Okay, well mine is a very early 1999, so they should be pretty much the same. Oh but wait, I don't see that auxilliary fuse block called out in the 1998 manual. Aha!? Maybe that fuse block didn't exist in 1998? Anyone?
I will say that the way Chinook ran the taillight wiring was not one of their more brilliant moves, IMO. If someone had trouble with it (which they may have if they towed a trailer with lots of incandescent lights), they might have changed something.
So here is how it goes originally in my early 1999 (and I think thereafter). Yours may not be like this but I wouldn't be surprised if it is similar...or a similar concept.
1) Ford provides a wire run that terminates in a pair of connectors (one brown, one black) and is intended to run trailer lights only. The brown connector has the normal basic four trailer wires (tail, turn/stop left, turn/stop right, ground), and Chinook used these to do TWO things (not just the one Ford intended).
1a) Chinook used those four wires to power a "four way flat" trailer connector that comes stock on the Chinook (either hanging down near the spare tire or tucked up in the driver's side frame rail near the back).
1b) (Where it starts to get weird) they ALSO used those same four wires (Y-ed them off) and passed them up through the Chinook floor just outboard of the "tire locker" (behind a removable wall) and used them to power the taillights and the marker lights and the brake lights (what could possibly go wrong).
1c) Of course let's provide a fuse because this could easily get overloaded and you can't predict what someone will hook up (like my cargo trailer with something like 28 incandescent bulbs for the running and tail lights). And let's put that fuse on the fuse block up by the driver. Oh hey, how are we going to get to that? I know, let's take the really skinny wire Ford provided, add ANOTHER really long skinny wire up to the fuse block, and then ANOTHER long skinny wire back to the rear (not a good idea in case I haven't made my opinion clear

).
2) Chinook also used one of the wires from Ford's black connector to power the backup lights on the Chinook. The other two wires on that connector are unused but are intended for electric brake and general power for trailer connectors that have more positions than the 4-way flat one does.
So let's say you are me and although you have trailered no problem numerous times but now you hook up said cargo trailer with the multitudinous running lights. Well, you soon find out that you have no trailer lights, and no Chinook taillights. Swell! Then you don't think about that marker light fuse (cause why would you), and you spend some quality time lying on the ground under the rig in a busy rest area at night.
Long story short, that's when I found the long wires back and forth and figured out the problem. The wires run up and back alongside the driver's side frame rail in a black "ribbed" loom. They then go through the driver's side footwell (under the black plastic Ford "grippy liner" part) and to that fuse block to the 7.5 amp fuse labeled "marker lights."
I switched my trailer lights over to LED (which I wanted to do anyway) and that solved the problem because there was no longer too much amperage being drawn (LED's take much less power). But if someone had this problem some years ago, when LED was less common, they might have changed it to work with the incandescent lights. Also Chinook might have done it differently without those fuse blocks.
So what would I do in your place?
A few options, in the order I would do them:
1) Obviously, poke around in that area under the steering wheel and see if anything makes sense. But it looks like it's unclear.
2) Look underneath where the driver's side frame rail ends and see if those Ford connectors are there and where the wires go. I have a 1997 Camper Kit brochure and it shows the same connectors, so I'd bet that was the same in 1998 (see below).
3) Remove the black grippy footwell liner on the driver's cab side and see if a pair of wires (both positive) run through there together from aft in black loom.
4) Remove the left (driver's) side wall of the rear "tire locker" and look over to see where the taillight wires come up (probably last step since I don't think Chinook would have buried a fuse in there).
BTW, do you have a Premier (rectangular windows) or a Concourse (parallelogram windows)?
Here is what those connectors look like: