Hi, I just had a 30amp breaker and outlet installed in my garage. When I went to plug rig shorepower in I heard a semi-loud pop at rig, and upon checking, everything looks good but shore power will not power rig.
Coach batteries work,
lights etc work
Batteries charge from engine battery when engine on
Correct amp draw when engine or just batteries being used.
However, when shore power plugged in it will not charge or power anything. I looked at fuses and all seem OK, charge button over drivers seat green.
Any idea??? Is there a fuse hidden I am not seeing?
Pop! now shore power not charging
Pop! now shore power not charging
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Do you have AC power when the generator is running? If so, then the 30 Amp circuit breaker and everything after it are okay. So skip step 1 and go to step 2 below.
1) First I'd open the distribution panel and, if you have one, place probes from a Volt-Ohm Meter on the 30 Amp main circuit breaker and see if you're getting incoming AC voltage. Do be aware that a circuit breaker can look good and still not be, they do wear out. I once had an old breaker going to my barn, and after twice having an electrician come out (this was years ago before I became more handy via the Internet!), I finally forced him to replace the breaker, even though he kept saying it was fine... no more problems. It hadn't been quite dead, just getting there and being flaky in the mean time.
2) If you're not getting voltage on the wires coming in to the 30 Amp main breaker, then you could have blown the Transfer Switch. That is between the AC and Generator, and the AC distribution panel (it decides whether the generator is running, and if it is, a relay cuts in to use power from it, instead of shore power, which has a relay that cuts out). In my 2000 Concourse the transfer switch is a metal box that is screwed in to the back of the distribution panel and you have to take things apart to get inside it.
3) Also, make sure there is nothing between the incoming shore power cable and the Transfer Switch. Something like the PI EMS-HW30C Surge/Electrical Protector I added - it is like a big fuse used to clean and protect from shore power (and can blow out, like a fuse, except you have to replace it, rather than reset it).
1) First I'd open the distribution panel and, if you have one, place probes from a Volt-Ohm Meter on the 30 Amp main circuit breaker and see if you're getting incoming AC voltage. Do be aware that a circuit breaker can look good and still not be, they do wear out. I once had an old breaker going to my barn, and after twice having an electrician come out (this was years ago before I became more handy via the Internet!), I finally forced him to replace the breaker, even though he kept saying it was fine... no more problems. It hadn't been quite dead, just getting there and being flaky in the mean time.
2) If you're not getting voltage on the wires coming in to the 30 Amp main breaker, then you could have blown the Transfer Switch. That is between the AC and Generator, and the AC distribution panel (it decides whether the generator is running, and if it is, a relay cuts in to use power from it, instead of shore power, which has a relay that cuts out). In my 2000 Concourse the transfer switch is a metal box that is screwed in to the back of the distribution panel and you have to take things apart to get inside it.
3) Also, make sure there is nothing between the incoming shore power cable and the Transfer Switch. Something like the PI EMS-HW30C Surge/Electrical Protector I added - it is like a big fuse used to clean and protect from shore power (and can blow out, like a fuse, except you have to replace it, rather than reset it).
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Bob, thanks for info. When I run generator I am not getting any power to outlets and it is not charging batteries.
My "brown box" is very new with all new breakers, I do believe that is what I heard pop and could be problem, I'll check out tomorrow with voltage meter.
Any idea why my newly installed 30amp RV Power Outlet box would cause new breaker to pop?
Is the main 30 amp breaker the one in the picture to the far right that says "main"?
My "brown box" is very new with all new breakers, I do believe that is what I heard pop and could be problem, I'll check out tomorrow with voltage meter.
Any idea why my newly installed 30amp RV Power Outlet box would cause new breaker to pop?
Is the main 30 amp breaker the one in the picture to the far right that says "main"?
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Yes, the far right labelled 30 Amp Main is the breaker that is in front of all the others (if that one goes, nothing gets past it and no power anywhere).
The 15 Amp breaker on the left labelled 'REC' looks like it might be off (its not as high up as the other 3). Try pulling all the breakers down and off, and then back up, and make sure you can feel them click into position on the up side (they should be firm with no wiggle).
Being as it is new, even if it looks like a breaker went bad, it might be a good idea to open it up further and check the connections to the breakers. If one of them is not secure enough, you could get arcing - look for any blackened area around each wire and at the connections to each breaker. Tug on the wires firmly to make sure they don't wiggle or start to pull out of the connection.
Since this is the first time connecting to the new shore 30 amp breaker at the house, check that you have that wired correctly - plug in one of those cheap plugs with lights that tell you if a connection is good or not (e.g. Gardner Bender 120 VAC Outlet Tester). You might need a Shore connection to 20 amp plug adapter. I use this every time before plugging into any new shore power connection, to be safe.
How new is this panel - was this the first time using it, or was it installed and working before you plugged it in to the new shore power at your house? If brand new, then I'd also:
Carefully check each AC wire and all the breakers, and make sure each incoming ground goes to the ground bus and each negative goes to the negative bus - they are Not interchangeable! One cross connection could do it.
Make sure the ground wire between the panel and the vehicle frame is attached. Without that, the incoming AC ground might not be at the same potential voltage as the frame, and that could cause safety problems (though I don't think it could blow a breaker).
Good luck,
Bob
The 15 Amp breaker on the left labelled 'REC' looks like it might be off (its not as high up as the other 3). Try pulling all the breakers down and off, and then back up, and make sure you can feel them click into position on the up side (they should be firm with no wiggle).
Being as it is new, even if it looks like a breaker went bad, it might be a good idea to open it up further and check the connections to the breakers. If one of them is not secure enough, you could get arcing - look for any blackened area around each wire and at the connections to each breaker. Tug on the wires firmly to make sure they don't wiggle or start to pull out of the connection.
Since this is the first time connecting to the new shore 30 amp breaker at the house, check that you have that wired correctly - plug in one of those cheap plugs with lights that tell you if a connection is good or not (e.g. Gardner Bender 120 VAC Outlet Tester). You might need a Shore connection to 20 amp plug adapter. I use this every time before plugging into any new shore power connection, to be safe.
How new is this panel - was this the first time using it, or was it installed and working before you plugged it in to the new shore power at your house? If brand new, then I'd also:
Carefully check each AC wire and all the breakers, and make sure each incoming ground goes to the ground bus and each negative goes to the negative bus - they are Not interchangeable! One cross connection could do it.
Make sure the ground wire between the panel and the vehicle frame is attached. Without that, the incoming AC ground might not be at the same potential voltage as the frame, and that could cause safety problems (though I don't think it could blow a breaker).
Good luck,
Bob
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Thank Bob but I have the worst case scenario.....electrician hooked up my 30amp breaker to 240 not 110/125. When I plugged it in it fried the power center and transfer switch, both new last year. He did not know it needed to be hooked up to 110 and I didn't tell him. I assumed he knew but that was big mistake.
Electrician felt responsible and I felt some as well so I said I would buy new equipment ($300) if he would install and he was happy to agree. Unfortunately I will be in upstate NY next week boonedocking for 3-4 days so I will have to rely on engine battery to recharge coach batteries as generator will not charge either and temps will be well below freezing, especially at night.
Lesson learned.....
Electrician felt responsible and I felt some as well so I said I would buy new equipment ($300) if he would install and he was happy to agree. Unfortunately I will be in upstate NY next week boonedocking for 3-4 days so I will have to rely on engine battery to recharge coach batteries as generator will not charge either and temps will be well below freezing, especially at night.
Lesson learned.....
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Ouch! Sorry, that's a tough one to take. Hope you can get it taken care of soon.
IMO an electrician should have known a dedicated 30A circuit for a RV would be 110.
IMO an electrician should have known a dedicated 30A circuit for a RV would be 110.
Steve aka SMan
2004 Premier V10
2004 Premier V10
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Ah man. Bummer. I'm with Steve: Putting a TT30 on dual breakers is a pretty big mistake. Is the new outlet in a sub box with a breaker? Or relying on the breakers in your main? And those didn't trip? It makes sense but also pretty scary. Happy to hear the damage is only a few hundred bucks.
Thank you for posting this. I'm willing to bet that it's not the first time it has happened, but it needs to be more widely publicized.
Thank you for posting this. I'm willing to bet that it's not the first time it has happened, but it needs to be more widely publicized.
1994 Premier
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
Sub-box was installed below main panel, he used two 30amp breakers placed in main panel. He rewired panel today to correct 110/125 and will come back with single 30 amp breaker to replace the double.
When I called vendor I bought this from he says it happens all the time, actual common mistake because unless electrician knows RV’s he wouldn’t really have this knowledge. I didn’t know this so I assumed they knew.
To avoid future accidents I will invest in a good surge protector.
When I called vendor I bought this from he says it happens all the time, actual common mistake because unless electrician knows RV’s he wouldn’t really have this knowledge. I didn’t know this so I assumed they knew.
To avoid future accidents I will invest in a good surge protector.
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
I'm with Scott, bummers, and double bummers. Sounds like a reasonable split for fixing it, your new equipment and his time.
I do like my PI EMS-HW30C Surge/Electrical Protector, I bought the hard-wired and installed it in-line between the incoming shore cable and the transfer switch. I got the extra little panel that scrolls the status, and like seeing it showing me amps being used and voltage coming in (and error-code if something happens). It has cut me off from a campsite once during a storm, and a couple times when there was a loose connection at the shore box. It does check for 220 and shuts down instantly with an error code, no damage to it or anything else.
I do like my PI EMS-HW30C Surge/Electrical Protector, I bought the hard-wired and installed it in-line between the incoming shore cable and the transfer switch. I got the extra little panel that scrolls the status, and like seeing it showing me amps being used and voltage coming in (and error-code if something happens). It has cut me off from a campsite once during a storm, and a couple times when there was a loose connection at the shore box. It does check for 220 and shuts down instantly with an error code, no damage to it or anything else.
Re: Pop! now shore power not charging
I ordered the portable EMS, while not cheap I hope it prevents this in future. There is a big and expensive learning curve going from never having an RV to having your first one.BobW9 wrote: December 7th, 2019, 6:19 pm I do like my PI EMS-HW30C Surge/Electrical Protector, I bought the hard-wired and installed it in-line between the incoming shore cable and the transfer switch.
BTW - the "30AMP RV Power/Electical Box" which says just that, does not say anywhere on the box or outlet that it is for 110/125.......You would think they would put that on a product made for RV's.
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.