Brass drain petcock replacement

Section for discussion of Chinook interior and appliance issues, repair or installation.
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FatBuoy
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Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by FatBuoy »

Hey all-

I have a 2000 Concourse. I have a slow a leak, and I believe it to be the tank drain petcock by the water pump. When messing with it, the t-handle snapped off, so I need to replace it. Probably did anyway.

That thing seems to be in there very solidly. Has anyone replaced it? Any tips or tricks?

I guess the other question, is, since I need to do something here anyway, is there a way to build a better drain mousetrap? Maybe something that taps in directly to the tank that would fix the super slow draining?
2001 Premier aka "Anookie"
Dallas, TX area
earlnash
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Joined: August 24th, 2020, 5:42 pm

Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by earlnash »

Similar problem in my 2003 Concourse - no leak, but the wings/handle on the petcock have broken off. What to do?

Let me know if you learn more....

Thanks

EarlNash
chin_k
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by chin_k »

I assume it is just glued into the hole with some chalking, no? (Obviously, I never did this before, but that does not prevent me from posting misleading info so that other can learn from YOU when you mess up ;)). If the stem of the valve are still there, you maybe able to still use it with a pair of pliers that you should carry with you in the RV anyway...

I think it is a good thing for the slow drain, since I do not want to lost all the water quickly if I forget to close the petcock, or it was opened by mistake. Frankly, if I need to clean it, I will schedule my time for the slow drain. Prefer that than unexpected empty tank when I need the water in the middle of Death Valley.

I would only re-route the existing setup if replacement does not fit, or if you are putting in a wintering kit. I won't bother with wintering kit since you are in relatively frost free location.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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FatBuoy
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by FatBuoy »

earlnash wrote: February 12th, 2022, 9:56 am Similar problem in my 2003 Concourse - no leak, but the wings/handle on the petcock have broken off. What to do?

Let me know if you learn more....

Thanks

EarlNash
So how in the heck do you drain it now? I had better hurry up before yours turns to black mush!!! :lol:
2001 Premier aka "Anookie"
Dallas, TX area
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FatBuoy
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by FatBuoy »

chin_k wrote: February 12th, 2022, 10:05 am I assume it is just glued into the hole with some chalking, no? (Obviously, I never did this before, but that does not prevent me from posting misleading info so that other can learn from YOU when you mess up ;)). If the stem of the valve are still there, you maybe able to still use it with a pair of pliers that you should carry with you in the RV anyway...

I think it is a good thing for the slow drain, since I do not want to lost all the water quickly if I forget to close the petcock, or it was opened by mistake. Frankly, if I need to clean it, I will schedule my time for the slow drain. Prefer that than unexpected empty tank when I need the water in the middle of Death Valley.

I would only re-route the existing setup if replacement does not fit, or if you are putting in a wintering kit. I won't bother with wintering kit since you are in relatively frost free location.
Good points, thanks!. But on the Winterizing thing, did you hear what happened down here last year??? 0 degrees for a couple of days. And we got into the teens here this Winter already. I did fully Winterize, just to be safe.
2001 Premier aka "Anookie"
Dallas, TX area
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caconcourse
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by caconcourse »

I used the petcock one time when I first got the Chinook. It was so slow, I thought it was a mistake. The quickest way to drain the freshwater tank is to turn on the pump, open a faucet and let the pump do the work. If you have an outdoor shower, you can just open it up outside. If not, you can use a sink faucet, and drain through the gray tank and dump valve.
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
BobW9
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by BobW9 »

The petcock valve has the usual Pex tubing going down from it through the floor, no caulking or anything, just slides in (at least mine did). However. Pulling the petcock valve up was not easy because of the tubing going into it, which is what is holding it in place. The slowness of the outlet is due to the design of that petcock, not the size of the tubing in the floor. I agree with caconcourse, until I replaced all my freshwater tubing I always just used the pump to force water out, rather than use the petcock.
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
chin_k
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by chin_k »

I would change the needle valve to a full port ball valve so that it will drain faster. I guess they went cheap on this part, figured that most people only use it 2 or 3 times a year.

BTW, you should not have to touch that petcock to investigate your leak... but I guess it is frustrating thing to do when the tubing is in your way. Mine wiggles a bit, so I think if I don't care about my 3-way valve, I can just yank it out of the floor if I have to.

I heard about the issue with the electric grid and the weather. I guess you would need to run your propane furnace if it has no shore power. Can't image that it got that cold in the cowboy country, but you are right. It is 90+ F in past several days here, but we did have a few 40's that got some of my plants to wilt :(
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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FatBuoy
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by FatBuoy »

chin_k wrote: February 12th, 2022, 2:53 pm I would change the needle valve to a full port ball valve so that it will drain faster. I guess they went cheap on this part, figured that most people only use it 2 or 3 times a year.

BTW, you should not have to touch that petcock to investigate your leak... but I guess it is frustrating thing to do when the tubing is in your way. Mine wiggles a bit, so I think if I don't care about my 3-way valve, I can just yank it out of the floor if I have to.

I heard about the issue with the electric grid and the weather. I guess you would need to run your propane furnace if it has no shore power. Can't image that it got that cold in the cowboy country, but you are right. It is 90+ F in past several days here, but we did have a few 40's that got some of my plants to wilt :(
Well, I thought that maybe the petcock was the source of the leak. I did get it out, by the way. I like your idea of the ball valve. Perhaps I'll see about going that route.

Yeah...last Winter...we had no lectricty (as they say in TX) for 43 hours. It was in the low 40's in the house, but we rode it out with our camping gear!
2001 Premier aka "Anookie"
Dallas, TX area
chin_k
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Re: Brass drain petcock replacement

Post by chin_k »

I think you figured it out already, but the petcock can't be the source of leak, since there is a 3-way valve before it. If someone told you to check the petcock for the leak, he should be fired.

Seriously, I think it is either your pump, or something else along the line there that leaked. Small leak is a pain to find.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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