New leaf springs question

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chin_k
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by chin_k »

There is a couple inches of difference between using the highest holes vs the lowest one. You will need to release the compression before you can relocate the spring to a different set of holes, so it is not that easy to do. It will take about half of the time it take to entirely replace the spring, so it is about 2 hours if you have the proper tools to compression the MorRyde. The change does not affect the front, obviously, so it just make the rear slope toward.
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sleepy t
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by sleepy t »

Thanks, I appreciate the info and guidance. Though it's easy, now I'm not sure I can stomach the labor cost to get that last inch that I should have done initially. But if I had that last inch, I might be able to get the rig in the steeply sloped driveway.... Too bad my mechanic who knew I was looking for more clearance didn't think about the other holes and just used the original ones.
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Blue~Go
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Blue~Go »

That is an annoying set of choices. I'd probably have to just get it done - especially if there is a driveway issue. You'll have to stomach the cost once, but the other way around you will have to have it an inch low 24/7/365 :x
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by sleepy t »

Strike!

You're killing me, Blue! (Never get to say that while not watching baseball.)
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chin_k
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by chin_k »

I think it is doable for most people if they have the tool already. You maybe able to get away with a C-clamp to compress the spring to relocate it.

As for the driveway, one of my neighbor put a couple pieces of 2X6's on the driveway for their sport car to drive on due to the driveway issue (it get it almost 2 inch off the ground). It would be nice if they remove them when they are done, but it seems like they decided to make that a permanent feature of the driveway. :roll:
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caconcourse
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by caconcourse »

sleepy t wrote: January 24th, 2019, 5:34 pm Thanks, I appreciate the info and guidance. Though it's easy, now I'm not sure I can stomach the labor cost to get that last inch that I should have done initially. But if I had that last inch, I might be able to get the rig in the steeply sloped driveway.... Too bad my mechanic who knew I was looking for more clearance didn't think about the other holes and just used the original ones.
If it will make you feel better, I told the mechanic to use the bottom holes on the MorRyde when we had them replaced and he forgot or had so much trouble he used the middle ones anyway. I was disappointed at first, but later I realized that the vehicle height was just as important to me. I went into an oil change garage, rubbing the door with the air conditioner, thinking the height was 9'8" instead of 9'10". The door was actually 10', but an extra inch of height would have been trouble. I also went through a few arched overpasses with clearance less than 10', so you might as well be grateful you don't have that extra inch.

Also, it turns out your configuration is pretty much the same as mine. I installed new MorRyde springs and got new Monroe shocks all around, and I like the ride and stability very much.

One thing I learned about slopes is to approach them at 45 degrees if at all possible. On our first real trip, I ignorantly tried to cross a ditch, and stranded the rear end in the sand with the rear wheels almost off the ground. It was a very stressful afternoon, waiting for help, and although the tow truck pulled us across in about 5 minutes, it ripped our MorRyde spring in two. I got the shocks installed a few days later on the way home, but rode with the torn spring for a couple of thousand miles and didn't notice it until we were home. This was the same trip we had a blowout on our right front tire, so we added a couple of tires along the way also. Thankfully, we learned very much from that trip, and have had thousands of trouble-free miles since.
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by sleepy t »

Sorry, Blue, I should've explained that you're right on target (strike!) with the choices and the direction I'd likely choose as well.

Clay, you made me feel better and brought up an interesting point about vehicle height. I may just give it a whirl as is and see where the inch is more important. I've checked out your blog, but haven't read about the blowout. Fortunately, I've been spared disaster so far and having great minds like yours and the others on the forum have been instrumental in my luck.

The angles of the driveways and the street in my neighborhood give many cars problems (maybe not at a 45 degree approach, but we can't teach everyone). I hear someone scrape the underside of their bumper every day. My feelings aren't too hurt that I can't get it in frontwards, but can just weasel it in backwards. Before the MORryde repair, I wouldn't have even tried.

I lined the gutter with pieces of thick recycled rubber cut from a feed store 7'x8' stall mat. Chin's neighbor might want to take note as it's somehow less offensive to look at the rubber than a piece of lumber on the street. I also use smaller pieces of the rubber as parking blocks. They're durable as heck, easy to move and stash in the rig, and isolate the tires from the ground. The pieces are 3/4" thick. I'm on 4 or 5 of them in the driveway.
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Blue~Go
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Blue~Go »

No worries - I could tell what you meant.
sleepy t wrote: January 25th, 2019, 1:46 am I may just give it a whirl as is and see where the inch is more important.
Okay, but now I can't. Where is the "other" inch you are speaking of? Are you thinking the front? I don't see that as an inch for an inch because the front has comparatively "no" overhang as compared to the back. Heck, I have a front hitch there with a spare tire holder (so that's an additional 2" square fore-and-aft tube right smack below the front bumper) and I go all over the place and have never so much as had that whisper on anything. Even with the perky rear (it's literally raked upward in the back) I have to watch the rear departure angle all the time. Diagonal angles when I can, easing through ruts, holding my breath a little when I can't make a diagonal.

That's not to say you have to change the rear, but in my experience I wouldn't worry about the front going "down" (if it even did).
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chin_k
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by chin_k »

sleepy t wrote: January 25th, 2019, 1:46 am I lined the gutter with pieces of thick recycled rubber cut from a feed store 7'x8' stall mat.
I learn something new here everyday! Did not know that horse stalls are lined with these mats. :idea: Now, will any of you laugh at me if I use these stall mats for the Chinook floor? :)
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Scott
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Re: New leaf springs question

Post by Scott »

I've never seen a more ryde in person, and I haven't read the whole thread, but if I'm understanding the design from looking at Clay's pic, those three vertical hole locations will give you about half the lift of their respective spacings. In other words, if you lower the rear mounting point from the middle hole to the bottom hole, and assuming they're an inch apart center-to-center, and assuming the front of the spring retains the same position, the net gained lift will be about half an inch.

Again, I don't know this design, but just make sure you're getting what you pay for before you hire a mechanic.
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