Wave 6 Heater Install

[Skillet]

Got the Wave 6 a couple days ago and I'm thinking about installation. How difficult is it to run a hose line from the propane tank to the inside of the rig? My cousin is a plumber and can work with propane but he's never done any work to a rv, but he's used to getting into small places. Can I tap into the line going to the stove-top so there's no crawling under the Chinook?

[Blue~Go]

You sure bought the Wave 6 at the right time. I had put one in my Amazon cart at the same time as you, when it was at the great price of around $229. Next thing you know, it was $350 and climbing. Even Camping World was cheaper! (At that point, you know your prices are too high ) Needless to say, I'll be sticking with the Wave 3 for the time being.

I don't find propane hard to work with - especially since our rigs (and the Wave) are all flare fittings. No tape or dope needed (or wanted). Just tighten well and then check for leaks. Of course it demands respect (and being comfortable with it), but I find that being slow and careful, I can do a good job.

Since I had removed my furnace, I used that stub for hooking up the hose for the Wave. I added a 90º shut off valve between the end of the line and the heater hose. But I have read about numerous installs wherein the people Tee'd off another (existing/in-use) line. On boats this would never be done, because each line has to come all the way from the propane locker in one long piece; but from what I have read, connections (joints) are okay in RV's as long as they are not hidden in walls, etc. Of course it's still better (I think) to have as many of the connections as possible outside; but you can't avoid some inside anyway since the lines do have to connect to the appliances.

I was looking at where the stove and refrigerator lines come off the main line under the rig (underneath, just under the rear of the stove area). I think you could remove one of the lines under there and add a T (so instead of two lines you'd have three), if you wanted to to keep the connection outside (but then you would have an additional hole in the floor). Otherwise, I'd think just make the connection someplace where you can easily get in to tighten it, and where you are easily able to see/test it. Where are you going to put the Wave?

BTW, I found the existing flare nuts to take a 13/16" wrench (of course that was the one size I didn't have). From reading, these are the better (longer/forged) type.

Interesting side note about doing your own propane work vs. having a professional do it. Of course there are many very-professional professionals, who know more about it than I ever will -- but a friend had his Wave 3 installed at Camping World, because he had never done it and wanted a pro to tackle it. Well. We took a close look at the installation (because we were doing another project in the area of the heater) and they made so many careless mistakes. 1) Heater about 1/2" above floor which is not to specification. 2) 90º bend in copper tubing looked like they did it over their knee - it was flattened to the point of almost being pinched off. 3) Where copper came through a wooden panelled wall, it was just through a splintered, tight hole in the wood - no chafe protection, etc. 4) Where they Tee'd off the stove line there was no support and it was just bouncing around (and inaccessible behind the cooking stove). 5) Short/small flare nuts were used (3/4" wrench vs. 13/16"). Just a sloppy job all around. We reinstalled it (including making flares with a flaring tool) and did a much better job. Of course we actually cared...

BG

PS: Someone suggested I use the "ribbed" flexible (often yellow) segmented metal gas tubing. I checked into that and it is NOT recommended for areas subject to vibration (RV). Rather, type K or L "soft) copper tubing are recommended. On boats the common thing to use nowadays is high quality hose with fittings put on by machines (i.e. you have them made up or buy pre-made ones) but they are relatively expensive.

PPS: I'm not a pro by any stretch of the imagination, I've just read various standards and am familiar with boat guidelines (propane safety is a big deal on boats because propane sinks and a boat is basically like a big bowl - if sinks down into the bilge it can easily kaboom. Obviously on an RV the tank and many of the connections are outside under the rig.

PPS: I believe there is a small additional regulator on the stove line right in the burner area. So you would want to make sure not to tap in after that (I think it lowers the pressure slightly more than the normal regulator out at the tank).

[kdarling]

Perfect timing. I was about to ask how everyone kept the bathroom warm (just open the door?), and what the preferred method of heating was while driving (dash heat enough? or run the furnace?).

The Wave heater sounds great. Where would you mount it in the various Chinook models?

Thanks!
Kev

[Blue~Go]

Perfect timing. I was about to ask how everyone kept the bathroom warm (just open the door?), and what the preferred method of heating was while driving (dash heat enough? or run the furnace?).

I'm sure I don't represent everyone (never have, LOL), but I removed the bathroom door. Not for reasons of heat (although obviously it helps), but because I wanted the elbow room and light by the coach door. Whew, what a difference! I can set things on the bathroom floor that I'm taking in or out (you know that mound of shopping bags you have to leap over in the hallway...), and the hallway is light and bright. Not to mention taking about 60# off the tail end (man, that door!).

Since the bathroom in my rig doesn't "face" the living room, it's still relatively private; plus there is a curtain if desired, which can either go across the bathroom door, or across the hallway just behind the kitchen drawers (for a larger private "dressing room").

The bathroom gets cold partially because there is an auditorium-like space (or at least it seems like it) behind it that is not insulated. I'm planning to put something in there at some point.

While driving I just run the dash heat (V-10 certainly pumps out the heat), but then I haven't driven in really cold weather (only maybe down to 25º or so). I did grow up in the cold though, so I know what it's like when even the draft through the door handles is too much. I'd think a cab blanket (separating cab from coach) would be handy, although there is the coach plumbing to consider if it is truly cold out and the plumbing is not winterized. I routinely block off the cab when camped - it's full of glass and uninsulated metal, so gets cold/hot (whichever you don't want )

The Wave heater sounds great. Where would you mount it in the various Chinook models?

I can only speak for my Club Lounge Concourse. And even then I have not found the perfect spot. Since the Wave is radiant, you ideally want it pointing at you. Only of course "you" can be in different locations. For now I have mine on legs so I can move it around, but contenders for mounting location are keep in on legs, mount to front of oven door (hinged to wing out forward if desired), mount where aft club chair used to be (possibly on drawer slides to pull out), mount below entry closet (warm bathroom!). If I had a Premier that spot where the kitchen counter ell "isn't" sure looks good.

Actually it would be great between the front (driver/passenger) seats pointing aft, but I block off the cab in heating weather, and if I put it just aft of that it's too close to blankets/bedding.

All that said, a friend mentioned something this summer that I had not thought of: With radiant heat you don't necessarily want the heater on the floor (like you normally do because of heat rising). Not that physics has changed, but since you are warming objects (preferably yourself), it can be better to have it up higher (think of radiant heaters you see in public). Since then I tried putting mine on the table (just as an experiment) and on a box in the vicinity of the aft club chair/cooking stove and it did keep me much warmer. So now all of a sudden I'm thinking of new spots. Like gee, what if I hung it from the center/forward area near the center cupboard door, then stowed it in that cabinet when not in use? Or...?

[Skillet]

Thanks for the advice, your input is always appreciated. For placement, I'm really not sure where I'm going to place it. I drop my dinette down to bed-form which I use for my pup's sleeping area. I sleep on the couch comfortably. I was thinking of putting it on my stove, pointed towards the couch or on the sink pointing at the couch. I haven't taken it out of the box yet to see what kind of room I'm working with or how it will be tilted. There will definitely be extra hose so I can move it around.

What I do for items I'm interested in on Amazon (and don't need right away), is add it to my cart. Then I click on "save for later". I've built up over a 100 items, large and small. Several times a day prices will change so when you log back in and click on your cart, it'll show you all the items which have had price changes. If you really, really, have to know when it hits a certain low price-point that you'll jump on (and jump on quick before it goes up again), go to: http://camelcamelcamel.com/ Set up an account and it will notify you when it gets to or drops below a price you select. It'll even show you a year's worth of history of how low and how high it's been in the past. Why does Amazon change it prices so much?: http://www.businessinsider.com/amazon-p ... ing-2014-8

[Blue~Go]

I had the Wave 6 in my "save for later." Oops, guess I should have ordered it when it was so crazy cheap! Oh well, it's warm enough now that the Wave 3 is fine, and I'll at least wait until the 6 price gets back down out of the stratosphere. I hesitated because I have another idea, but ..... we'll see.

If you're not sure, I'd say make an easel stand for the 6. That's superior to the legs they sell (you can stand it closer to things at the back, plus fold it to stow), and will allow you to move it around and try things out. 'Course the legs are ready made. With pups, and knowing that they work well higher up, I'd be tempted to put it above "fur singeing" height. The dinette layout does make things a tiny bit more crowded in the "living room" (but great dog sleigh!).

If you want to see all kinds of clever hinging mounts, you can google things like Wave heater install truck camper. I got lots of ideas from them (including hinges and the drawer slide one, which was in a pop-up camper).

Some people put the hose on a quick release (sort of like an air hose QR), but on mine I can stow it still hooked up, so haven't gone that route (yet).

[kdarling]

I'm sure I don't represent everyone (never have, LOL), but I removed the bathroom door. Not for reasons of heat (although obviously it helps), but because I wanted the elbow room and light by the coach door.

This made me go look to see if a sliding frost glass door would fit. That would keep the door from blocking the hallway, let in lots more light to the bath, but still keep the privacy. Alas, it doesn't look like there's enough sliding room.

The bathroom gets cold partially because there is an auditorium-like space (or at least it seems like it) behind it that is not insulated. I'm planning to put something in there at some point.

Yeah, I've thought about putting some kind of heater in the rear storage compartment, with a downward forced air vent ported into the bathroom.

While driving I just run the dash heat (V-10 certainly pumps out the heat), but then I haven't driven in really cold weather (only maybe down to 25º or so).

I've also looked into installing a rear engine-driven A/C and/or heat unit for use while driving down the road. Heck, it was an option on vans and especially on these heavy duty ambulance chassis setups. Aftermarket ones are not too expensive:

https://www.discountvantruck.com/rvvanr ... ensers.htm

The downside is that you have to run A/C lines and/or heater hose lines towards the rear. I'm a little wary of having such a long potential failure point for the radiator.

Yet... you know what? When I was very young, I had a pretty metallic sky blue 1961 Cadillac hearse. And it had a rear heater powered by the engine's coolant. I guess it was for whomever was riding in back with the deceased in the jumpseat. (I put a mattress and stereo in the back, of course. It was like a luxury station wagon version of a hippie van. )

Anyway, I loved using that heater at drive-in movies on cold date nights. I even installed a duplicate starter switch on a panel over a rear wheel, so I could crank the engine from the rear "party" section, without having to crawl back over the divider window to the front seat.

The Wave heater sounds great. Where would you mount it in the various Chinook models?

... contenders for mounting location are keep in on legs, mount to front of oven door (hinged to wing out forward if desired), mount where aft club chair used to be (possibly on drawer slides to pull out), mount below entry closet (warm bathroom!).

My wife sometimes asks about putting an RV fake fireplace where the oven would go.

All that said, a friend mentioned something this summer that I had not thought of: With radiant heat you don't necessarily want the heater on the floor (like you normally do because of heat rising).

I wonder, can the radiant ones be mounted horizontally on the ceiling, and radiant downward?

[Skillet]

"I wonder, can the radiant ones be mounted horizontally on the ceiling, and radiant downward?"

Found this on a rv forum from 2 years ago about a guy mounting one: "After finishing the horizontal installation I fired up the Wave 6 to verify that it operated correctly. IT TURNS OUT, HOWEVER, THAT EVEN THOUGH CAMCO SAYS THE HEATER CAN BE MOUNTED HORIZONTALLY, IT WILL ACTUALLY ONLY STAY LIGHTED AND RUNNING ON THE HIGH SETTING. SELECTING EITHER THE MEDIUM OR LOW SETTINGS (ONLY AFTER THE HEATER HAS BEEN RUNNING ON HIGH FOR AT LEAST 10 MINUTES) CAUSES THE HEATER TO GO OFF, BECAUSE IN THE HORIZONTAL POSITION THE UNIT CANNOT GENERATE ENOUGH HEAT IN THOSE SETTINGS TO KEEP THE THERMOCOUPLE HOT ENOUGH TO KEEP THE GAS VALVE OPEN. I contacted Camco Technical Services and discussed this with them. They (through Amazon) replaced my heater with a new one. The new heater, mounted horizontally, also could not stay lit on medium or low settings. Camco had no ready explanation or solution, but were going to test some Wave 6 heaters “on the bench” to see if they could duplicate the problem."

[Blue~Go]

I had read that too (because I was thinking of mounting the 6 horizontally), and thought the fellow sounded very thorough and believable. And yet on the other hand, I've seen/read about other horizontal Wave 6 installations, and they haven't mentioned a problem. So who knows?

I don't think it could probably be mounted "face down" though. They only mention "right side up" or "sideways with the control knob facing up."

[jeanie19]

Hello, I'd like to install a Wave heater but as others have mentioned, there's no obvious perfect location in the Concourse dinette floorplan. Has anyone explored mounting a hinged panel at floor level on the back of the rear dinette and mounting the heater on that? It could stay flat to heat the rear, swing 90 degrees to heat the galley or swing 180 degrees to heat the front. The spacing is tight and the 18" height would impede the forward under-cooktop cabinet door unless the heater is swung toward the side or front. From the sub-floor systems floorplan, the gas line runs nearly below that location, could an installer tap into that for propane? The Wave-6 price has dropped to $268 on Amazon, but would like a plan before I grab it. Thanks,