Chinook RV

Part of my ongoing interior remodel has been in searching for a suitable replacement for the jackknife sofa. Several websites show DIY builds of expandable sofa to bed frames made of wood. The versatility of these designs intrigues me. While easy to use and cheap, wood doesn't seem be the best solution. The thought of constructing a similar design in light-weight aluminum seems doable. I then found a site which showed how to build a frame using 80/20 extruded aluminum with corresponding brackets and fixtures. Very cool... but hugely expensive. Plus the potential of the large number of screws/brackets/fixtures rattling loose turned me off to the idea. Enter Kintech, Ltd. in the U.K. These guys build bed and seat frames for caravans and other applications. Too bad they don't export, or have a distributor for the U.S.. I inquired to see if they would send plans/schematics so I could have one built locally. As of now, no reply. This is exactly what I was looking for....

Sweet - that's the thinner/metal version of the super nice slat bed.

I've thought the same as you: Using 2 x 4's (or whatever) is not very space efficient. But one idea that might be easier to implement is to have something welded up in 1" tubular steel. Right now I'm re-using much of the original bed "underframe" for that very reason - it's thin/efficient 1" tubular steel. I bought some perforated steel to make crossbars which work pretty well for now. But, having something made up of 1" tubular steel would be better, and not have certain space-wasting features that the original frame has.

On another tack I designed (heh, usng the term loosely) and built a bed platform in a mini van. The challenge was it had to be easy to build with limited tools, readily available materials, fairly cheap, could only be supported at the outer edges, had to be as thin as possible (limited headroom) and not flex (drawers right underneath). Whew.

What I did was get some of the "nice" fir 2 x 2's from Lowe's (they are clear/straight and only 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"). I used them to make a web and then used construction adhesive to glue thin skins top and bottom (cheap 1/8" ply). So total thickness was only 1-1/2". I had the room to put a 1" x 4" "fiddle" on the front edge which added some extra strength, and the "extra" depth protrudes upwards and keeps the foam mattress in place. It came out pretty light, decent looking, and barely flexed at all (less than 1/8") with around 250# standing in the center of a 4' span.

BG.... good idea on using tubular steel. I'm sure that would be less expensive than welding up aluminum. My objectives are to have a MORE comfortable sofa/bed and to increase the space between the sofa and the dinette (hallway)... as you and I both figured out what a difference that made at the rear entry area! Even 4-5 inches makes a big difference. My plan would be a base sofa of at least 30" wide. Have a couple of loose back cushions that would also serve as "filler cushions" if the sofa were pulled out (extended) to make the full bed (meeting up with the dinette).
ps: I've kept the thread on your instructions for removing the jackknife sofa. I'm curious to see your present setup using a portion of the existing frame (?).

I'm building something similar for half of my dinette so it pulls out toward my door (side entry model). This will allow for a full size adult to be able to sleep on the dinette comfortably, once pulled out it will be roughly 6ft long.

Hoosier,

I should get some pics together. OTOH, two things. One is that I used the top cushion/frame from another camper van (so not something most people will have lying around), and two is that there is room for improvement.

But still, I'll describe it (let's call it version one )

First I removed the seat and back, plus the side/scissors mechanism dealie from the original Chinook Flexsteel couch bed. That leaves a base frame of mostly 1" tubular steel, plus a couple of space wasting round bars that run crosswise and connect with the 2 x 4 ledger (original Chinook). This would be more space efficient with regular steel cross bars as the round bars run in odd places (but that was to accomodate the Flexsteel design).

What I had to work with was the seat and back from a camper van. These were proven comfortable units, and were flat (as opposed to the "sculptured" design of the Flexsteel "cushions"). Like many camper van beds the upholstered seat and back were essentially self-supporting, due to a steel frame inside them. So.... how to take advantage of that to minimized what I added to the lower frame? I also wanted to be able to pull out the lower cushion and NOT have extra legs to support the pulled out part (my camper van had linoleum floors and those pull out support legs had scarred the floor).

What I ended up doing was making two telescoping supports. I bought two lengths of 1" bar (Lowe's) that had holes in them at regular intervals, and two lengths of 3/4" tubular steel (no holes).

The two lengths of 1" bar were cut and each one rests on the 2 x 4 Chinook wall ledger on one end, and on the frame on the other end (the frame that has the fold up door for storage access that is behind your ankles when you sit on the couch). Each of these 1" bars is around 18" in from the head/foot of the bed; no more support is needed since the couch cushion is self supporting. Still with me?

On the 2 x 4 ledger end, I used two cut off scraps of the same bar on each side of the main bar, plus a long bolt to make a "hinge." This is so I could adjust the bed if parked off level sideways (like on a street at a curb). On the other end, I drilled and tapped the original frame and screwed some plastic blocks that the perf bar sits between. I didn't want to use regular fasteners through the bar because...

The 3/4" bars side into the 1" bar. They can be pulled out to extend the bed and are strong enough to not need auxilliary legs(depending on size of person and how much they like to jump on the edge of the bed).

Lastly, I drilled and tapped the metal frame that's inside the seat/bed cushion and screwed a bolt into it, then cut off the head. That stub notches into any of the holes in the perforated bar to "stop" the bed at whatever position. There is also a hole in the 3/4" bar to keep it from sliding out when the bed is in.

So, what do I want to change?

1) Nearly two years later, that original seat/bed cushion is starting to show its age, so I may go with a separate base/mattress. Or I may refurbish it, not sure.

2) I want to eliminate those original round bars, because they really break up the under couch storage.

3) I never have done anything "official" with the backrest section (lazy!). It's just resting on the seat cushion and the wall. I'd like it to "hang" such that I can pull the couch base out to have a 30" bed when I still don't want to put the back down to make the 44" bed. The way I have it now, the base cushion is cantilevered slightly, but with the back in place the bed is only 25" wide. If the back were supported independently of sitting on the cushion, I could pull out the base to expose the full 30" of bed without moving the back cushion. Another option would be a less substantial back cushion and then just remove it to... somewhere at night. But that's a pain. Plus, the "structural" back cushion makes a mini coffee table at the back of the couch, which I use all the time.

BTW, I'm on a side trip with a friend who has a larger RV, and we decided to only take one rig (plus a car). It's the friend who bought a Lagun table at the same time as I did. And he actually installed his (imagine!). My bunk is the couch which is where the Lagun table is mounted (44" from the head end). Not too shabby! That said, if I do that in my Chinook it will slightly foil my sliding bed. I did get two mounting plates, so there's that...

And yeah, isn't it amazing the difference 4" or so will make? I still marvel at my "huge" entryway every time I look at it. Never gets old! Side note: I decided to take down the "spice cabinet" and paint it white. My rig's not really sporting the oak look anymore, and I thought that might help it to not loom in my face quite as much when working at the counter. At least visually. Well, after I took it down it rained for a couple of days so I held off on working on it (was going to sand, etc. outside) and by that time I was loving the wide open spaces so much I decided to try not putting it back up. I used that cabinet ALL the time, but you know, I found other places for my coffee and etc. and I don't really even miss it. The kitchen feels huge now, and (somewhat unexpectedly) it makes the entry hall feel even more open. I can always put it back up, but for now I'm digging the open look and not feeling like I have to duck under it when working at the counter ell. Have a topo map up om the wall there now.

BG,
The description does gives a better visual of your sofa mod. Thanks.
I found a full size slat bed at Walmart for only $80 (pic attached) which will serve as "parts" for my sofa/bed build. If cut down the center, each section would be just under 30" wide and with some minor modifications, can be made to function like the Kintech version. The base will temporarily be made from wood 2x2 (mock-up) to get the fit right, and then fabbed from steel tube. I've been thinking about the back cushion set up as well. Something that offers support, protects the side wall, but doesn't permanently take up space. ?

I have not yet installed the Lagun table either. My galley remodel is now back on track after being sidelined most of the summer (sigh).

I removed my spice cabinet from that wall to do new wallpaper. It will not be going back up...I don't need it, and as you said, the "clean wall space" is much more pleasing!

Building this now, it's coming along nice.