Bearing slide, full extension drawers for under the stove cabinet with drawings...

[Dano]

New project! Two drawers to maximize accessibility under our stove/cook tops. I don’t like the thought of piling stuff on top of each other and having it rattle around. These drawers will make getting to everything in a really easy and organized way.

The basic idea is to build a removable door pack so if anything ever has to get accessed like a propane line, it will come out easy. So, we start this project with a few fast drawings. Everything is screwed down it’s final form and attached with ‘L’ brackets for easy removal.

First, the front mock up. Each color represents an item, dimension or reveal. The drawers will be attached to full extension slides and they will be attached to mostly full height and width panels which will be screwed to 3/4”, by mostly full height, side pieces which are in turn attached to the cabinet walls with the ’L’ brackets. Clear as mud? Read on, it actually makes sense!

From the front view, the blue is the height of each bearing slide. The red outline is the actual cabinet opening. The two green shades show the full thickness of the side panel but also the 1/4” reveal that will be seen when the two front doors open. This creates the necessary tolerances so the door doesn’t hit the cabinet when opening. The bearing slides add another 1/2” width so the drawer should sit nicely inside. The grey sides are the attachment pieces.

[Dano]

Next, is the overhead view...

I will have a few inches of dead space on either side of the drawers and that is something you need to accept. The good news is both doors will open fully and not contact the drawer at all when it is pulled out. I feel the accessibility of the drawers easily outweigh those losses. The overhead view shows the side pieces that will attach to the actual cabinet and to the side pieces that the bearing slides are screwed into. Hopefully that is clearer. The red outline is the actual cabinet dimensions +/-.

[Dano]

And finally!
This overhead view shows the side pieces and how they will be attached with L brackets. I am going to add an extra at the bottom of each piece to create some lateral stability. I’ll show that in photos later. The straight line to the right is the actual cabinet next to the fridge it will be screwed into.

[Dano]

Alright, after final opening measurements, we have our first small wrinkle! Forget to add in the door closing mechanisms at the top of the opening which are 1/2” in height so the top drawer will have to be at least that height downwards to clear them both. Also, notice the opening has radiused corners which will reduce the space the drawers will have to open in those areas, hence the need to space out the side walls to make sure they clear.

[Dano]

So, after careful deliberations of at LEAST 3 minutes, the drawers will be 16.75” wide, plus 1’’ for both slide widths (1/2” + 1/2”) and a 1/2” reveal on either side (1/4” + 1/4”) to make up the total 18.25” width. This allows for side clearance and bearing slide width...I HOPE.

Total drawer side height will be 4 1/2” each. I have two pieces of leftover 1/4” plywood from my bed builds which will act as bases for each drawer. I will rabbet edges into the bottoms so the plywood sits flush. Photos to follow!

[Blue~Go]

This is very interesting to me. I have all new cabinetry made for my Chinook, but before the carpenter mounted the drawers on slides, cancer intervened. Maybe I can learn a few things here.

I have a question though: Why allow space for the cabinet door latches? I mean, you won't have doors, and they remove with a couple of little screws. I despise those things anyway - major hair grabbers.

Another idea, for what its worth: On mine once the drawers would be removed there is full access to teh cabinets (no rail between drawers). So there isn't any need to be able to remove the drawer slides themselves.

Lastly, just so you know, the rear (outboard) "wall" of the cabinet is just fake. There is about 5" of space behind it and inside that the two propane lines come up through the floor - one for the fridge and one for the stove. I boxed those in with just a column and gained a bunch of free space.

(BTW, mine came with the oven so there were no doors there - just a cupboard down by the wheelwell. But I know those door latches from other cabinet doors in the Chinook.)

[Dano]

Blue in the nick of time!!

I was just going to cut my drawer side depths to length, now I'm going to see about that panel, could be good, usable space right there!

By the way, I'm hopeful you are beating that piece of garbage Cancer, I lost my Mother a year and a half ago so all the best to you Blue.

[chin_k]

Yeah, Blue's statement can be easily misunderstood, but some of us knew more of the history, so we knew it was his carpenter. Sorry to hear that you lost your mother, Dano.

Glad that you were able to make use of Blue's hint of the treasure behind the panel.

[Dano]

Thanks Chin, I had the honor of telling her I loved her and holding her hand when she died and we were alone. Incredible moment.

[Dano]

Alright, back to work!!

Blue; I am leaving the doors in place so it will be two front doors and then two drawers inside, hence the reason to keep the latches.

Took the back panel off as per Blue's suggestion and you will gain just proud of 4" to the back wall, however the copper propane lines reduce depth. I think I can safely add a little depth and clear all the lines. Alternatively, you could make the drawer narrower and they would slide to the left of the lines but I think I'll keep the same design and take my extra inch and be grateful to Blue! Good heads up! So, the new depth will be 21" which will sit in front of the lines with no other modifications. One other reason to not go longer are my slides are only 18” long so I don’t want to create any issues with too long of a drawer. On to the saw!