The PO of my '01 Concourse (E350) had a DIY rear step attached to the top OEM bumper step. When stowed, it just swings up and over the top step with side brackets and the step plate rests on the door stop thingy at the bottom of the door... doesn't retract, fold in or anything. No way of securing it during travel, so it does bounce up and down.
I've looked into a "single manual step" available as aftermarket and it appears a 28" wide, 7" drop single step that neatly lifts/retracts under the fixed bumper step may work. Not interested in going electric.
Before I commit to spending the coin, I would like to see what others have or have done for their rear step assembly...OEM or modified. Thanks
Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
- HoosierB
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Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
- caconcourse
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Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
Your step sounds a lot like the OEM configuration, but may have bent or stuck sliders. Here are pictures of a working OEM step, down, starting to fold and folded. The step should slide into a flat configuration and rest on top of the fixed step. It doesn't bounce or rattle when folded properly, nor does it interfere with the door holdback.
If you can make it work like the original, it's probably your best bet, because it is simple and reliable, no electric complications. oops had to edit the pics
If you can make it work like the original, it's probably your best bet, because it is simple and reliable, no electric complications. oops had to edit the pics
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
- HoosierB
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Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
Thanks Clay for the excellent visual reference. Mine looks similar, but the slider brackets are a solid bar, so no sliding action.
Hard to explain, so I will post pics of mine tomorrow.
Hard to explain, so I will post pics of mine tomorrow.
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
If the "slider" is fixed, can't you drill holes along the middle, and use file or router to make it like OEM? It will be hard work if you don't have CNC or metal mill, but maybe you can sent the metal bars to someone who can fabricate it?
I have to buy some nylon spacers to replace mine, and they matched very well. So you know if you can make the slider, you can make one to work like ours.
I have to buy some nylon spacers to replace mine, and they matched very well. So you know if you can make the slider, you can make one to work like ours.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
- HoosierB
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Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
I would like to salvage this DIY step frame since it's so well built, heavy duty and even uses diamond plate on the step surface.
From Clay's pics, I am missing the additional slotted "slider bar" on my assembly.
chin_k... your suggestion may solve the issue. Take a look....
Photos attached.
From Clay's pics, I am missing the additional slotted "slider bar" on my assembly.
chin_k... your suggestion may solve the issue. Take a look....
Photos attached.
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
- caconcourse
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Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
On the OEM step there is a second pivot point where your step is welded to the strut, so the step can pivot to the flat upright position and the strut can lay flat on the main step. If you put bolts where the welded connection is (and unweld the connection) you can restore the folding capability. But then you need to add support to the back of the step when it is unfolded. You could use wire rope straps in place of the slotted slider struts, which would just loop when folding, or you could have sliders fabricated to make it work like the original.
Another option is to replace the slotted slider struts with solid bars, but put a hook cutout on the top that allows you to just hook it on the top pivot bolt instead of sliding.
The design of the OEM struts and sliders is a little elaborate with spacers and notches so that the metal pieces lay flat when everything is folded. Quite ingenious really. The PO did a pretty nice job replacing the lost step, but the stowage design leaves a little to be desired.
Another option is to replace the slotted slider struts with solid bars, but put a hook cutout on the top that allows you to just hook it on the top pivot bolt instead of sliding.
The design of the OEM struts and sliders is a little elaborate with spacers and notches so that the metal pieces lay flat when everything is folded. Quite ingenious really. The PO did a pretty nice job replacing the lost step, but the stowage design leaves a little to be desired.
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
I did not realize there is a L-bracket in the step. As long as it is not too wide to add the spacer and the additional metal bracket for the second pivot point that Clay mentioned, I think it is still doable. The chain method will make it easier to make, but it will rattle, and the chain may tangled, and you will feel the jerk when it let go as you step onto it. However, if there is no room for the second set of brackets, chains maybe the way to go.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
- HoosierB
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Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
chin_k.... my guesstimate is the step is too wide to add the spacers and additional struts. DRAT! I have sent an email to ASAP Metal Fab in Yakima, WA (the original fabricators for Chinook steps) to see if they have any parts available for the OEM step assembly.chin_k wrote: July 25th, 2019, 12:40 pm As long as it is not too wide to add the spacer and the additional metal bracket for the second pivot point that Clay mentioned, I think it is still doable.
It's a long shot...
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
- HoosierB
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Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
UPDATE:
ASAP Metal Fab replied to my inquiry for original Chinook step assembly parts. They had at one time a limited supply of parts , but no longer. They would be happy to build a complete "original spec assembly" for around $500-750, plus shipping...
To alter my existing assembly per Clay and chin_k's suggestions, I would need a metal fab/welder guy, costing about $150-175 plus materials. That's assuming no change to the existing step width, which I still believe will be too wide for the added struts.
A new aftermarket assembly costs about $90 (shipped) for a 29" wide single step model (pic attached). This would be a slide-out rather than the fold-out design. Not sure if there is enough space underneath the existing fixed step for this type of assembly...(sigh)
ASAP Metal Fab replied to my inquiry for original Chinook step assembly parts. They had at one time a limited supply of parts , but no longer. They would be happy to build a complete "original spec assembly" for around $500-750, plus shipping...
To alter my existing assembly per Clay and chin_k's suggestions, I would need a metal fab/welder guy, costing about $150-175 plus materials. That's assuming no change to the existing step width, which I still believe will be too wide for the added struts.
A new aftermarket assembly costs about $90 (shipped) for a 29" wide single step model (pic attached). This would be a slide-out rather than the fold-out design. Not sure if there is enough space underneath the existing fixed step for this type of assembly...(sigh)
"Wanda" – '01 Chinook Concourse XL V10
Re: Your Rear Step Assembly: photos needed
If the moveable step is narrow enough for the two brackets on each side, you should be able to modify it without welding, but it can be a lot of work for the sliding bracket if you do not have a drill press.
ASAP Metal Fab does charge respectable price for their product. It is an American company, and their price is reflected on their quality. One thing that you may want to try is to ask them for the step and the brackets (and maybe the rods, bolts and spacers too). Maybe if you do not have to get the entire complete assembly, it will be more affordable???
Now, the aftermarket assembly is also interesting. It is not a true slide out, since from the picture, it looks like you need to lift up the step so that the side is horizontal (to get the bottom off the C-shaped bracket) then you slide it in. If it is a true slide-out one, I would want to put a actuator on it and make it into an electric step. For $90, I bet the metal is thinner than ASAP, and it is not powder coated.
ASAP Metal Fab does charge respectable price for their product. It is an American company, and their price is reflected on their quality. One thing that you may want to try is to ask them for the step and the brackets (and maybe the rods, bolts and spacers too). Maybe if you do not have to get the entire complete assembly, it will be more affordable???
Now, the aftermarket assembly is also interesting. It is not a true slide out, since from the picture, it looks like you need to lift up the step so that the side is horizontal (to get the bottom off the C-shaped bracket) then you slide it in. If it is a true slide-out one, I would want to put a actuator on it and make it into an electric step. For $90, I bet the metal is thinner than ASAP, and it is not powder coated.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
