Re: Getting power to my overhead compartment.
Posted: September 18th, 2015, 8:31 am
I was thinking about this the other day. I can't remember exactly what was plugged in to the "backwards" AC outlet that Chinook put next to the VCR, but I think it was something in the "entertainment system." I didn't even make it all the way home without removing both of them (along with the CB and the Mr. Coffee), so I can't remember.
As far as the power system for extended boondocking, here is what I did in a nutshell.
1) First of all, I'm pretty used to living a "12-volt life" from living on boats (and actually that was an upgrade from kerosene, etc.). It's kind of like money in that it can be easier to just spend less, than to figure out how to make more - if you know what I mean. So for starters, I don't run a lot of AC or power-hungry things. It's not that I'm depriving myself - I just don't have them or want them. I do have a couple of small AC things (for example, cordless drill battery charger), and for those I have a very small inverter that just plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet. Most everything else is either not electric, 12-volt, or uses AA or AAA batteries that I can charge via a DC charger (Maha brand).
2) Second, I went through the Chinook and put in an electrical system more like what I'm used to from boats. Most of the changes are between the batteries and the DC fuse block. In a nutshell:
Storage:
New, larger battery bank
Installation and distribution:
Wire size/quality/installation/protection appropriate to situation (over-current protection/voltage drop/etc.). Mostly going by ABYC guidelines, with some variation. So bus bars for where cables and wires gather, proper fusing for ampacity of wire, good quality crimp connections, labels, switches, etc.
I also took out the "brown box" (converter, AC and DC panels, automatic transfer switch) and replaced it with an AC circuit breaker panel and a DC fuse block (which could alternately be a circuit breaker panel). The AC panel has two double pole breakers for the sources (Generator or Shore power) and you just choose between one or the other.
Power generation:
For now, two 100-watt "portable" solar panels, that I lay out when I'm parked for more than a couple of days. But I sized the rest of the system (cables, solar controller, etc.) for a larger setup including roof panels. That said, the 200 watts is keeping me easily topped up at this time.
I also put in a 60-amp charger (this is for when plugged in or when generator is on), although I haven't done either since I put it in. Really, if the system hadn't already been there, I probably would not have added it. I could do with a minimal shore-power system that was just an inlet, protection, and a power strip. But since the generator and AC cabling and charger were already here, I have upgraded them appropriately.
Monitoring:
Victron BMV-700 and Balmar Smart Gauge - these are like "gas gauges" for the batteries.
The main thing is a balance between usage, generation, and storage. And then the cables and wires sized such that you are not "giving away" half of what you have gained to voltage drop or etc.
I tend to use around 40-50 amp hours per day at the moment. This is about 75% compressor refrigerator, 20% "device" charging, and 5% lighting. I have 375 hours in the battery bank, so there is some reserve. However, right now that is lopsided with my charging capability (over-batteried or under-paneled). I might be hard pressed to claw my way back (via solar) if I actually used, say, 200 amp hours. But I'm planning a bit more wattage by putting some panels on the roof.
However, since my usage is relatively low, right now I can re-charge just about every day (summer, sunny). But then it's not great to plan for best-case scenarios, when there can be weeks of clouds, low-angle winter sun and short days, etc. For now I could make it up by driving or running the generator if I had to.
In reality I would have to have to run the generator for charging, so I'm not going to plan that as a typical usage. Basically it has been a large, expensive way to occassionally run 110 power tools for a few minutes. But it's already there, so....
As far as the power system for extended boondocking, here is what I did in a nutshell.
1) First of all, I'm pretty used to living a "12-volt life" from living on boats (and actually that was an upgrade from kerosene, etc.). It's kind of like money in that it can be easier to just spend less, than to figure out how to make more - if you know what I mean. So for starters, I don't run a lot of AC or power-hungry things. It's not that I'm depriving myself - I just don't have them or want them. I do have a couple of small AC things (for example, cordless drill battery charger), and for those I have a very small inverter that just plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet. Most everything else is either not electric, 12-volt, or uses AA or AAA batteries that I can charge via a DC charger (Maha brand).
2) Second, I went through the Chinook and put in an electrical system more like what I'm used to from boats. Most of the changes are between the batteries and the DC fuse block. In a nutshell:
Storage:
New, larger battery bank
Installation and distribution:
Wire size/quality/installation/protection appropriate to situation (over-current protection/voltage drop/etc.). Mostly going by ABYC guidelines, with some variation. So bus bars for where cables and wires gather, proper fusing for ampacity of wire, good quality crimp connections, labels, switches, etc.
I also took out the "brown box" (converter, AC and DC panels, automatic transfer switch) and replaced it with an AC circuit breaker panel and a DC fuse block (which could alternately be a circuit breaker panel). The AC panel has two double pole breakers for the sources (Generator or Shore power) and you just choose between one or the other.
Power generation:
For now, two 100-watt "portable" solar panels, that I lay out when I'm parked for more than a couple of days. But I sized the rest of the system (cables, solar controller, etc.) for a larger setup including roof panels. That said, the 200 watts is keeping me easily topped up at this time.
I also put in a 60-amp charger (this is for when plugged in or when generator is on), although I haven't done either since I put it in. Really, if the system hadn't already been there, I probably would not have added it. I could do with a minimal shore-power system that was just an inlet, protection, and a power strip. But since the generator and AC cabling and charger were already here, I have upgraded them appropriately.
Monitoring:
Victron BMV-700 and Balmar Smart Gauge - these are like "gas gauges" for the batteries.
The main thing is a balance between usage, generation, and storage. And then the cables and wires sized such that you are not "giving away" half of what you have gained to voltage drop or etc.
I tend to use around 40-50 amp hours per day at the moment. This is about 75% compressor refrigerator, 20% "device" charging, and 5% lighting. I have 375 hours in the battery bank, so there is some reserve. However, right now that is lopsided with my charging capability (over-batteried or under-paneled). I might be hard pressed to claw my way back (via solar) if I actually used, say, 200 amp hours. But I'm planning a bit more wattage by putting some panels on the roof.
However, since my usage is relatively low, right now I can re-charge just about every day (summer, sunny). But then it's not great to plan for best-case scenarios, when there can be weeks of clouds, low-angle winter sun and short days, etc. For now I could make it up by driving or running the generator if I had to.
In reality I would have to have to run the generator for charging, so I'm not going to plan that as a typical usage. Basically it has been a large, expensive way to occassionally run 110 power tools for a few minutes. But it's already there, so....