Spark Plugs Triton V10 Engine

[jvanwezenb]

I have seen that spark plugs should be changed at 100,000 miles. Have those who have reached and passed that milestone have you changed the spark plugs? I am 13,000 miles away and am wondering how critical the need is and cost etc.

Thanks,
John
2003 Concourse

[Blue~Go]

I would say it's important. Every engine I know of has some Achilles heel and spark plugs are one of those on the V-10 (and the sister V-8 5.4). In our vans they are held in by only very few threads, and those can allow a spark plug to "blow" out of the hole, which can lead to very bad things. I don't know that they are any more likely to go after 100,000 miles, but it stands to reason that the longer they are in there, the harder they may be to remove, and the more likely to have thread problems. Also they may well be worn out from a gap/functioning point of view.

My previous camper van had the 5.4, and I bought it at 95,000 miles. Gah, sure, sell it just before the spark plug change comes due. I was SO nervous about having it done. As it turns out I was stranded in a small town at around that time (non-van issues), and ended up at a great "one guy" mechanic shop, and he did the job while I watched. All went great (what a relief!). One thing we did was the day before actually changing the plugs, he removed all the upper stuff (like half the engine, sheesh, vans), blew out the deep spark plug "wells" with compressed air, and hit them all with Kroil. Thus the next day they had soaked all night. He said the key was just being very slow and gentle, and feeling your way along. The plugs weren't in really bad condition (in terms of fouling), but they were pretty worn and the gap was thus too large. I hadn't noticed any driveability issues but they were very clearly ready to change.

I drove out of that shop tentatively, but last I knew of the van (after I sold it) it had around 170k on it and was still going strong.

With my Chinook I decided to have them done right when I bought it. Sure, it only had 49k, but I didn't want those original plugs sitting in there for any more years (I figure time must count too, not just miles) and I wanted to start fresh. For reasons of being in a big city with limited time and no connections, I had them done at a Ford dealer, along with a few other necessary things (then had a larger baseline maintenance done a few months later at a non-dealer shop). So far, so good (4.5 years and 30k later), although I'd go with the individual mechanic I know every time over a dealer. I don't like my baby being "wheeled off" into a back room where I don't get to talk with/know the person working on it.

If I were near their shop I might consider just using the blown spark plug guys (forget their exact name - think they are in Cali somewhere). They go in and put in an insert to completely fix the problem. Usually after one has blown, but you can do it ahead of time too. Not 100% necessary obviously if you are not having problems now.

Long story short, although it was nerve-wracking, I wouldn't not do it. If you are near the blown spark plug guys' shop, maybe just do that for extra peace of mind, if you want to.

[Manitou]

I had to have them replaced at 70K miles. 1 had partially backed out (luckily didn't blow and strip threads). Several boots had gone bad. It sounded like a difficult job for some of the locations and I heard horror stories about stripping threads so I had someone else do it (historically I always change plus/wires myself, but no that time).

[dougm]

Below is a list of changes of the engine components in relation to the casting number. Many engine remanufacturers refer to the casting number for proper fitment of engine parts. The actual part number of each component is difficult to trace because many of the component part numbers were superseded many times during production.

Cylinder Heads

Casting Number: F7VE – produced from 1997 until 1999 and known as “Non-PI” version. Has rounded intake ports with an open style combustion chamber with one intake valve and one exhaust valve.

YC2E – produced from 2000 until 2001 and known as “PI” version. Has somewhat of a square shaped intake port with more of a closed style combustion chamber which offered a small compression ratio change. Also has one intake valve and one exhaust valve.

1C2E – produced from 2002 until 2004 and known as “PI” version. Same head as the YC2E with differences being to the spark plug threads.

These heads had revisions to the spark plug threads because Ford had issues with the Modular engines (meaning the 4.6 liter and 5.4 liter) prior to this that would blow the spark plugs out. The problem was that there were not enough threads holding the spark plugs in the cylinder heads. Over a period of time the spark plugs would work loose and then blow out, stripping the threads from the cylinder head. There is a service tool and procedure for the prior cylinder heads which will ream the stripped spark plug hole to allow for a new threaded insert for the spark plug.

The 1C2E cylinder head is often referred to as “LP,” meaning long plug.

5C3E – produced from 2005 until 2007, this was the introduction of the three-valve version. This head had two intake valves and one exhaust valve. The spark plugs changed to a different design for the three-valve combustion chamber. The intake ports are an oval shape for the split port design of the two intake valves.

9C3E – produced from 2008 until present and are very similar to the 5C3E except for a smaller combustion chamber which resulted in a small compression change.

From 1997 until 2005 the two-valve version cylinder heads used a spark plug with a 14mm thread, an 18 mm reach, and a 5/8˝ hex. The valve diameters were 44.5 mm intake valve and a 36 mm exhaust valve.

From 2005 until present the three valve version cylinder heads used a spark plug with a 12mm thread, 26.5 mm reach, and a 9/16˝ hex. The valve diameters were 34 mm for the two intake valves and 37.5 mm for the one exhaust vale.

[Tomsprops]

I have a 2001 E-550 (yes E-550) that is my Work Truck. I had 2 Spark Plugs Blow a a 100,000 miles within 500 miles of each other. I was literally just sitting at a Red Light when each of them went. These early V-10's are know for this. Be Very careful when changing plugs on these engines.

[Blue~Go]

Good info on the casting numbers. Then you can be sure. A note/query though: It shows the three-valve engines in 2003-2005, but I don't think the vans ever got those, right? Of course then they wouldn't have those casting numbers either so it's not like a person could get confused. (Natch the trucks always get the better stuff!)

[Gabbi]

Below is a list of changes of the engine components in relation to the casting number. Many engine remanufacturers refer to the casting number for proper fitment of engine parts. The actual part number of each component is difficult to trace because many of the component part numbers were superseded many times during production.

Cylinder Heads

Casting Number: F7VE – produced from 1997 until 1999 and known as “Non-PI” version. Has rounded intake ports with an open style combustion chamber with one intake valve and one exhaust valve.

YC2E – produced from 2000 until 2001 and known as “PI” version. Has somewhat of a square shaped intake port with more of a closed style combustion chamber which offered a small compression ratio change. Also has one intake valve and one exhaust valve.

1C2E – produced from 2002 until 2004 and known as “PI” version. Same head as the YC2E with differences being to the spark plug threads.

These heads had revisions to the spark plug threads because Ford had issues with the Modular engines (meaning the 4.6 liter and 5.4 liter) prior to this that would blow the spark plugs out. The problem was that there were not enough threads holding the spark plugs in the cylinder heads. Over a period of time the spark plugs would work loose and then blow out, stripping the threads from the cylinder head. There is a service tool and procedure for the prior cylinder heads which will ream the stripped spark plug hole to allow for a new threaded insert for the spark plug.

The 1C2E cylinder head is often referred to as “LP,” meaning long plug.

5C3E – produced from 2005 until 2007, this was the introduction of the three-valve version. This head had two intake valves and one exhaust valve. The spark plugs changed to a different design for the three-valve combustion chamber. The intake ports are an oval shape for the split port design of the two intake valves.

9C3E – produced from 2008 until present and are very similar to the 5C3E except for a smaller combustion chamber which resulted in a small compression change.

From 1997 until 2005 the two-valve version cylinder heads used a spark plug with a 14mm thread, an 18 mm reach, and a 5/8˝ hex. The valve diameters were 44.5 mm intake valve and a 36 mm exhaust valve.

From 2005 until present the three valve version cylinder heads used a spark plug with a 12mm thread, 26.5 mm reach, and a 9/16˝ hex. The valve diameters were 34 mm for the two intake valves and 37.5 mm for the one exhaust vale.

So when I am changing the spark plugs (& coil boots) of my 1997 6.8L Triton V10 (in my '97 Concourse) I cannot use more recent double platinum AC Delco spark plugs but rather a more vintage model of spark plug ?

[Astrodokk]

I would think that if the thread length is the same, you can use your brand. I read that when the inserts get installed, the thread length is the same, just that Ford authorizes an aluminum helicoil type insert, not steel.

Not sure why Ford would say only use aluminum, since that is the reason why the plugs pop out, due to the aluminum heads being softer than the steel threads on the plugs, and of course expansion and contraction.

[chin_k]

my guess is that the steel coil will cause galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum are bad in contact with each others).

[Astrodokk]

I'm looking to see if I will be not only replacing the plugs in my almost 100k mile RV, but also doing the preventative insert installation for peace of mind.
This is the company in California that Blue mentioned. They have two locations: San Diego and Santa Barbara, but they travel as well, for a fee.

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/index.htm They have a www.brokensparkplug.com site too.

They manufacture their own kit in CA, and do not sell it to the public. It seems to be similar to the TimeSert inserts that are mostly used in these rigs by many mechanics due to they can be applied to other car makes as well.

I have been researching and am considering using the beefier CalVan brand insert, which are only specialized for the Ford Triton engine. Both TimeSert and Calvan (and blownout's) are steel alloy. I read that TimeSert also sells an aluminum version for the purists.

I read that using the steel alloy causes a challenge of heat transfer to the head, and may cause detonation. But others say that the alloy is designed to have similar thermal characteristics as the aluminum, and will be a lifetime repair.

The Calvan expert I saw on YouTube (although I'm sure there are others local to you) is also a mobile mechanic based out of Murrieta, CA, and does not travel outside of his local area.

So, I think using the beefier CalVan inserts makes sense. Those are JB Welded, loctited, and torqued down.
The Timeserts are loctited, and torqued to force a pin lock system at the bottom of the insert to lock it in place.
Blownout's also uses Loctite (visually very similar to TimeSert, although TimeSert is made in Reno).

Has anyone used any of these three repair types? The ones from parts stores are usually very thin, compressed types that are considered temporary and have been known to blow out again due to those very thin walls. Some have even been known to overscrew and fall into the cylinder.

I want to do it right the first time and go another 100k miles with no issues.