Hot Water Heater Anode

[Skillet]

I want to change the anode because I don't know when it was last looked at. The heater works fine but who knows what's going on in there. I've been dousing this with WD40 because it looks like it's going to be difficult to take off. Any suggestions or just try and remove it? Can it strip?

[Manitou]

not sure about if you can strip it or not. It takes a fairly large socket (can maybe borrow from autozone or somewhere). Might come out easier than it looks.

[Skillet]

That's what I'm hoping. I have some large sockets that I haven't tried yet. I even noticed that at my local rv dealer in their camping section they have a dedicated wrench that looks like it's that size. Made just for heater anode removal. If I don't have something here, I'll go on my next break and see if theirs fits.

[robtbritn]

I've had good luck with PB Penetrating Catalyst, works much better than WD-40. Available at most hardware stores.
Give it a good soaking for a couple of days, reapplying several times...should break it loose with no worries!
http://www.blastercorp.com/PB_Blaster.html

Before installing a new rod you will want to flush out the water heater as there will most likely be lots of crud in there. I use one of these fresh water tank fillers with flexible clear hose on on end and shutoff on other end that attaches to garden hose.
http://www.camco.net/Products/Item?prod ... bK3PvmrGzk

I replace rod annually.

[Concourse]

As mentioned its a good thing to change annually if you use the water heater. Water sources all have their own issues (chemical). Also recommended, because you haven't had your anode rod out yet and there looks to be some corrosion, is PB Blaster to make sure the threads can be freed. Yes, you can strip any threaded thing by over torqueing it (putting it back in, not when taking it out). The anode takes a 1 1/16" socket and I use a small extension between the socket and the ratchet because the rod farther in than outside of the coach. That's one and one sixteenth of an inch. Sacrificial rods are $20 and the water heater is $300+ and a lot of effort to replace (see other thread here on that. Don't recall who did it recently, Manitou?).

[Skillet]

I use one of these fresh water tank fillers with flexible clear hose on on end and shutoff on other end that attaches to garden hose.
http://www.camco.net/Products/Item?prod ... bK3PvmrGzk I replace rod annually.

Not only do I have that tank filler, but I picked up the water heater flush wand http://www.camco.net/Products/Item?prod ... bLXaflVhBc in anticipation of the day I removed the anode. I'll look for the PB Blaster and apply that.

[Concourse]

PB Blaster is at ALL of the auto parts chain stores. Look for it near the WD40, carb cleaners, etc. It isn't snake oil...it works.

I could have used one of those water tank fillers today. I use the hose pinch technique to keep the water from flowing while I go from turning on the water source to the coach to hold the hose. I've gotten a little tired of that so as I stood there today filling the water tank for a weekend dry camp (dry...ha ha) I thought of getting a water valve for the hose end. That's really all I need.

[Blue~Go]

One more tip on the anode rod removal. When I removed mine for the first time, a bunch of water plus a bunch of white scale came out. You can save a bunch of crud getting around the lower (battery) compartment door rim and hinge if you make sure to have that closed and even plus perhaps tape a sheet of plastic on the body just below the water heater opening. Then if there is gross crudwater you can just keep it out of things completely.

I also used a 1-1/16" socket, BTW.

[Skillet]

Thanks for the socket size and the plastic idea!