Chinook RV

Like some others I've read about, I've been weighing the pros and cons of all different backup cam scenarios. I really like the concept of replacing the stereo with a nice Double DIN unit with Apple Car Play, Bluetooth, DVD player and camera. That would permit me to do just about everything, and keep the cockpit less cluttered. All of the units I see have jacks on the back for one or two cameras, but designed for direct wiring rather than wireless to a camera.

I really prefer wireless, as I would like the camera up high, and don't want to have to cut holes in the fiberglass to run/feed the wire. If down low, it could be run under the RV along the frame, but I want higher visibility. So...my question is, is there a reliable way to make a double DIN system into a wireless one? As in, some type of transmitter on the back of the stereo unit that would send the signal to a wireless camera? That would be nirvana for what I'm trying to do.

I did see some very inexpensive units on Amazon that come with a wireless license plate camera, but they look VERY cheap and don't have some of the features I'm looking for, such as Apple Car Play.

I bought the basic wired model from RearviewSafety.com. They have many models, including wireless. I had a car stereo installer install it, camera centered above the rear door, in a repurposed center running light hole. The monitor is on a mount fit to an oak piece that snugs into a cup holder on the console. The cable runs under the chassis and up around the door post somewhere. I have it wired to be normally on with the ignition switch on all the time for rear view under way forward and reverse. It has worked well for several years now. Primitive mode suits me.

Roly

Roly wrote: August 23rd, 2020, 2:01 pm I bought the basic wired model from RearviewSafety.com. They have many models, including wireless. I had a car stereo installer install it, camera centered above the rear door, in a repurposed center running light hole. The monitor is on a mount fit to an oak piece that snugs into a cup holder on the console. The cable runs under the chassis and up around the door post somewhere. I have it wired to be normally on with the ignition switch on all the time for rear view under way forward and reverse. It has worked well for several years now. Primitive mode suits me.

Roly

Funny you say that. I was just investigating the holes behind the running lights, and wondering if you could feed a wire down through one. Do you happen to know how he ran it from up there to the exit underneath, as in its path? And where, exactly, it exits? I was thinking if I could route it down inside, I could keep the wire inside, rather than underneath, and then feed it behind the dash to the stereo unit. But under the chassis could work too.

With a transceiver kit similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY ... 69NC&psc=1 any camera can be turned into a wireless camera into the head unit. The camera inputs to the head units is generally a yellow rca video cable jack, and a wired camera usually has a yellow video output rca jack. Inserting a transceiver set in between makes it wireless.

caconcourse wrote: August 23rd, 2020, 3:53 pm With a transceiver kit similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY ... 69NC&psc=1 any camera can be turned into a wireless camera into the head unit. The camera inputs to the head units is generally a yellow rca video cable jack, and a wired camera usually has a yellow video output rca jack. Inserting a transceiver set in between makes it wireless.

Thanks, Clay. I started researching those. For the most part, the reviews aren’t very kind. Delays, fuzzy image, blinking off, etc. I’m starting to lean toward wired, now, if I can figure out the routing without having to drill.

I was pretty skeptical of wireless myself. Also it is not really wireless, since you still need to tap into 12V to power the camera, and some kind of reverse indicator if you want the camera to come on automatically. However, even a wired video needs some consideration. I ran a 20' video extension cable to get my signal to the radio and it was too weak to get through the cable. Fortunately, I had run a Cat-5 (Ethernet) cable alongside, and spliced the video to a twisted pair in the cat-5 that worked well. I used another wire in the cable to pass the reverse signal, which I tapped into the driver rear backup light power wire.

You can access quite a few wires by removing the cardboard ceiling panel above the rear door. (push in the bottom then lift up and pull). I think you can get to the yellow marker light wires in there near where you want to mount your camera. If you can fish a cable (cat-5 for example) between there and the storage compartment in front of the spare tire, you can get access to the backup light for a reverse signal, and you can go through the floor from there to get under the truck. My cable runs along the frame (my camera is in the rear step), and I tapped into the trailer harness for 12V. There are existing wires that go along the frame, and enter the cab through the door step (under the plastic molded step cover) and into the dash. That is just one possibility.

The head units now often have multiple camera inputs, plus one dedicated to the reverse camera that you can warning lines to. I split my camera video with a splitter, so it comes in both the reverse camera input and a second camera input. You can turn on the aux camera display through the touch screen if you want to look at the camera when driving, but the reverse input comes on automatically when the the truck is put in reverse, which is good for safety. In practice, however, I never turn on the camera while driving, but if I were towing, it could be useful.

I put in a dual camera system. Because I use my camera as a rear view mirror it is on all the time (not wired to reverse). The extra camera is used as a surveillance camera and is on a 15 foot cable. It can be set on the table or dash while parked. I put my rear camera above the back door. That allowed to run the wiring down into the rear storage compartment and up the drivers side behind the kitchen cabinets and couch to the drivers compartment. It took some work to run the wires but not difficult if you take your time. I wanted to keep the wires inside the coach. This system has worked quite well for me.

My write up is here.
viewtopic.php?p=15118#p15118

caconcourse wrote: August 23rd, 2020, 6:43 pmYou can access quite a few wires by removing the cardboard ceiling panel above the rear door. (push in the bottom then lift up and pull).

That's what I was hoping to do. I didn't see a button, though. I have two screws at the two top corners that I removed, but the panel didn't budge.

Also, you mentioned a yellow marker light. Mine are all red across the top. Are you referencing something different?

The carpeted panel above the rear entry door on my 2004 Premier is held in on by finish screws thru the wood piece at the ceiling. After removed that carpeted panel simply pulls down. It allows you to see the backs of the marker lights as well as provides the path for wires down to the storage compartment. My panels in my storage compartment needed to be removed to access that area. (It also provides access to the sink plumbing and rear bath/shower enclosure. Hope that makes sense.

FatBuoy wrote: August 25th, 2020, 5:32 am

caconcourse wrote: August 23rd, 2020, 6:43 pmYou can access quite a few wires by removing the cardboard ceiling panel above the rear door. (push in the bottom then lift up and pull).

That's what I was hoping to do. I didn't see a button, though. I have two screws at the two top corners that I removed, but the panel didn't budge.

Also, you mentioned a yellow marker light. Mine are all red across the top. Are you referencing something different?

I have to read some post a couple times to make sure I read it correctly. What Clay said is push in the bottom portion of the panel, not button. Also, the wire color of the red marker light is yellow, not a yellow marker light.

Trail Wagons often change configuration, but for the most part, they are pretty consistent.