actually followed where it goes yet.

From undernieth, look up at the exhaust manifold on the left. If yours is anything like mine, you'll see an 8g red wire (in a loom) come down past the engine to the frame rail. If anything looks melted, fix it and move it away from the exhaust as much as you can. Yours might be totally different, however.

I'm not sure if its normal to lose a volt going from the house battery to the 12v dc outlet in the house. I'll deal with that after the battery/converter is upgraded.

Not sure which outlet you mean, but that's probably a very long run and a small wire, and at low voltage, the drop is not surprising.

I called a local RV place and they had an Interstate srm27 battery for $120 but I'm afraid of getting a junk battery again.

Lead acid batteries are not created equally, even though they operate on basically the same principle. It's ancient technology, but probably the best rout economically for most of us (currently). First key is to get a true deep cycle. Second, get a trusted brand. Third, take care of it.

Our rigs are long in the tooth, and much of the electrics are pretty dated, so it takes careful consideration to determine what to change, what to leave alone, and what to delete. Mostly determined by how you camp, your budget, and project practicality.

I think his name was Alan. A couple years ago, he posted in this forum about how he upgraded his bank without doing anything too radical. Long time ago, but probably worth a search.