Concourse Entry Door guts
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
If you have the same door, the door is latching onto a metal bolt with a hex end. It is adjustable, and you maybe able to move it further in to get the door closer. I never completely loosen the screws, afraid that there is a loose nut on the inside, so you may want to just loosen the screws just enough to get the bolt to be adjusted.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
Thanks, Chin- Has yours moved when you loosened the screws? You are talking about the allen head ones, correct? I loosened them a decent amount, then tapped the hex end bolt pretty hard with a piece of wood driven by a hammer, as to not mar it. No budgey. I tried to turn the hex head with a wrench, and stopped for fear of messing something up if it's not made to be turned. Not sure what that would have done anyway. The thing just doesn't look adjustable, which is why I posted. What do you think I'm missing? What I didn't do is try to move it the opposite way to see if it does move, but is adjusted all the way in.chin_k wrote: May 11th, 2020, 3:11 pm If you have the same door, the door is latching onto a metal bolt with a hex end. It is adjustable, and you maybe able to move it further in to get the door closer. I never completely loosen the screws, afraid that there is a loose nut on the inside, so you may want to just loosen the screws just enough to get the bolt to be adjusted.
I did find a loose nut inside, however. My wife REALLY likes the Chinook.
2001 Premier aka "Anookie"
Dallas, TX area
Dallas, TX area
Re: Concourse Entry Door guts
You need to loosen the metal bolt too. Think of it as a big hex nut. I think it should move if you turn it just one turn or less.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
