While trying to fix the leaky refrigerator access panel I noticed that several other doors needed attention. To re-seat these would I be better off using butyl tape, rubber gaskets, or a wet area caulk?
Thanks in advance.
Butyl tape, rubber gasket, or caulk?
Butyl tape, rubber gasket, or caulk?
Riste
1997 Concourse 460
1997 Concourse 460
Re: Butyl tape, rubber gasket, or caulk?
I have used all three (boats) and I like *good* butyl tape. I have tried many, and the only modern butyl tape I would use is Bed-It. It's the only one I've tried that is just the same as the "good old" stuff that is still going strong after 20+ years. I've tried other brands that failed miserably and make a mockery of the butyl name.
Butyl is easy to work with, and more importantly, easy to remove if/when the day comes. Cleans up like a breeze with mineral spirits. And it stays sticky and keeps on working for decades.
The downsides (they all have downsides):
1) It can continue to ooze out slightly over time (this is its great feature - that it stays sticky - but that also means it does not permanently cure like some other products). You can remove the excess but it's still something to be aware of.
2) Best practice is to tighten down, but then come back a few more times and tighten a bit more (because it slowly creeps to its "final" size). If you are working solo and need to find a helper this can be a disadvantage.
3) It is not a powerful adhesive. I mean, it does stick VERY well, but it's not a "glue" like say a polyurethane (why it's easy to remove if you need to). This means it should be used on items that are also mechanically fastened (screws, etc.).
4) It is not resistant to fuel (which is why mineral spirits will clean it up). But you likely aren't bedding fuel fills.
As far as gaskets go, hmmm. Maybe. Some of the "pointy screws into fiberglass" applications might not be able to tighten down to the gasket flattening stage, and you could possibly get some leakage on screw threads. But I have nothing against gaskets in principle, and if you use the correct durometer and cut them to fit well then they might be a good way to go.
Other caulks, IMO: Polyurethane does a good job if you use a less adhesive one (not 5200!). Can be a bit tricky to work with, and it can yellow in UV light . It can be difficult to remove to repair or re-bed later. It takes a while to cure but does cure. Can be adhesive or very adhesive! Polyether (3M4000) doesn't yellow in UV, but I have heard mixed results on consistent quality. Polysulfide is hard to find these days and can attack plasticizers. Silicone: Just no.
Butyl is easy to work with, and more importantly, easy to remove if/when the day comes. Cleans up like a breeze with mineral spirits. And it stays sticky and keeps on working for decades.
The downsides (they all have downsides):
1) It can continue to ooze out slightly over time (this is its great feature - that it stays sticky - but that also means it does not permanently cure like some other products). You can remove the excess but it's still something to be aware of.
2) Best practice is to tighten down, but then come back a few more times and tighten a bit more (because it slowly creeps to its "final" size). If you are working solo and need to find a helper this can be a disadvantage.
3) It is not a powerful adhesive. I mean, it does stick VERY well, but it's not a "glue" like say a polyurethane (why it's easy to remove if you need to). This means it should be used on items that are also mechanically fastened (screws, etc.).
4) It is not resistant to fuel (which is why mineral spirits will clean it up). But you likely aren't bedding fuel fills.
As far as gaskets go, hmmm. Maybe. Some of the "pointy screws into fiberglass" applications might not be able to tighten down to the gasket flattening stage, and you could possibly get some leakage on screw threads. But I have nothing against gaskets in principle, and if you use the correct durometer and cut them to fit well then they might be a good way to go.
Other caulks, IMO: Polyurethane does a good job if you use a less adhesive one (not 5200!). Can be a bit tricky to work with, and it can yellow in UV light . It can be difficult to remove to repair or re-bed later. It takes a while to cure but does cure. Can be adhesive or very adhesive! Polyether (3M4000) doesn't yellow in UV, but I have heard mixed results on consistent quality. Polysulfide is hard to find these days and can attack plasticizers. Silicone: Just no.
1999 Concourse