Chinook RV

Blue~Go wrote: January 4th, 2019, 12:36 pmI'd want to check the MSDS (or whatever "ingredient" list) due to I think it is meant for exterior use (but I'd do that on any plywood).

That's a great point. I used to spend hours at work reading MSDSs and it can get a little frightening. Formaldehyde from adhesives/binders and VOCs from paints, stains, resins, etc. are potentially a health concern. I guess that's a good thing about an older rig; most of the out-gassing has already happened.

Scott wrote: January 5th, 2019, 9:40 am Mine is luxuriously lined with blue carpet, just like all storage spaces should be

I know my kayak, torque wrench, jack, and entry mat really appreciate the luxury

Scott wrote: January 5th, 2019, 9:40 am Steve, that's neat that your door has a top hinge. Is that arrangement strong enough to be used as a table? "Strong" is subjective, but does it look as though they designed it with a structural intent?

I've noticed that sometime around the early 2000's, they changed both of the storage doors to open "opposite." That is, the side storage door which on mine opens down (hinge on bottom) then opened upward; and the tire locker door which on mine opens upward (hinge on top) then opened downward. Not sure why, and I can see reasons for each way being better or worse. My guess is it's just the usual foam based door (I got "into" these doors and the fabricators when I was considering one for my water heater opening), which is not super weak but also not really structural.

I saw a neat mod someone here did who has the "upflinging" tire door like I do: They made a second, plywood "door" that hinges at the bottom and fits inside the compartment when the regular lid is closed. Then when you open it and stow the main lid "up" this second door opens down and makes a surface for projects, etc. I was all excited to do it, but then thought about hmmmm, that opens to the interior of the Chinook, and do I really want to leave it open while I'm camping in the woods? Oh well, the kind of stuff I store in there wouldn't really lend itself to that kind of "shelf" anyway. But it's a neat idea depending on how and where you camp.

Scott wrote: January 5th, 2019, 9:55 amI used to spend hours at work reading MSDSs and it can get a little frightening.

Like when you are about to take a medicine that is slated to do good things for you, then you read the full info with the warnings.... .... then you are scared to take it!

That's one reason I chose Apple Ply. It seemed less bad, plus it's a nice product to work with. Also I just couldn't get good plywood locally (they ship).

Pre-outgassed is a great feature of an older rig. When I've been in new ones (going with a friend to shop, etc.), I don't know how anyone camps in those for the first few years - my eyes were watering!

Scott wrote: January 5th, 2019, 9:40 am Steve, that's neat that your door has a top hinge. Is that arrangement strong enough to be used as a table? "Strong" is subjective, but does it look as though they designed it with a structural intent?

I wouldn't use it as a table as the cables are not that heavy a gauge. That said I'm comfortable putting light things on it. The spare tilts down in front of it to about a 45 degree angle as well. The door itself is swelling a bit at the base. Not sure whats its core is but obviously water has intruded a bit over the years.

A few words on the interior of the compartment. The glass is more of a liner and pan. The picture makes it look like just a pan in the bottom but it has padded panels screwed to the sides. Certainly an upgrade from the wood/carpet version.

Before I start repairing the water damage, I have to find where the intrusion is happening. I'm going to first start at the roof and clean and reseal all the vents and entry points. Then the running lights. Door seals come next as well as the side doors for genset, fridge, water heater, furnace, windows, and anything else I see that can allow water in.

Since it's raining in Seattle, and this rig is parked outside, it'll be tough starting until the weather lightens up. Maybe I'll place a tarp over the rear quarter to mitigate. But I start a part time job tomorrow for a whole month, and I will be taking the rig so it's a moot point.
after the leaks are sealed, that is when the MDF repair or replace will happen.

Bathroom entry:

Lower stairwell. Everything above on the floor is bone dry.

My sewer hose carrier is cracked and has lost its lid.
I plan to just tape it tight around the tube, then paint it.
I found a lid on Amazon for $10.07 or $8.84 used.
Part # is Valterra A040161bk.
On second thought, after previewing this pic, I noticed that it seems they tried to repair before. Perhaps I’ll just buy a new one. They’re about 35 bucks.

I agree: Figure out the leaks first. But, I would probably remove the carpet over any wet areas right now. Everything is repairable, but you'd rather not deal with floor rot (or any more than you have to). At least with the carpet off you'll have some moving air there.

The shower wall being soaked at the bottom but the top of the stairs being dry is interesting. From the tire locker and the shower threshhold it almost seems like water is "running" across the floor. But then how is the top of the stairs dry? Oh come on, can't we rip it open NOW

After reading about all kinds of clever solutions to replacing the original sewer hose holder underneath (square plastic fence post is one I remember, but my local home centers didn't carry it and I wanted to actually see it before buying), I caved and bought one of the "real" ones. It's a bit larger in diameter than the original that was on mine. And no more bungies helping to hold it on

I just looked and it's the Valterra EZ hose carrier. I'd have to measure but I probably got the 64" one (?) I mounted it off center slightly so the driver's side end is close to the edge of the body. I also got a Valterra Dominator sewer hose - so much better than the flimsy regular ones! (Yep, I can now DOMINATE the dump stations --- who comes up with these names?!) The EZ Carrier tube won't fit any of the giant elbows, but easily fits the hose with the big bayonet ends, which is all I use.

It has worked just fine. Only change I would make might be to get the black version, as the white yellows.

It's this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S3N5RC/re ... UTF8&psc=1

Y'know, looking at your broken one it may already be the EZ carrier. Mine came with an older, narrower tube. So never mind about the new one being larger.

Trunk is not as bad as I thought.
Side MDF has picked up some moisture.
I think a carpenter can repair that and build me a smarter box for the area.
The carpet is dryish to my surprise, although filthy and embedded with old rusty tool shapes for posterity.
I think water intrusion could be coming from the rear door. It’s missing the rubber seal between the screen door and jam. The outer door rubber looks in good shape.
Where can I buy the seal?