What is MorRide and how do I know if I have it?

[Flame]

On another thread I discussed attempting to replace my rear shocks with Monroe #555010 with coil springs over them. I was not able to compress them down enough for installation. It was suggested with MorRide I maybe should not use coilover shocks. It might possibly make the rear ride too high. I called Monroe and they said to jack up the frame enough to let the rear wheels drop enough to install the shocks. I tried but did not succeed. How do I know if I have MorRide?? What should I look for??

[Blue~Go]

I don't have Mor-Ryde. Hence, if I look at the end of my rear leaf springs, I just see normal (Ford) shackles. If it were Mor-Ryde, then instead of normal shackles, there would be rubber/metal things that kind of look like solid rubber bellows. I'll see if I can add a photo.

My guess is you don't because my '99 is an XL and they are not present. I think they came in on later models.

If I were going to add something with similar function I think I'd try the Sulastic Shackles.

added: Something like this instead of typical shackles, if you have Mor-Ryde:

[Astrodokk]

I was curious about mine so I checked and sure enough I have the MORryde system, but the right side one is completely sheared. I always noticed a slight lean to the right from the rear and now I know why. They look just like the ones in the pic Blue posted.
I see old, rusted rear shocks too. I didn't see a typical sway bar though. There's a straight bar that goes left to right between the frame in the rear but I don't think that's it.
The front has coils and a steering damper (looks like a shock absorber). But I don't see any shocks. Do you guys install them in front?
I'm a little miffed because I have asked all the people who have done work on this rig to please inspect it thoroughly for any issues. I always got a clean bill of health for the rig. I'm especially turned off by the Ford dealer who I went to twice. Les Schwab should have caught that too.
I guess to do it right, you have to do it yourself. There's an RV service center in Everett (Ryan's) who's a dealer for MORryde, and I'll be calling them next week. Any idea how much it should cost for the pair?

[Astrodokk]

This is how they look.

[chin_k]

Yeah, it is pretty specialized, so many people don't know that it is a broken rubber sheer spring. I am sure there is a shock in the front on each side. It is standard Ford E350 item that if missing, means that one of the previous owner removed it but never replaced it. Check again and make sure.... it am sure it is there.

Flame and other people had replaced t by shop, so maybe they can give you a price range. I think 69camero have a long story about his experience to tell you. I did mine, and it was a bit of work (passenger side is more difficult due to the exhaust). Do a search on the forum and you should be able to see them all.

[caconcourse]

There's an RV service center in Everett (Ryan's) who's a dealer for MORryde, and I'll be calling them next week. Any idea how much it should cost for the pair?

If you have a local MorRyde dealer, you are lucky. They should charge a reasonable rate for installation. It's not hard for shops that know what they are doing but it's very difficult for ones that don't, and they charge according to their struggles, as I experienced at a local tire shop. That bar connecting the hangers is an anti sway bar, that allows the rubber springs to dampen the roll by pulling on the opposite side. With new shocks and new MorRyde springs, you should have a pleasant ride, definitely better than running with a sheared spring.

Here's a sample price for the springs, at $230 each: https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/DSR108- ... ear-Spring
I paid more than that I believe from the factory. I've seen shops charge up to $500 for installation (mine, unfortunately), but the authorized dealer price is probably under $200.

The front shocks are mounted just behind the coil springs, and you should see them when you look in the wheel wells behind the front tires. Mine are yellow Monroe shocks, so they are easily spotted. The originals were black.

[Astrodokk]

Ok so I did finally see the front shocks all hidden away behind the front coils. I want to replace them, as well as the steering damper or even use a stabilizer. I do notice the steering wheel jerks somewhat over certain bumps, so maybe it's dry like Chin's.
I called the RV place today and it sounds like they aren't very familiar with this system. They had to ask me to send them a photo. The last one they did was about three years ago.
Also, my rubber has a 2 stamped on it, and the website does say the newer rubbers replace size 2, 6, 7. But it also says that the proper size is determined by the GAWR. What is ours?

- DSR springs can be used on any RL system
- Replaces the #2, #6 and #7 MO shear springs.
- Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) needed to determine density of rubber
- Density of rubber may be determined by number stamped in original spring, ie: 63 = DSR108-063

Mine only has a number 2 on it. I think this is going to cost a few bucks but I think it will be worth it. Probably do ball joints at the same time, so thinking of going to a truck specialist rather than this RV shop that didn't really know what I wanted.

[Blue~Go]

Your rear axle weight rating is probably 7,500#. May be important to point out that it is nearly 100% loaded all the time. Not like say a pickup truck or van where it may be loaded up one day but not the next so they have to allow for it to not be super stiff when you are riding empty. We are never riding "empty."

I believe I read in another thread that there are different "holes" they can use and if you don't specify they don't use the one that puts the rear the highest. It's involved to change later. So if you want more "perk" in back, you may want to have them utilize the higher one right away. I'm sure someone else here can address this.

[chin_k]

yes, there are three sets of mounting holes for you to put the MorRyde at three different levels. I set mine on the lowest holes, so the spring will put the frame higher. Yes, it is confusing, but once you see it, it should be obvious. Once installed, you will have to compress and decompress the spring if you want to change the level, which will take about half an hour to an hour if you have the tool to do the job, so it is not easy.

As for the shear spring types, it is also very confusing when you call the MorRyde people. They will mention the different between transit bus and ambulance, etc., but I just ask for the direct replacement for the existing rubber type if I were you.

Astro, it is easy to check the stabilizer. I did it without jack, just by sliding under the front. Just remove one of the bolt, and test the piston, and you should be able to tell if it need replacement. Obviously, if there are oil everywhere, and the damper is busted, you know it is not going to be good. Maybe 15 minutes to check it. After I replaced my damper, the steering is a lot more better. Best $30 I spend on the rig (I don't think there is anything I did that were cheaper )