oil change schedule

[Blue~Go]

Yes, technically it's more than 5 quarts (just over 6 with filter if I remember correctly). For example, I use more than one jug to refill. However, if I know I'm going to be changing oil, I won't "top up" just before hand. Between that and what's in the filter (a lot, unfortunately!), I can either make it into one jug, or, if not, then just stop when it's nearly full and use a one quart container for the rest. I always carry two one quart containers with me (either full or empty - they have a spot), plus the one empty big jug (plus another big full jug when I know I'll be changing, tho I usually just buy that one close to the time -- unless it's on super sale at some point in which case I may buy ahead of time. I carry the quarts because I can't always find the exact oil I like in the boondocks, and I like some on hand for topping up if necessary.

When it comes time to re-fill after a change, I don't go by the number of quarts they "say" to put back in. Rather I put in some obvious minimum amount (say 5 quarts) and then go by the dipstick. Then I run it for five minutes or so to be sure the filter isn't leaking (if it is I tighten a bit more, but so far it hasn't on the Chinook), and then re-check the oil and top just up to the full line if it needs it. Reason I do it that way is there is no way to know exactly how much (if any) might cling to the innards, and the dip stick is exact. Then I'll still check it again in the next day or so, because I think it's possible the filter medium might "soak in" a bit.

Sounds like a lot of work when I write it out, but in reality it's less than an hour's job, and I try to do it in pleasant surroundings. I prefer that to bringing my Chinook to whomever happens to be working at a shop and waiting (ugh). Also it gives me a chance to look around underneath a bit.

[chin_k]

That's pretty much the exact thing I do when I add oil after oil change. I do have a hard time seeing the oil level on the dip stick when the oil is new. When the oil is old, it is easy to see due to the darker color, but the fresh oil is so clear that I hardly can see the precise mark on the dipstick, so I often have to wipe it clean, push it back in, check the level, then repeat

[Blue~Go]

Me too - sometimes it's darned near impossible to see! Sometimes what I do is have a bit of paper towel in the other hand, and then carefully "lay" the dipstick onto it horizontally (without shifting it around). Then I can see where it puts oil on the towel.

Speaking of dipsticks, who can forget the first time they pull the dipstick out of a van? It just keeps coming, and coming, and coming (I drove vans for work back in the day and still remember that first time pulling out the dipstick ).

[Scott]

I'm sure you guys already know, but I just wanted to throw a couple basic things out there.

Whenever possible, it's always best to fill a new filter before installing. Otherwise you'll have a dry moment during the initial start up. Many people skip this. Another thing is to put a film of oil on the filter's seal. Also, be sure not to over-tighten the filter; it can cause the seal to warp and leak. A filter wrench really shouldn't be required for removal. Last thing, remember to bring everything you need before you crawl under there. Duh!

[Blue~Go]

Well that last one is impossible - come on!

I've read contradicting things about whether it matters about an empty or full filter. On my car the filter is on top of the engine and goes on upside-down, so it would be pretty hard to pre-fill it in any case. On the Chinook it's not as hard and of course having it full wouldn't hurt even if it turned out it didn't help, so that way you are covered either way. Guess that's going to go on my Google list because now I'm curious again.

Clean oil on the rubber gasket is a for sure in my book. Good tip. I also look at the sealing surface on the engine to make sure nothing stuck there from the previous one (unlikely but just a habit from back in the day). And yeah, over-tightened filters are so maddening! It's easy to tighten it a bit more if it seeps, so no real reason to crank it to the moon the first time. I just follow what it says on the filter (hand tight and then X percentage of another turn) and so far so good without it leaking or being too hard to take off.

[Astrodokk]

So this reply is going to SMan, who suggested that I go to Horizon Ford Truck Service in Burien, WA for servicing since most dealers won't take a Ford E-350 based RV into their shops. Thank you for the suggestion.

I had my rig serviced there today, and the cutaway chassis fully inspected. They said the rig is in top notch shape, and that it's been very well taken care of. They found nothing that needs to be done mechanically at this time, except for new wipers that they would charge 20 bucks for, installed. I declined, as I have spares but am using these as "ice" wipers haha.

When I told them about dealers not taking these rigs, the service guy said he's heard that before, because it has to go into a shop and get put on a lift.

These guys don't use a lift on these. They do it the old fashioned way. They crawled under and did it on their backs!

They performed an oil change, which is Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 blend. I believe these came with full synthetic when new. They said Ford put out a service notice about it. Oil change was $64.77. I'll do it cheaper myself next time, but I wanted pros to check things out this first time.

Also got a tranny service. They pulled the pan and replaced the filter too. They said everything else looks great. Wondering if they really were able to do a good inspection being on their backs like that.

So now that I've crossed that off my list, I will move on to the next project.

[SMan]

I am glad you had a good experience there. My father in law retired from them in the early 80's when they were Sea-Tac Ford. (Not why I recommended them) They put a new transmission in my first motorhome under warranty (1993 E-350) and were easy to work with. They were also the ones (on my first motorhome) who suggested that my rear leaf springs were woefully inadequate and arranged to add a spring pack to them for free under a TSB (Service Bulletin). Also glad you had a good report on your rig.

[Astrodokk]

Thanks again SMan.
And It was very icy today but the rig handled it very well.
Hence the ice wipers ha ha

[SMan]

Mine is covered tonight as well....

[Blue~Go]

Look at those snowy blankets. Kinda pretty.

And great to hear about your clean bill of health, Astro.

One thing I did that has proven to be very handy is the day I bought it (happened to be on a lift at a Ford dealer) I walked around underneath (with their permission) and photographed everything. I have referred to those photos numerous times. Could probably do it without a lift too, albeit not as easily. Maybe when the weather gets nicer

From what I know, the service bulletin was to change the oil viscosity from the originally recommended 5w30 to the now recommended 5w20. I don't believe there is any service bulletin specifying the blend over synthetic (correct me if I'm wrong). I think a lot of Fords would get the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend at the dealer, cause that's their thing. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with that, but I also don't think there is any reason not to run full synthetic (?).

I was running the 20 for while, but since I tend to run in warmer climes, I switched back to the 30. I have run Mobil 1 full synthetic the whole time except for the first day I owned it when the Ford dealer put in the Motorcraft Blend (I switched it next change).

PS: I have read that the "20" recommendation came from them trying to better meet CAFE (mileage) standards, and have also read that the oil galleries are small. If I had to guess I'd say the former (since CAFE probably changed and the oil galleries probably did not).

I think each brand is a little different, but at least for Mobil 1 synthetic the 20 and 30 are not that far apart (I guess there is a range of "farnesses" with different brands).