Chinook RV

I just bought a 1978 Chinook Concourse Club Lounge edition with a Ford Chassis B+ Camper. It has a 351 Windsor V-8 engine with a 2 barrel carburetor. Most things were kept stock from what I can tell inside and out. Except a red switch was added into the dash for an extra fuel pump and a cb was added. Also a cassette player which I assume used to be just a push button radio in it day.

My girl and I, with the kids all grown up now will be taking it easy on a slow ride traveling along the California coastline visiting all the beaches along the way. Taking our time enjoying the life. At least that's always been the dream. So, we want to get it done right and do it myself to make sure I can deal with it on the road.

When I left the seller's location in San Diego California I went up a slight incline on a freeway and it stalled. I tried to restart it and it wouldn't. It cranks over great but seems like no gas was getting to the carburetor I even took the air filter off and put my finger in the carburetor see if any gas was there and it was dry. Had to have it towed he had his mechanic work on it and replace a cracked carburetor float. So I'm in Orange county I went back to San Diego to pick it up and was able to drive it all the way home. It ran great and stayed remarkably cool but it was at night.

However, I felt like the carburetor was underpowered for when I stepped on it from time to time it was really hard to push down on the pedal and it seemed to not have any punch, just really slowly increased speed eventually. I was just glad to get it home and thought maybe I need a four barrel carburetor. I really wonder if other Chinook owners have any get up and go when they punch it with the stock 2 barrel carb?

So, I parked it and let it sit for 2 days and then try to start it and it wouldn't start. I waited 10 minutes and did his routine of turning the key on waiting for the fuel pump to stop clicking then pressing the gas pedal twice then starting it and it did start. I let it warm up for five or so minutes jumped on the freeway and it stalled out again with about the same slight incline, it always seems like it's at the onramps. It was doing the same thing as before where it cranked over great seems like it almost start then it wouldn't or it would start for a second or two then stalls out. Yes, both times I had lots of gas in it over half a tank.

I had it towed again to an RV storage yard and now I want to fix or replace the carburetor. I've looked all over for Chilton's guys Hanes guides, videos online I can't seem to find anything similar. My question is does anyone know about this or maybe a video or any directions on how to do this and how to get the original manuals for this vehicle or Chilton or Haynes guides.

I want to try to replace the carburetor myself if it's a two barrel I think putting a four barrel is a good idea because it seemed to bog out when I had to step on a little bit from time to time. I'm not a mechanic but I am mechanically inclined so I want to know how to fix things considering how old this is it seems like a wise idea. I have the money and time to do it right even though I want to keep costs minimal I wouldn't mind beefing up that carburetor like I personally think it should be. Any help would be awesome thanks so much.

Hello and welcome JH,

Haven't seen many chinook on the econoline chassis pre 80's. that's cool.

I think some extra information would help. I am assuming its a 460? Do you plan on keeping it registered in CA? that matters for emissions testing reasons.

The drivability issues your having could be attributed to a fair amount of possibilities with something of that age and setup,

If I had to spitball based on what I have read I would want to establish a baseline for the carburetor due to age and new ownership. I would personally service the unit myself ( i stopped buying reman carbs long ago because of remanufacturing defects ) and while the unit was removed I would test fuel flow to the carb from the tank to make sure I had good steady flow up to that point. then I would visually inspect all the vacuum hoses due to age alone. anything that is cracked, ripped or even looks cracked should get replaced. then get your carb back on, running and tune it and see if the problem went away.

If the motorhome is going to be subject to any emission testing then I would not swap carburetors or intakes. Even if there wont be any smogging in the future I discourage throwing a bunch of parts at a problem hoping the solve the issue. I would get it running the best it can with its oem equipment first then decide if other components of needed for engine performance desires.

Hi sm350bl, thanks for the detailed reply, that helped a lot already. Keeping it stock to get a solid base as you suggested is very wise words. That's the only reason I have been hesitant to upgrade to an Edelbrock 4 barrel 1406 carb. So, I have a 1978 Chinook Concourse Club Lounge edition with a Ford Chassis B+ Camper. It has a 351 Windsor V-8 engine with a 2 barrel carburetor. We will be taking it easy on a slow ride traveling along the California coastline visiting all the beaches along the way. Taking our time enjoying the life. At least that's always been the dream. So, it needs to still be able to pass smog here in California again in November. Maybe, someday traveling to all the state parks and visiting both of our families throughout the country. I updated the post with this additional info as well. Thanks man, John.

YEARS ago I had a 1990 Chinook 460 that stalled out going up a pass with over 3/4 tank of gas.
Trooper pushed me to a safer, more level area & advised me let it cool down then try to start.
It fired up so drove to my mechanic who did fuel flow test. He dropped the tank replaced in tank fuel pump & added an auxilarry fuel pump between tank & engine. A common issue bacck then.
From Central Oregon to Albuquerque & back without a hitch!
Terri

Thanks terriv,
That make sense, maybe the incline makes it harder to get the gas from the tank to the carb so it needs the additional gas pump to handle inclines or something. That's scary if I want to take it up to the mountains which at some point I do. Replacing the carburetor my self is one thing but dropping the tank seems beyond my scope. I think it needs to got into a shop with a lift that can handle the height. Then drop the tank and flush it out. Replace the lines and filter. It has a red switch in the dash for fuel pump so I think the previous owners already did that. Maybe it needs replaced as well. Thanks terriv that helps cover more possibilities to consider.

Is there a way to find out the fuel pressure on these rig? If it starve for fuel, maybe it is a dirty gas filter in the gas tank? or maybe there is a clogged fuel filter between the pump and the carburetor? Look into something easy and simple and make sure they are in specs before doing major complicated "fix" that may not solve anything. I am not familiar with these engine, so you will need to do your own research.