Water Heater Replacement

Section for discussion of Chinook interior and appliance issues, repair or installation.
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by inacioface »

Thanks for the replies. My partner and I are not planning on staying at full service sites, we will be boon docking for most of our trip. But, that being said, the SW6DEL model is cheaper than the other options and it allows for both propane and 110V AC so I'm going with that one (I also bought the door and 12V switch).

Here is what I purchased:
SW6DEL Hot water heater: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2 ... YS7Q&psc=1
Switch Assembly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7 ... 0DER&psc=1
Door: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002U ... 0DER&psc=1

I will update this thread with installation progress as parts arrive.
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by inacioface »

Thanks again for the help! I've attached a few images below of the installation process. I still have to strap the back of the water heater to the floor and connect the electrics and water, but I got it physically mounted to the van which I'm excited about. Unlike the previous water heater I purchased and then returned, this one fit perfectly. Similar to most of my other projects in this van, I first had to scrape the rotted wood from the fiberglass and then attach a new wooden frame to the opening. As instructed, I attached the water heater housing to the wooden frame by places a few screws on the inside of the housing and then caulked the door frame to the exterior of the van and attached it using the provide three screws to the water heater housing. Hopefully the electrics and plumbing goes smoothly.
Attachments
PXL_20221210_193843416.jpg
PXL_20221210_193833374.jpg
PXL_20221210_145716580.jpg
PXL_20221210_140757740.jpg
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by inacioface »

Image of the wooden frame:
PXL_20221210_194448194.jpg
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
BobW9
Posts: 252
Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
Location: Full-Time on the Road

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by BobW9 »

Looks great. You're lucky yours fit the opening so well, you didn't need much butyl around it. I'm afraid the manufacturing of them isn't so good as it used to be - the thick metal around it on mine was bending a bit down on top (obviously not from mishandling, but from when it was machined) and I had a sizeable gap I had to fill in with a thick butyl layer. And on top of that, the separate outer panel also had an issue of not being quite straight in one spot, requiring still more butyl.
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by inacioface »

I didn't use any butyl tape on this install (although I wanted to). The instructions stated to use caulk to seal the frame against the opening and control housing so that's what I did. Hopefully it doesn't leak anytime soon :shock:
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
BobW9
Posts: 252
Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
Location: Full-Time on the Road

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by BobW9 »

I use butyl underneath for attaching mounts/brackets/fixtures, as I find caulking needs to be checked each year to see if its wearing down or peeling away. Butyl is also easier when it comes time to remove or repair. Of course, if something need sealing around it, then I use caulking.
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by inacioface »

Since I purchased my vehicle without a hot water heater all of the electrical connections are missing and I'm having trouble determining how to connect the 110V side of the water heater to the distribution panel/breaker box. On the attached image is shows that the power line for the hot water heater should get connected to the distribution panel on slot #4 (using a 14G wire), but is that where the "hot" wire (black) or the neutral wire (white) gets connected? Where does the other wire connect to?

EDIT: I'm assuming I connect the neutral from the water heater to the neutral terminal bar located on the left side of the breaker box, the ground wire connects to the ground terminal bar, and then I connect the "hot" wire to slot #4. Is this correct?
Attachments
BreakerBox.PNG
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
chin_k
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 2257
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Location: Southern CA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by chin_k »

Please be carefully when you work with 110V AC. It can cause fire in your beloved rig, or worst, hurt or kill people.

0, *Very important* Sounds like you are mixing the high voltage AC (water heater and terminal bars) with low voltage DC. They are not compatible so make sure you understand it fully, or ask for help with a licensed electrician. Do not take advice from a random person on the internet if it will affect your property or your health.

1, the AC side is left, and it must be separate from the right side where the low voltage DC items are. They are not interchangeable.
2, The #4 that you are referring to above is for the low voltage DC control circuit for the water heater. It is for control only, and does not heat the water.
3, The 110V AC side does not support AC connection to your AC heater. If you have a double size 30A circuity breaker, you will need to get a single width 30 breaker, and then an appropriated sized breaker for your water heater. Read the heater manual for the size *required*, and the size of wiring required. I assume it should be 15A and you will be using 14/2 Romex with 3 wires.
4, only replace breaker that is compatible for the panel. Do not substitute even if it kind of fit. Read the manual for the panel to make sure all the breakers are the right type, etc.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by inacioface »

chin_k,

I understand everything you said and agree with you which is why I am asking here (and doing my own additional research) before starting the electrical work. From what you mentioned, it sounds like the original water heater in the chinook was not dual powered (i.e. either gas or electric) - it was only gas which is why there isn't a 110V connection for the water heater and I will have to add a breaker for that.

As for the 12V DC side of the panel, where do I connect the negative terminal of the switch? I've attached an image of my distribution panel. It looks different than the distribution panel in the chinook manual.
Attachments
PXL_20221220_212508840.jpg
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
chin_k
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 2257
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Location: Southern CA

Re: Water Heater Replacement

Post by chin_k »

The #1 slot on the DC panel should be brown (looks black to me, but I am sure it is brown in real life). It powers the overhead lights. The red one on #2 looks right. So there is no DC appliances that works in your rig other than the lights?

Anyway, the DC wire from the water heater should be connected to a white wire somewhere on the negative side. The positive side is coming back to the panel directly and is fused. You can connect the negative terminal to a nearby white wire that is connect to the chassis, or you connect it to the chassis directly.

For the AC side, you maybe able to use the 20 amp (red) breaker that looks like there is no wire on it. I think it is suppose to be fore the air conditioner on the roof top. If you are going to install the air conditioner later, then you will need to replace the double-wide (not really technical term) 30 A breaker with one that has two breakers on the same block, like the other two next to it. You will need either a 30-15 breaker if your water heater need 15 amp, or a 30-20 if it uses 20 amp. I would go with the Eaton BRD type breaker.

Label the breaker and the DC fuse properly. Most rig will have some deviation from the official documentation, but yours is just "more" unique. :D
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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