Thoughts on using donor F-series for 4x4

[68camaro]

I have posted quite a bit about selecting a lift for my 2wd Chinook. I decided to go the lift only route after realizing a 4x4 upgrade from UJooint/Weldtec/Action Van is well over $20k, so basically I'd have well over $40k into rig and I didn't see the value at that point for my particular needs.

Over last week I was having three way conversation with my installer/Weldtec/Action Van about choosing right set up for 4" or 6" lift, the specifics and obstacles like do I keep MorRyde, custom leafs, blocks, add-a-leaf, a combo etc.....Really it became confusing, there is a lot of contradictory information out there and end result is success will really be a combination of Art and science. If one of the three 4x4 builders was doing it alot of guesswork would be taken out and they would adjust as build proceeds.

In discussing trial and tribulation of lift kits available my installed said why don't you just get a donor 4x4 V10 F-series for around $5k and just swap out 4x4 sytem. He estimated 70 hours or less, so we'd be looking at parts/labor of $12k plus tires for a 4x4 lifted to 4-6" and not have to mess around with the issues of tweaking a kit to get it aligned and running properly?

He thought a V10 F-250 or F-350 Superduty 4x4 would work. This is very interesting, does anyone see issues with going this route. He does a lot of fabricating and said although a lot of work its fairly easy just time consuming.

Thoughts.

[markatherton]

Ujoint offroad; Use your existing rear axle; Have custom rear springs made(cannot use lift blocks; Buy ujoint kit, (I prefer the coil spring kit) Buy 1999 to 2006 superduty axle; You will need to buy dually Budd hubs (1982 to 1997) for front; need knuckles, spindles and inner axles from a 1995 to 1997 F350 to convert superduty axle to dually with 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern; Other option; Buy a rusted out 1997 ford Quigley van (coil spring) and use entire front end from donor Quigley. (including trimming out all of the reinforcement brackets; Use your existing rear axle. Buy Quigley upgrade kit from agile offroad (shocks, front coils and swaybar drop brackets). Buy Budd hubs to convert to dually. Buy custom rear springs for the rear (cannot use lift blocks). There are also several mods that need to be made in order to make the abs work....I am skeptical your friend can figure out all of the particulars.

[markatherton]

Forgot to mention the Quigley would need to have a ball joint coil spring front axle, not kingpin, leaf spring: They made both in 1997; Be sure you get the entire van because the frame mounted track bar bracket is obsolete from Quigley. It would be difficult to reproduce it.

[eporter123]

I think Mark's got the knowledge to make the call on this one. Your installer buddy can probably make something work out of a hacked up F-series and a hacked up Chinook. Will it be cheaper? Maybe. Will it be better than or equal to a U-joint kit? Doubtful. They've put a ton of time and engineering into those kits, and have built a ton of vans. If I was going this route I'd be buying the U-joint kit and have it done right the first time.

[68camaro]

Ujoint offroad; Use your existing rear axle; Have custom rear springs made(cannot use lift blocks; Buy ujoint kit, (I prefer the coil spring kit) Buy 1999 to 2006 superduty axle; You will need to buy dually Budd hubs (1982 to 1997) for front; need knuckles, spindles and inner axles from a 1995 to 1997 F350 to convert superduty axle to dually with 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern; Other option; Buy a rusted out 1997 ford Quigley van

Thanks Mark, I agree on difficulty of getting your Quiqley van option correct, plus chance of finding right donor in mid-atlantic might be tough.

I like the Ujoint option, when I originally thought about 4x4, Ujoint would have been it as they are in NC which is less than a day's ride for me. Are you suggesting source my own front axle instead of getting Ujoint Stage 1 or 2, which runs an addition $4k - $5k...ouch.

Is the Budd hubbs and other front gear from 95 - 97 f350 to get front and rear wheels tracking correctly?

[eporter123]

Here's a whole 'nother approach. Apparently the guy swapped the Chinook shell to the 4wd cutaway 6.0 diesel ambo chassis... 4WD conversion AND engine swap in one! Also really like the rear bumper & tire carrier.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nor ... /page-2272

[68camaro]

Here's a whole 'nother approach. Apparently the guy swapped the Chinook shell to the 4wd cutaway 6.0 diesel ambo chassis... 4WD conversion AND engine swap in one! Also really like the rear bumper & tire carrier.

That's pretty sweet but way above my paygrade:)

[Blue~Go]

Pre-tty! I always thought if/when my clearcoat peeled that a solid light grey would be nice. Hotter in the sun, but nice. I think those might be F-150 LED taillights? Nice looking!

Looks like he's a member of the "no roof A/C club" too.

The last photo brings a question to mind. I see many 4WD conversions that sit higher in the front than in the back (i.e. more wheelwell arch space in front). Is there a reason for that? Advantage for four-wheeling?

[markatherton]

The budd hubs are to convert the front single wheel superduty axle to dually with the 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern to match the rear axle. THe budd hubs will not fit on the superduty knuckles (sealed bearing unit) so you have to get knuckles and spindles from 95-97.