Chin-k,
On my 2000 concourse, this is how I removed the pillar.
1. Remove the LVD cover, the magazine rack and the end of the bed enclosure - see photo above.
2. Pop off the gray buttons and remove the fasteners - I labeled each due to differing lengths.
3. Remove the overhead wooden strip that butts up against the pillar.
4. Remove the 5/8" nut that holds the seat belt- I tweaked the plastic cover over that nut trying to get it off - be careful.
5. There is a 1" lip on the back side of the pillar that fits behind the sidewall, so coaxing the pillar out requires gentle twisting and pulling front and back, top and bottom. You won't remove it completely because the seat belt goes through it, but you can move it far enough to get access to the work area.
6. Reinstalling is just the opposite, with the first step working the 1" lip back behind the side panel as you scoot the pillar back on place.
Hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer any further questions.
Solar Suitcase & OEM system?
Re: Solar Suitcase & OEM system?
Happy Trails,
Dan Eskelson
2000 Chinook Concourse
Dan Eskelson
2000 Chinook Concourse
Re: Solar Suitcase & OEM system?
Thank you, danesk. Very appreciated.
I don't think I have a cover on the LVD, nor the bed enclosure. Maybe only the later 2000 Concourse has them.
I don't think I have a cover on the LVD, nor the bed enclosure. Maybe only the later 2000 Concourse has them.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Solar Suitcase & OEM system?
Got the pillar unfastened, but can't get it completely out of the way. Feels like it is glued to the mouse skin or whatever the fabric is made of. I can peel it out on the side closer to the front, but the other side of the pillar just won't come away from the wall at all and I don't want to rip off the fabric if is indeed glued. Any suggestion?danesk wrote: July 28th, 2020, 12:42 pm 4. Remove the 5/8" nut that holds the seat belt- I tweaked the plastic cover over that nut trying to get it off - be careful.
BTW, I tried for an hour trying to get the plastic cover off the seat belt anchor bolt. I finally took the nut off without removing the cover, and discovered that I need to put it off two taps on the underside.
Edit:
I am going to submit a separate post on the wiring route from the battery to the solar panel if I can't find the answer to it by simple search.
I also see that Dano's thread about his solar upgrade about a year ago. I will read that thread again and see if that will help me with the wiring from the LVD to the converter.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1441
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: Solar Suitcase & OEM system?
From what I recall of the pillar, that left edge is curved. I had to pull the right edge away from its side until the pillar was almost at a right angle to the coach wall and then pop it a bit with my palm. Impossible with the couch in the way, had to remove it. Was able to do it while the couch metal frame was in place, but the next time, after I'd completely removed the couch and frame, it was much easier because I could bend it just that little bit further before popping it out with my palm.
Got a couple images, much better than my description! THe panel is sitting upside down on the front seat and the images are only showing the top portion, which is really the bottom of the pillar. You can see the screw holes on the panel where the LVD was attached.
Got a couple images, much better than my description! THe panel is sitting upside down on the front seat and the images are only showing the top portion, which is really the bottom of the pillar. You can see the screw holes on the panel where the LVD was attached.
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
Re: Solar Suitcase & OEM system?
Thank you, Bob, for the info. It explains why I can't remove the pillar piece. I am going to try to work with it without remove it completely, and see if I can get it done. Otherwise, I will remove the sofa, and do what you suggested.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
