House battery not charging when engine is running.

[Blue~Go]

Let me take a look at that diagram either after dinner or tomorrow morning. Your system is likely similar to kyidletime's (which we spent a good deal of time sussing out), but let me see on the actual diagram (plus re-kindle my memory of the whole deal).

I agree on replacing the "store" switch (if that's what you have). I eliminated mine in favor of a direct (i.e. right by the battery and not with a relay like my generation store switch was) and simple/robust on/off Blue Sea Switch.

Ooops, I said later. A friend made me dinner so I'm off for now

[reddingnative]

After looking at the various models of relays, I think the 7620 will work for me. I like the remote option, but I don't think I need the manual over ride of the 7622 unless you think otherwise. Thanks again.

[Blue~Go]

I'll have to look up the 7620 to see what it is, but I do like a manual override. For example, you want to work on X bit of wiring. You disconnect, but.... is there power coming through from the other battery bank? Nice to KNOW they're not connected in any way. Or maybe for some reason you want all of your charging to go to one bank or the other but not both. These aren't scenarios that happen often, but I was always a bit wary when working on things with the original Surepower 1315 with no override. It seemed like it would be easy to "forget" a source of charging on the "other" bank and think you had no power coming in.

[reddingnative]

I'll have to look up the 7620 to see what it is, but I do like a manual override. For example, you want to work on X bit of wiring. You disconnect, but.... is there power coming through from the other battery bank? Nice to KNOW they're not connected in any way. Or maybe for some reason you want all of your charging to go to one bank or the other but not both. These aren't scenarios that happen often, but I was always a bit wary when working on things with the original Surepower 1315 with no override. It seemed like it would be easy to "forget" a source of charging on the "other" bank and think you had no power coming in.

I checked it out and I think you have good point the 7622 is way to go. It will be easy to wire. As far as the "start isolation" wiring instructions are detailed, that connection can be made at either the ignition start switch or at the starter solenoid. Which is easiest to do?

[reddingnative]

Reddingnative -

You might've missed my post on August 15th, 2017, 7:58 am (previous page).

In it I suggested using a blocking diode coming from ignition switch RUN power, to tie in parallel with the Boost switch relay enable connection.

add-auto-boost.png

That way, when the engine is running, it automatically enables the Boost relay so that the Coach Battery is charged from the alternator. But only when the engine is running. And the diode prevents the boost switch from backfeeding RUN everywhere else.

You can add a switch in line with the diode to disable alternator charging if need be. I've been trying to figure out how much current the relay takes to close, so we can figure out what $1 diode to use

But a better solution would be a smart combiner/separator, which would tie the two batteries together whenever one or the other side is actually charging... and disconnect them if either side drops too low. Bluego should be able to recommend one.

Kev

I'm going to install the Blue Sea 7622 in place of my old school solenoid wired to the emergency power/start momentary switch. That will allow the charging of both batteries by the engine, the generator or shore power. My questions is, what are you using to control your house battery(s)?

[kdarling]

As far as the "start isolation" wiring instructions are detailed, that connection can be made at either the ignition start switch or at the starter solenoid. Which is easiest to do?

I'd use the closest start wire I could find under the hood

I'm going to install the Blue Sea 7622 in place of my old school solenoid wired to the emergency power/start momentary switch. That will allow the charging of both batteries by the engine, the generator or shore power. My questions is, what are you using to control your house battery(s)?

Like you, I have a house battery switch next to the emergency boost one. I haven't traced that part out fully yet.

But as far as I can tell, it goes to a solenoid hidden under the engine battery, which enables the house battery power to go rearward under the chassis on the driver's side.

PS. If it were me, I would just use the current wiring with the Blue Sea. If it's good enough for boost, it's good enough for the relatively minor charging that will be going on. It should be able to carry at least 40 amps for the short cross hood distance.

[Blue~Go]

reddingnative,

I have to apologize, as I have not taken the time to look over that diagram yet. But I will! I'm glad you're going with the 7622. I think the lockout feature is worth it.

As far as "start isolation" (which is a feature that's optional to wire up), I don't think you'd need it. The intention is for boats that have a lot of sensitive instrumentation on the house bank (chartplotters, depth sounders, etc.). Some boats have small house banks, and then these instruments are on. They are sensitive to voltage changes. So you go to start your engine (maybe you are trolling and starting and stopping a lot) and, Wham, the instruments cut out due to the voltage drop.

But you (presumably) don't have these sensitive instruments running on your house bank while you are driving/starting/stopping. (And even when you do on boats, if you have a larger house bank it still doesn't cause problem because the house bank can "absorb" the electrical dips.) I don't even have that hooked up on the boat because the house bank is large enough to absorb any dip. I can't imagine needing it on a Chinook (but if you have a small house battery and a electrical lab going in the living rom then you might ).

Note that the start isolation is not the same as the "emergency combine" feature.

Okay, I WILL look over that diagram later on this evening. Setting myself a note to do so.

BG

[reddingnative]

reddingnative,

I have to apologize, as I have not taken the time to look over that diagram yet. But I will! I'm glad you're going with the 7622. I think the lockout feature is worth it.

As far as "start isolation" (which is a feature that's optional to wire up), I don't think you'd need it. The intention is for boats that have a lot of sensitive instrumentation on the house bank (chartplotters, depth sounders, etc.). Some boats have small house banks, and then these instruments are on. They are sensitive to voltage changes. So you go to start your engine (maybe you are trolling and starting and stopping a lot) and, Wham, the instruments cut out due to the voltage drop.

But you (presumably) don't have these sensitive instruments running on your house bank while you are driving/starting/stopping. (And even when you do on boats, if you have a larger house bank it still doesn't cause problem because the house bank can "absorb" the electrical dips.) I don't even have that hooked up on the boat because the house bank is large enough to absorb any dip. I can't imagine needing it on a Chinook (but if you have a small house battery and a electrical lab going in the living rom then you might ).

Note that the start isolation is not the same as the "emergency combine" feature.

Okay, I WILL look over that diagram later on this evening. Setting myself a note to do so.

BG

Ok, so if I wire the 7622 remote, less the start isolation, and I set the remote switch to the "Auto" position, what exactly does that do? I'm using a Fullriver AGM Group 27 105ah house battery and a Interstate AGM engine battery.

Thanks

[kdarling]

The 7622 manual is here: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resourc ... 180180.pdf

Unless overridden, it automatically combines or separates the two battery sides according to these rules:

Blue Sea 7622 combiner separator

Thus if either side is connected to a charger, the two sides will be connected and both will get charged.

- If you're hooked to shore power, the engine battery will also get charged from your house converter.

- If you're boondocking, both batteries can get charged from the solar panel.

- If you're driving down the road, the house battery will also get charged from your engine alternator.

[Blue~Go]

Okay, so I finally took a look at that diagram. Ironically, one reason it took me so long is that my buddy just got a new RV, and so of course it has the "standard" RV charging system, which wasn't working at ALL for the boondocking we're doing, and we're in the process of planning out improvements, ordering parts, etc. But of course we're in the mountains without many tools, etc. Isn't that how it goes?

So, ignoring everything that isn't germane, and writing it down so it clarifies to me as well, you basically have a start (Ford) battery, a house battery, and then a couple of solenoids between them, plus a couple of switches. Exactly how those all work isn't totally important if you are just going to put in a 7622 (which is a great choice, as long as you are happy with bi-directional charging). Not saying you shouldn't be, just that it's a choice* (see more below).

So let's mentally say you remove all the wiring/components that deal with these functions. That looks like it would be the two large cables (4 gauge red from the start battery, 8 gauge red from the house battery, the two solenoids, the two switches and their associated wiring, and the collection of fuses).

I'm not sure how physically far apart your two battery banks are. Are they both under the hood? Long distances in 12 volt DC systems mean you want really chunky wiring (to avoid voltage drop).

Also (you probably told me this but I forget now, sorry!), if you want to self jump start, and you want a safe over-current protected (fuses or breakers) system (a GOOD idea since batteries store a lot of short-circuit power potential (for example, over 10,000 amps for the pair of house batteries my bud is putting in ), then your primary wiring (the big/main positive negative cable circle) needs to be able to be fused high enough to not blow under the starter's current.

So, come to think of it, can you say (or remind me if I have forgotten by now) of the answers to these questions?

1) What is the distance from your start battery to your house battery? In other words, if you ran a hose from one to the other (with all necessary twists and turns), how long would it be? I can probably estimate from the locations, once I know what they are.

2) Do you want to have self-jump start ability? Or only charge combine ability?

3) Do you want bi-directional charging (both sources can charge both banks)?

Ready to respond - it's semi-break time while we wait for some of buddy's components to arrive.

BG

*Bi-directional charging means that when there is a charging source on the start battery (typically alternator when driving), it will be automatically shared with the house bank. And when there is a charging source on the house bank (typically shore power, generator, or solar) it will be shared with the start bank. There are uni-directional relays (not the 7622 and not sure any Blue Sea ACR). That would typically mean that alternator power would go to your house bank, but house charging sources would not go to your start battery.