Concourse 4x4 conversion

[68camaro]

For the flooring, the issue is that vinyl is not very stable dimensionally if there is a large temperature swings. I don't think a thicker plank will help that much, but maybe the stronger way they attached to each other may help. If you glue the edge pieces, and let the middle float, the planks may still detached from each others. Should discuss this on a separate thread, however.

I'd be interesting in a flooring thread to see what you are doing and how it works out. I have thought about new flooring for long time but I wear my spiked wader boots in back ALL the time, so not sure if I want to mess with it. I am thinking I could put rugs down and just walk on them.

[JabberBox]

I already picked out the Fox shocks i plan to install on it this time, but they are $429 dollars each for the fronts. Thats primarily because they have that extra little reservoir and are adjustable in terms of compression rate, which should allow me to fine tune the things for this truck. Fox part #: 985-26-121. Not that i want to spend that kind of money on a pair of shocks, but i actually need that added ability to fine tune the compression rate on this truck. It depresses me to think i have to spend $900 bucks on a pair of shocks, then of course i will have to have a match pair for the rear eventually. I just spent way to much money on this trucks suspension not to have it dialed in absolutely perfect, and i hate feeling like im riding a pogo stick when im doing 40 mph and go over one of those low valley's at some of the intersections around here.

[JabberBox]

Heres one of the one off custom axle shafts i had made specifically for this project. They are made from 300M double heat treated high silicone steel, the claim is they are 30% stronger than a stock factory axle. I also had them torsion turned due to concerns about the inside diameter of the bearing spindles. I dont think many people give much thought as to how much torque is being thrown at the rear axles on a 10,400 pound truck when they shift it into 4x4 low. Alot of guys in teh 4x4 world believe it or not use a boring tool to ream out the inside of the spindles so they can run larger diameter axle shafts. Ultimately what happens is the spindle is weakend to the point where it actually bends or snaps off once they start abusing the truck. I just dont do things that way.

[68camaro]

It depresses me to think i have to spend $900 bucks on a pair of shocks, then of course i will have to have a match pair for the rear eventually. I just spent way to much money on this trucks suspension not to have it dialed in absolutely perfect......

It's amazing the rabbits hole we find ourselves....LOL One thing always leads to another....In the end it's all worth it though.

[68camaro]

Heres one of the one off custom axle shafts i had made specifically for this project. They are made from 300M double heat treated high silicone steel, the claim is they are 30% stronger than a stock factory axle. I also had them torsion turned due to concerns about the inside diameter of the bearing spindles. I dont think many people give much thought as to how much torque is being thrown at the rear axles on a 10,400 pound truck when they shift it into 4x4 low. Alot of guys in teh 4x4 world believe it or not use a boring tool to ream out the inside of the spindles so they can run larger diameter axle shafts. Ultimately what happens is the spindle is weakend to the point where it actually bends or snaps off once they start abusing the truck. I just dont do things that way.

Also a picture of how the truck currently sits in the rear with no spacers under the leaf springs, all stock E-350 brackets and shackles on the frame. Now that most all of the issues have been ironed out i may swap back to the original spring perches i had in front which will raise the front back up 1" inch.DSC02920.JPG DSC03015.JPG

How may inches is it from the ground to top of rear wheel well, and from ground to bottom of black water valve?

[JabberBox]

Not certain at this point. Those tires are 31.5" inches tall so just looking at the picture it would be well over 40" inches to the fender lip. I will measure them later today and let you know. But your right about it being a rabbit hole.

Measured and the ground to the bottom of the rear fender lip is exactly 41" inches. The lowest point of the drain valve assembly is the black tank valve and it measures 15 1/2" inches from the ground. But keep in mind thats 41" inches with no spacer of any type between the axle housing and the leaf springs. Depending how she sits once i swap the front spring perches again the rear may get a 1" inch spacer block, which will make it 42" to the fender lip and 16 1/2" to the valve.

The Fox shocks i have picked out are for running the taller spring perch in front so just figure 16 1/2" and 42" inches.
If i leave the current spring perches in front i will have to run a shorter shock. The Fox shock specs are as follows...
Extended - 24.37"
Compressed - 14.75"
Travel - 9.62"

[noluck]

Hi Jabberbox, i just joined the forum and starting my big swap. i really liked reading the posts that are left, i was also challenged with axles to use but have got a plan in motion, i am going to end up with 8x200 wheels but with adaptors from the 8x170 axles i am going to use a 1999 superduty axle srw. i am cummins swapping mine as well, did you end up at the 72" flange to flange with your axle? thanks Dave

[JabberBox]

I used a 2005 F-350 dually front axle in mine with coil springs. With the factory front dually adapters in place they are the correct width for the Van chassis in terms of track width if youre running a dually wheel. Even the 2005 + axles have the 8x170mm unit bearings on front. They achieve the 8x200mm pattern by bolting the 8x200mm dually adapter onto the front 8x170mm unit bearings.

I dont recommend running aftermarket wheel adapters on a heavy truck like these things, but if you do i would highly suggest you get steel adapters not aluminum. You can get whatever you need from this guy https://www.wheeladapter.com/

You plan to toss a cummins engine in it which will produce more torque than the gas engines. Its highly likely that your current rear axle has 32 spline axle shafts in it. Meaning once you finish your swap and you shift your truck into 4x4 low those little axles are likely to snap or twist under the weight of your truck. When you shift into 4x4 low all of that torque is multiplied by the transfercase. At a minimum you need to upgrade your existing 32 spine axles and carrier to 35 spline.

I no longer have specific measurements that relate to the front axle width because the external drive i stored all of that information on crashed and i was unable to recover the information i had stored on it such as photos, PDF files, etc... Obviously i still have information in my head but that isnt one of the measurements i committed to memory.

[noluck]

that is exactly my plan, the rear axle is a sterling 10.5 the same axle i have in my 2010 f350 that also is cummins powered, the 1999 is 68" wide and with the 2" adaptors will bring me to the 72" the dana 60 is that is under the van. happy to get that part behind me and use the 2005 front axle

[JabberBox]

Well you should probably do a whole bunch of research before you try stuffing a sterling pickup axle underneath a dually E-series chinook. The pickup rear sterling axles are narrower than the E-series dually axle. It isnt just tire clearance between the leaf springs that are a concern.... Have a look at this image and look at the lack of clearance between the leaf springs and the brake rotor. If that axle housing was any narrower the brake calipers would be sitting underneath the leaf spring.... I guess a guy could throw 4 inch lift blocks between the axle and the leaf springs and not worry about it, but thats not really what i would consider a solution...

The leaf springs are fixed, theres nothing you can do to move them inwards even if you wanted to. You can certainly use 2" inch spacers to move your tires out away from the leaf springs, but your not going to move your calipers and rotors. So again, i would measure your sterling axle at least 6 times and then when you think you know everything there is to know about its dimensions measure it again and then measure your chinooks 6 times and compare them.

The correct solution is figuring out how to retain your existing rear axle...