Chinook RV

Blue's reply in the Classified subforum prompted me to think about two scenarios, and I wonder if any of you have any comment.

For some people, the Chinook is being stored or unused for 3-10 months continuously. Let says it is due for oil change at the beginning of the period. Is it better to :
1, change the oil right away, so that the engine will be soaking in nice, clean oil.
2, change the oil just before it is time to bring out the rig, so that the engine will be running with nice, fresh oil for the long trip, instead of oil that has been sitting in the oil pan for 3-9 months already.

(I guess #2 may not be practical for everyone if the rig needs to be driven to mechanics for oil change, but some of us can do it in our driveway.)

I would say #1. If I remember correctly the idea is that used oil isn't just "dirty", but also it contains acids and other components that can be harmful to metal. So change in the fall (or before layup) so clean oil is in there for the duration. I don't think that new oil is going to become compromised while the rig is stored. Maybe if it were *years* I'd change again before the next commissioning, but I guess I'd have to research on that one.

Fresh oil has a very long shelf life so I’d also go with #1. Don’t forget to change the filter as well.

The main cause of engine oil deterioration is contamination by combustion byproducts that exhaust the additive package designed to protect against acids and sludge buildup. Frequent start/stop thermal cycles accelerate this mode of deterioration.

The Owner’s Handbook sets a time limit of 3 months on oil’s fitness for duty after “severe” service. Storage longer than that with used oil is not the best policy, especially when you can invest in 6 Qts. of Motorcraft 5W-20 plus an FL-820S filter for under $30. Think of this as a cheap insurance policy.

I'm no great mechanic but at 67 I still get under all my vehicles and change my own oil as the best insurance against engine failure. I've only owned one brand new vehicle in my life - a 1971 VW Camper - and it fried its valves at 55,000 miles in the grand tradition of all air-cooled engines. Since then almost every vehicle I've bought has had over 100K miles when purchased so I've been religious about oil changes and even with synthetics I change it at 5,000 miles for my Navigator and annually for the Chinook. Which reminds me - I need to do my oil change on my rig this week. That and flushing and refilling my water system and I'm ready for Spring.

Haven't read the owner's manual yet about oil change intervals but I see here that the consensus is every 5k miles or every year if not driven much.
I used to do my older cars at 3k miles.
My question here is, at 93K miles now, and last oil change according to sticker on windshield was around 89K and not due until 3/19, (but I did drive it cross country this past week), what oil should I use?
I've been told that older engines should stick with regular oil due to thickness of it and less burning, but others have said that the synthetics are so good now that even on older engines it would be a good idea.

I'll be going to the dealer for this first change so that they can inspect the rig thoroughly and give me suggestions as to what needs to be done additionally.

I still change the oil in my Chinook and 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Super easy on the Chinook. My wife's Jeep Cherokee and my Dodge Challenger go to the dealer for oil changes as they are both fairly new and under warranty. IMO The cost is comparable to quick lube places and is simpler if a warranty issue should arise. I also get an email when they are due (or when my tire pressure is low lol). On my wife's Jeep the oil change light will come on anywhere from 3000 to 10000 miles depending on how it has been driven but never should exceed more than 10K or 1 year. That said I will stick with a 5K mile change schedule on all my vehicles.

Astrodokk:
After a cross country trip it wouldn't hurt to change it especially if you are done using it for a while. (5-20w on my V-10). Because you are from Seattle I will mention that not all Ford Dealers in this area will work on an Econoline based motorhome. Horizon (formerly Sea-Tac Ford Trucks) is an option choice as they deal with heavy trucks. I have had good luck and treatment there. I have been declined by a few dealers. Bickford, Harris, and Sound Ford are just a few that won't.

On the regular vs synthetic issue I won't say one is better. I follow the the most important rule is to make sure and change it. Talking oil on any auto based forum usually devolves into heated arguments (but I doubt that would happen here) so these are just my opinions.

Sman, thanks for the heads up for an oil change location. Weird that local dealers won't do it. I used to take my 28' Airstream on a P30 Chevy chassis to Oil Stop all the time, no problems. That's where I may start going after this initial dealer job.
I hear you about oil debates. I have read them, as well as the air filter debates...paper vs K sprayed.

One thing I really like is the Fumoto valve. Makes oil changes super easy and tidy. You put it in place of your oil drain plug (so install it during an oil change). Then you can attach a piece of hose (that feeds into a container), open a valve, and Voila.

There are valves with no nipple, a half-sized nipple or a full-sized one. The full sized one allows easy attachment of a hose. The half-sized one you put an elbow in and then attach a hose. The no-nipple one is not quite as easy, but I suppose still easier than the regular plug (however you can't just attach a hose).

With some vehicles the valve protrudes in such a way that you would want to minimize it, or even just forget about it. But that's not really the case on the V-10. It's kind of on an angle and not dragging knuckles or anything. They do make a clip you can put on it if you want to double lock it.

I've gone down plenty of two-tracks, desert, etc. and never had a problem with it. I also put one on my car a couple of years ago (which I take down much crazier roads). It's especially nice if you are changing your oil "out in the wild' and want to be tidy and not have it look like you are rebuilding your engine. I still throw on a Tyvek suit, and put down a tarp; but they rarely get dirty. (Contrast to the first oil change I did on the Chinook, with just the regular plug and when it was windy (in a grassy area so no blowing dirt). The oil blew out sideways --- what a mess! I had a tarp down but I had to throw it away, plus my Tyvek, half a roll of paper towels, and a bunch of gloves. Ugh. Now I can use "the previous" oil jug and it's easy peasy .... ahhh.

I realize some would prefer the regular drain plug; this is just my preference (after being skeptical enough to put off installing one for literally years after I first had one recommended to me).

BG

PS: BTW, I use Mobil One full synthetic in the extended change interval variety, which allows up to 15k between changes. I typically do change it within 5,000 miles (or oftentimes less if fall comes along and I haven't gone that far, because I like it to sit over the winter with clean oil). But when traveling in summer, every once in awhile it's not convenient to change it right at 5k (due to location, or there's a fire and I need to roll, or whatever), and this way I don't have to worry about it for a bit longer (I would never go 15k, though, plus there is the filter to think about, but it does allow a bit of flexibility). I do my own so it's more about where I am parked and how convenient it is to drop off of the used oil.

I had mine with the half-nipple Fumoto valve, and it certainly make it much easier to do oil change. The very first time with the oil plug on there, I dropped the oil filter, and it rolled down the slope for good 10 feet and made a big mess. This was caused mostly by the grease on my hand when I handled the filter. Now, the gloves hardly get greasy at all.

One mystery is that I put a plastic cap over the Fumoto valve, in addition to the clip. But every time after I came back from a trip, I always find the cap missing. This drives me nuts. I never see any damage to the oil pan or the valve, so I don't know if it was knocked off or anything.

I'm not familiar with the cap -- is it just a loose fit? Since oil gushes out (not in) maybe there is no need (but I get that it's a mystery you want solved).