Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post project writeups, ideas, DIY mods and off the shelf modifications and improvements. Also "Known Issues" and their resolutions.
ASaucyBurrito
Posts: 46
Joined: November 2nd, 2018, 5:48 am
Location: SW MI

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by ASaucyBurrito »

chin_k wrote: July 11th, 2019, 5:49 am I have been able to avoid dealing with the trailer connector since the only thing I used so far is bike rack. However, eventually, I will need to take care of this.

SaucyBurrito, is the 7 pin adapter the standard type used nowadays? I assume I can get it readily from any auto part store, correct? The one I had used is the four pins ones.

Chin_K,

I am no expert, but it mainly depends on the style of trailer. My friends trailer is a 7-pin blade style which seems pretty common for car trailers or larger trailers with brakes. The connector that I ended up with actually accommodates 4 and 5-pin flat connectors, and the larger 7-pin. Here is what I bought:

Link

You can always get adapters to go from 7-pin to 6pin and the like as well.
1993 Chinook Concourse XL
User avatar
Blue~Go
Senior Member
Posts: 3797
Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by Blue~Go »

Just as a note, I always use a 7-pin physical connector on the tow vehicle (and preferably also on the trailer but I have a "down to 4-way" adapter in case I ever need to tow a rental). I find them the easiest to deal with and most reliable. You can just hook up the number of "ways" you want to have functional.
1999 Concourse
ASaucyBurrito
Posts: 46
Joined: November 2nd, 2018, 5:48 am
Location: SW MI

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by ASaucyBurrito »

Some small updates since the last go around.

First, towing was a success. This setup was probably 4500lbs or so and the Chinook did great. You can feel it, but the ride was probably even better than unloaded. Unfortunately the brake controller that came with the rig faulted out whenever the headlights were on, so there must be some wiring issue there that needs to be resolved. Otherwise no issues.

Image

I replaced the HVAC fan that had varied from noisy to inoperable at low speeds depending on the day. Easy fix, $30 part, and much nicer now. Bearings on the old unit were shot.

Image

Our interior light covers had a faux wood gain stripe down the center as I believe many do. We decided to change that up a bit and painted them. We had leftover trim paint from the kitchen project, so we just used that. My wife put a few coats on and I think they look great. I had already painted the interior AC cover white last year to match the MaxxAir shroud I installed last year when replacing the broken fantastic fan.

Before:
Image

After:
Image
Image

I also went on an LED spree. I purchased a 16' soft white LED strip from Amazon and went about replacing all the interior lights with this one strip. I did purchase a $10 connector kit, bringing the total to $20 + my time for all fixtures. I used leftover 3M adhesive spray from the tile project to make sure they stick.

Image

Image


I splurged and went with two RGB LED strips behind the oak valences. The RGB strips are fully dimmable and color controlled, and pull a total of ~1.6A for both sides on full white, but are worlds brighter than what was in there before. I used the included adhesive backing and simply applied them to the wood and mounted the control box with the included double sided tape.

Image

Previously the CFL's were pulling 1.64A for the large fixtures, and 1.16A for the smaller ones. Total draw of nearly 8A with all interior lights on, plus another ~2A for the lights behind the oak valences, and 4A for the four incandescent bulbs in the bathroom light fixture. So around 14A all in.

After the update the large fixtures pull 0.57A, small fixtures including the bathroom at 0.35A/ea, for a total of 2.9A. Add the RGB on full white and we're still only at 4.5A. Much better! The RBG's are really all that is needed at night too, and they provide a nice ambiance in the interior while pulling very little power. I'm very happy.


The local junk yard was having a 40% off sale, so I picked up a new grill and headlights to try to spruce the front end up a bit. Total investment was $40 for these. I actually purchased both this style and the big chrome oval style. I think the dual Ford emblems look a bit silly, but I don't think it stands out too much. The oval style requires a different mount that I didn't snag, so it's this for now in any case.

Before:
Image

After:
Image


More to come as always...
Last edited by ASaucyBurrito on August 20th, 2019, 4:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
1993 Chinook Concourse XL
chin_k
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 2257
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Location: Southern CA

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by chin_k »

Very nice!

Now, for the trailer setup, do you have the MPG numbers for with and without the car trailer? I wonder how much of a hit did you take with that. Maybe it is nominal due to the V10, but I am curious to know.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
ASaucyBurrito
Posts: 46
Joined: November 2nd, 2018, 5:48 am
Location: SW MI

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by ASaucyBurrito »

chin_k wrote: August 19th, 2019, 10:17 am Very nice!

Now, for the trailer setup, do you have the MPG numbers for with and without the car trailer? I wonder how much of a hit did you take with that. Maybe it is nominal due to the V10, but I am curious to know.
Chin_k,

I have the 460 V8 and usually get around 9-10MPG from what I've seen. I did not get mileage with the trailer unfortunately. I actually haven't filled it back up yet :D and used the generator for several hours at the race track I brought the car to... so I am not really sure how it will be. I don't expect the damage to be too bad though as the Chinook is already punching a big hole through the air and my tow was mostly flat.

I'm very happy with how it did though. As I said you can feel that you're moving 13-14klbs around, but even with that the engine gets the rig up to speed in a very reasonable amount of time. Brakes were probably the biggest weak point I saw. They weren't dangerous, and a lot of it is likely due to the situation with my rear brakes which will cover in an update soon.

James
1993 Chinook Concourse XL
VTSweetpea
Posts: 91
Joined: May 9th, 2016, 12:19 pm

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by VTSweetpea »

Very nice work James!
2001 Concourse 4x4
danesk
Posts: 26
Joined: April 5th, 2019, 7:48 am
Contact:

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by danesk »

Great use of the strip lighting! I will do the same, but am confused about which connector kit to order from Amazon. Can you supply a link to the one you ordered, or more detail?

Thanks for the good ideas!
Happy Trails,
Dan Eskelson
2000 Chinook Concourse
User avatar
SMan
Senior Member
Posts: 645
Joined: February 17th, 2015, 1:57 pm
Location: 7 Lakes, WA

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by SMan »

danesk wrote: August 30th, 2019, 11:24 am Great use of the strip lighting! I will do the same, but am confused about which connector kit to order from Amazon. Can you supply a link to the one you ordered, or more detail?

Thanks for the good ideas!
I agree danesk. Nice work.
FWIW In our Premier I just removed the old light bulbs from the bath fan/light combo and replaced with waterproof adhesive led strip lights. Instead of connectors I just soldered them together. Better light and took the opportunity to replace the shattered fan blade too. :lol:
Steve aka SMan
2004 Premier V10
chin_k
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 2257
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Location: Southern CA

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by chin_k »

I did the same thing by soldering them. No need for the connector kit.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
ASaucyBurrito
Posts: 46
Joined: November 2nd, 2018, 5:48 am
Location: SW MI

Re: Updates to our 1993 Concourse - Project Thread

Post by ASaucyBurrito »

Agreed, strip connector kit is not required. You can solder directly to the metal contacts, but the kit does save time.

Here is the strip I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DP ... UTF8&psc=1

And the connector kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZ ... UTF8&psc=1

I will say that despite all that, I did end up soldering wires to two of the strips as they only give 10 connectors. But the mounting clips and other accessories were useful. Your call.

My adhesive unfortunately does not seem to be holding as well as I had hoped, with a couple of them starting to pull back. I will be adding a couple clips to them so they hopefully will stay put for the long haul.
1993 Chinook Concourse XL
Post Reply