Chinook RV

I know there is another thread on here that outlines a gimmicky way of bypassing the vacuum switch and accumulation tank. This is a way to actually fix the problem. Cut an opening in the inner fender as outlined in the pictures. This will expose the vacuum valve and tank. When I opened mine the vacuum hose was so deteriorated from the ethanol fumes it had literally just fallen off of the nipple on the vacuum tank. Easy fix. Replace with new 4 inch piece of vacuum hose. Then the harder part is to make a cover for the opening. You will want to make a cover that is about 1/2 inch bigger all the way around so you can attach it with screws. That way it is removable and you can regain access at any time. It took about 15 minutes to do the repair. I will make an access plate tomorrow. Mark in San Diego.

markatherton wrote: June 26th, 2019, 12:55 pm I know there is another thread on here that outlines a gimmicky way of bypassing the vacuum switch and accumulation tank.

I don't see the "gimmicky" label.

After all the "correct" fix is to remove much of the dash/AC, etc. Takes many hours and who knows what may not go back 100% correctly (especially if paying someone else). Also, it's not re-accessible without the full procedure again. This was historically the proper Ford dealer fix. $$$

As time went by, some DIY-ers discovered you could cut a hole in the fender (as you show) and so that was one alternative fix. (Alternative A)

As more time went by, some DIY-ers discovered that you could bypass the original (failed) canister and check valve and install new ones in an accessible location under the dash (or elsewhere). (Alternative B)

I understand that many Ford dealers do Alternative B now; not whether or not any do Alternative A.

I don't see why alternative B would be any more "gimmicky" than Alternative A? Neither is the original "proper" fix, and both alternatives work.

I just wrapped up doing this job on a 01 e350. Same condition as above, the vacuum line between the check valve and reservoir was deteriorated. Here at work, we always remove the evaporator case and heater core section of the interior off the firewall and replace the oem reservoir and or related parts. its a job I dread, but we consider it the proper repair. Even though my last one was just the deteriorated vacuum line there was no way i wasn't going to replace the plastic reservoir tank while I had the whole unit out. Also give's us a good chance to freshen up the a/c by replacing the evap coil and accumulator / orifice tube. in my last case the old heater hose crimped connection broke off on the heater core when I tried to release it so I put new heater hoses on the bus and we see it as that prevented a roadcall due to blown off heater hose during a route. Of course there is a big difference between a company ran fleet and a private owner. I can definitely understand the allure of using A and B repairs vs total disassembly. huge cost / time difference.

Guess you have your opinion and I have mine. You are bypassing a factory ford system with an aftermarket O'reilly system.

markatherton wrote: June 29th, 2019, 6:45 am Guess you have your opinion and I have mine. You are bypassing a factory ford system with an aftermarket O'reilly system.

A little perspective here. You are talking about a plastic tank and a vacuum check valve. Not exactly rocket science. And the Ford parts aren't that great or they wouldn't fail so often, along with being designed to be practically unserviceable.

markatherton wrote: June 29th, 2019, 6:45 am Guess you have your opinion and I have mine. You are bypassing a factory ford system with an aftermarket O'reilly system.

Although I would imagine one could do the Alternative B repair with an OEM vacuum tank and check valve from Ford (but put in the accessible under-dash location), couldn't they? I saw that some used other vacuum reservoirs (from other stock OEMs), some made them (PVC pipe) and some bought aftermarket ones. But the Ford one must be purchasable, and could then be used for either the "Ford correct" repair, Alternative A, or Alternative B.

I have not done mine yet, but will use Alternative B. If I do use a non-OEM part, it looks as though it could easily be replaced by the OEM one later. Is it anything but a reservoir and check valve? I normally only use Ford or OEM parts but usually they are something a bit more than a container. I was thinking the alternatives were more about location, ease of repair, and ease of future accessibility rather than people trying to "get away with" substandard parts.

OTOH, maybe there is something superior about the Ford reservoir - do you by any chance have the part number for it? (And is the V10 one the same as the diesel one do you know?) I'd happily use one if there is an advantage (but in an accessible location as I imagine it could fail again if plastic and rubber).

BG

PS: I also sometimes use non-Ford parts if it is something I understand or have researched and ascertain is superior. For example some John Wood parts in my transmission (original had a weak point prone to issues); Roadmaster anti-sway bar; Koni shocks; Mobil 1 oil. Other times I stick with Ford (oil filters, new front end and brakes, spark plugs, etc.)

markatherton wrote: June 29th, 2019, 6:45 am Guess you have your opinion and I have mine. You are bypassing a factory ford system with an aftermarket O'reilly system.

I might have over stepped, and I apologize if I did Mark. My intention was to provide some extra insight into a tedious job vs pressing any opinion.

I welcome all input. Healthy debate results in more information and a better informed decision resulting in better decisions for all.

markatherton wrote: July 1st, 2019, 8:08 am I welcome all input. Healthy debate results in more information and a better informed decision resulting in better decisions for all.

I think where I got a little stuck was your calling the "other" alternative repair "gimmicky" (as opposed to the alternative repair you favor). That can tend to discourage healthy debate, IME.

Another comment: I think we have two factors here that aren't necessarily connected.

1) Parts used for repair of failed system. These can be Ford/OEM or aftermarket and would consist of some or all of vacuum canister, check valve, vacuum hose, and hose connectors.

2) Method of repair which includes the location of the replacement parts.

Mark, at first I thought you were referring to #2 when you said "gimmicky" (under dash vs. cut hole in fender liner); but then in a subsequent post you mentioned "O'Reilly parts" as though that were the gimmicky part. But in reality Ford parts could be used for Alternative B (the one under the dash you are not fond of), or aftermarket parts could be used for Alternative A (cut hole in fender which you approve of).

I'm all for having alternatives as long as they do the job as well or better than the original - and they don't cause future maintenance headaches. Requiring the dash/heater core/AC parts/etc. to be removed to replace a plastic canister, check valve, and rubber hose ('cause we all know those are lifetime parts ) seems like a poor enough decision by Ford that it seems perfectly reasonable to consider alternative repairs (plus what about the NEXT time?).

My baseline is always original way with Ford/OEM parts, but I also look at alternatives - especially if there is a good reason or improvement.