2000 Concourse Club repairs

[Blue~Go]

Ahh, that looks better. I was hoping you didn't have major floor rot. Anything can be fixed but nicer if you don't have to.

Your DWV plumbing is the same layout as mine. I think later they made that run more diagonal (and then maybe later than that they straightened it again). The way it is, it's super easy to make a box for that and then reclaim all the space above it (which was lost by the original design).

I'm not sure about the door leakage. Mine has basically been missing the weatherstripping for awhile and even in deluges no water comes in. You might take a look at the caulking around the top of the door on the outside where that little "hood" meets the roof. I guess there are lots of places it could come in, but I would think that when you find the right one (or ones) it will be obvious due to some trail of evidence. What I mean is that I can't see a chronic leak leaving no sign once you dig in. It can originally appear far away (because water travels), but once you dig into the leaking area there should be some signs.

Boy does that compartment look better now!

PS: Funny on the rust tool outlines: It's like the "bad" version of those super tidy tool boards that have an outline of each tool to show where you are supposed to hang it up

[Jean Allen]

Astro, I intended to go and buy that Concourse after Christmas !
I live in Quebec City Canada 1,500 milles from North Carolina . The seller told me about wood dammage and the rear door rubber seal to be changed....looking at your pics now I understand it's more than that.
Right Anything can be fixed
I wish you the best

[caconcourse]

Trunk is not as bad as I thought.
Side MDF has picked up some moisture.
I think a carpenter can repair that and build me a smarter box for the area.
The carpet is dryish to my surprise, although filthy and embedded with old rusty tool shapes for posterity.
I think water intrusion could be coming from the rear door. It’s missing the rubber seal between the screen door and jam. The outer door rubber looks in good shape.
Where can I buy the seal?

The screen door seal is not a water seal, but here is a replacement for the material that disintegrated that you can get on Amaon. It is hard to remove the old adhesive, but it can be dissolved and removed with Vaseline or Goo Gone, and a lot of elbow grease and paper towels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000 ... UTF8&psc=1

I would suspect the rubber seal on the trap door may be worn out and leaking, I had a compartment leak in the same place that was caused by the seal not working. You can close the door and spray with your hose to see if water is coming in. Put some dry paper towels on the floor of the compartment before you spray it, so you can easily detect new moisture. I bought some replacement rubber seal material at Home Depot to fix that. It was some MD building product rubber seal with adhesive to stick it to the door frame.

If the door is leaking, it may be caused by a misadjusted latch. If the door closes "too" easily, the seal may not make sufficient contact to compress. If it is too hard to close, the seal is probably ok but it is a pain to close. You adjust the door latch by loosening the latching bolt on the frame with a wrench, and then there is some back and forth adjustment. Move it in or out and retighten the bolt. When the door is adjusted just right, it will close firmly with a slight push of the door, and you should not be able to move the door in or out while it is latched.

Here is a link to the rubber "D" seal that I used to replace the door seal. That helped seal my door leak:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U8 ... UTF8&psc=1

[Astrodokk]

Thank you guys.
Time to start ordering some things.
I’m relieved that the floor integrity is still good. It feels really solid when I walk in the rig. No give in the floor.
The rig is currently parked facing downhill in my driveway, so I’m going to turn it strong and park it facing uphill so if it does rain the water will travel backwards to where it’s already moist.
Can’t wait for sun! Too bad I don’t have a shop for this.
Also, here is the rear door. The very bottom looks to be affected.

[Blue~Go]

I'd say the door is ready for a rebuild, when you get the chance. Or you can buy a new/same door from Attwood - someone else here did, but I forget who it was. But it's basically inner and outer skin over some framework (usually wood, I have heard of metal but only on the newest 24+' rigs). OTOH, maybe that's not first priority since it's not going to drip "upward" and affect the main floor.

The inner framework may be okay, or may need some work. The inner skin looks like it wants to be replaced (at least the lower part). Then obviously the window and door handle want to be re-bedded. That's likely what let the water in. It's something that can be worked on away from the Chinook (make a temp plywood or plastic door).

I'm somewhat amazed that that could all happen in a year and a half (since the previous-previous owners were supposed to have kept it inside). Good thing the whole RV doesn't have wooden framing (a la most Class C's). Can you imagine?

It has got to be so frustrating to be storing it outdoors in the rainy season You must be itching to dig in! Sure would be sweet to get it inside. Perhaps a storage facility? Many of those will let you work inside if you are not doing anything too ridiculous or obvious (if you have the kind where you have your own "garage stall" with its own wall and doors). Otherwise, bring on summer!

[Blue~Go]

Clay,

Did that EPDM half circle shape fit well on your tire locker door? I ask because I did find the correct stuff, which is smaller than most RV door stuff apparently) but it was crazy expensive. I think it was 1/2" or a little less. I see the one you linked to is 14mm (.55) -- was that okay?

The one you linked to for the main door looks like what the remnants are on mine from new. I'd like to find something closed cell or EPDM. I did pick a couple of things up at Home Depot to try but haven't done so yet.

[caconcourse]

Clay,

Did that EPDM half circle shape fit well on your tire locker door? I ask because I did find the correct stuff, which is smaller than most RV door stuff apparently) but it was crazy expensive. I think it was 1/2" or a little less. I see the one you linked to is 14mm (.55) -- was that okay?

The one you linked to for the main door looks like what the remnants are on mine from new. I'd like to find something closed cell or EPDM. I did pick a couple of things up at Home Depot to try but haven't done so yet.

That first link was for the screen door "foam" seal.

I didn't have a link for the seal that I used on the trap door, but I believe it was something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pro ... PDKIKX0DER

It comes as a "double D" but you can cut it down the middle to make two "D" strips. I made a small mistake of stretching it a little when putting it on (it's hard not to), so it has shrunk after some time and tends to peel off the corners now that the adhesive has been compromised. I need to re-do it. I made sure the seam was at the bottom of the door instead of the top, so if it wanted to leak at the seam, it wouldn't go inside. It's very cheap. I did this on both the tire locker and the battery compartment and they don't leak.

[Blue~Go]

Okay, that most recent link looks something like what I did buy for the main door (I think... I'll have to check).

But I'm still a tiny bit confused because there are two gaskety type things linked in your previous-previous post (so three total including this last post). A rectangular open celled foam one, and a D-shaped EPDM one. What am I missing?

[caconcourse]

Okay, that most recent link looks something like what I did buy for the main door (I think... I'll have to check).

But I'm still a tiny bit confused because there are two gaskety type things linked in your previous-previous post (so three total including this last post). A rectangular open celled foam one, and a D-shaped EPDM one. What am I missing?

The rectangular foam is the seal between the screen door and the inside of the door frame.

The D-shaped EPDM I used on the main door all the way around and a strip across the bottom. The adhesive is about 1/2 inch wide.

The third link in the last post was the small D-shaped seal I used for the hatch doors. The adhesive on this is only about 1/4 inch wide.

[Blue~Go]

Thank you! Seems like I need to take a closer look at the main door seals