Sure Power Battery Separator clicking sound

[chin_k]

I installed battery disconnect for the coach batteries, so on daytime, when the solar panel is working, the battery separator clicks and try to charge the chassis battery under the hood. After a few seconds, it will click again when the voltage get high enough. There are two concerns that I have, and I would like to hear what others think.

1, the separator get warm when the solenoid is activated. Will this shorten the life of the separator?
2, without the coach batteries, will the solar panel boils off the water in the chassis battery? I still have the old, original charger.

I can resolve the clicking sound by disconnect the solar panel to the main by remove the fuse, for example. But I am worry about end up with a dead chassis battery if I don't keep an eye on it. I can also disconnect the chassis battery, but do not know if the solar energy will mess thing up without any kind of battery connect to the charger.

Any suggestion?

[Blue~Go]

One thing you might check before spending a bunch of time figuring out what is going on, is whether yours is recalled. Mine was (Surepower 1315 installed in 1999). Slight matter of they catch on fire or something along those lines.

In addition, it's an older type of unit that induces some voltage drop and I think robs some power. If you do replace it, you might consider something like the Blue Sea 7622. Also know that it only has to be somewhere in the wire that runs between the start battery positive post and the house bank positive post. In other words, no need to put it on the fenderwell, where it is subject to heat and moisture, and virtually impossible to reach. If I still had the stock wire run setup, I'd probably put in in the house battery area. You can use a power post to join the two leads where the separator used to be (or change it out for larger wire if you plan to use that function = advantage less voltage drop and it will be large enough to fuse).

[chin_k]

Thank you, Blue, for your reply. Musta cost you a fortune to get on the Internet nowadays?!?

I think the separator is fine. I check the recall list, and it is not on it. I am just concern about the longevity of it if it keep switching on and off since the coach batteries are off-line. I also worry if the extra energy to the coach battery will cause it to be short-lived. I know the solution is to disconnect the solar panel from the rest of the electric system, but I just want to have less hassle when I am ready to drive it next time instead of having to reconnect a few things.

[Blue~Go]

No $ cost.... except leaving my woodsy campsite and driving 20 miles to an area with Internet. But I'm back in signal-land now. Seems weird - Internet at my fingertips!

I'm not sure I completely understand what you're doing with the separator now. Maybe my brain needs to get back up to speed too

[chin_k]

40 miles back and forth is almost 4 gal of gas, and in my neck of the wood, that is almost $16 dollars. Glad that you are back in the civilization for now

The separator is doing what it suppose to do, except that I am concern about the chassis battery damaged from the original PWM charger (the coach batteries are disconnected). I also concern about if the separator will eventually die because of the constant clicking due to the disconnected coach batteries. It is warm to the touch when the sun is out due to the electrified solenoid coil in there.

[Blue~Go]

I'm stlll not 100% clear on your situation, but maybe a little more

You could just remove the cable from the Ford start battery that leads to the separator/house bank while you don't have a house battery. Would that work for you? Or am I misunderstanding.

Here is a photo of the original start battery connections on my Chinook. The lug on the right side (as we look at the photo) is the one that goes over to the separator (yes, the lug is pulling through the nut -- that has been completely changed now; larger wire, marine terminals with lugs, and it's fused -- I also moved the gen start to the house bank).

BTW, the center lug's wire went to a circuit breaker near the aft edge of the hood and thence to the gen start; the left lug was the Ford one (with a "double" wire).

[chin_k]

It must be my writing. Sorry.

The connectors on my 2000 Chinook look identical. I think I just put a disconnect on the separator and that will solve the concerns.

[Blue~Go]

I've been re-reading the first post.

So when you say "disconnect for the coach batteries" you mean you are disconnecting the link between the house and start bank? (Disconnect got me and made me think you were disconnecting the house batteries from their loads, which didn't make a lot of sense.)

If I'm now reading this right, you have solar panels charging your house bank. But you don't want them to also charge your start battery (or not always). So you have a manual disconnect somewhere on the line between the house bank and the start battery?

Not a ton changes in my thoughts then, but I wanted to get my mind around it.

1) I actually have a similar system now, but with *only* a manual switch between the house and start banks (Sure power is gone; mine was recalled anyway, plus I don't like the compromises of the older design). I also have two LED lights that come on when the switch is "on" (banks joined). A green one by the dash, and a flashing red in the kitchen (down by the end of the couch, facing aft). Since my solar typically takes care of everything, I only turn the switch on (combined) for "special occasions."

2) The Sure-power 1315, if that is what you have, is bi-directional. But there are uni-directional ones (so the alternator could charge the house bank but your solar would not charge the start bank). I think the Surepower 1314 is uni-directional (but still has the older design I believe - but haven't checked recently.

3) I still like the Blue Sea 7622. It's a modern design, magnetic latching, no voltage drop, basically no power draw. But it is bi-drectional (I wish they had a uni-directional one). It does have a manual lockout, which is a nice feature (and there is also a remote/lit rocker switch). This then also takes the place of the "press to jump start" switch in the cab. Add decent sized wires and some fuses and you are set to go (I used 1/0 and then could fuse both ends - if you do this don't forget to equivalently size the two short negative leads to the chassis from the house bank and the start bank as they'd be part of the circuit you'd be fusing) (A friend used 2AWG and then by just slightly "oversizing" the fuses (which is technically allowed if not the ultimate setup) was able to fuse them too.)

Blue Sea does have an article about separator clicking on their website. I think in their case (IIRC) it was if you have a very small house bank and big loads. So the house bank voltage would get up to the level that would "combine" the separator (relay) (with the alternator-start bank source of power) and then almost immediately get sucked down and cause it to un-combine, then it would rise and the separator would combine again, lather, rise, repeat, clickety-click. Not saying this is your issue though, since your house bank is cut off from the separator; but maybe it acts that way somewhat with no load? I don't know exactly how the Surepowers work (Blue Sea tells you pretty clearly how theirs work).

[chin_k]

....

Blue Sea does have an article about separator clicking on their website. I think in their case (IIRC) it was if you have a very small house bank and big loads. So the house bank voltage would get up to the level that would "combine" the separator (relay) (with the alternator-start bank source of power) and then almost immediately get sucked down and cause it to un-combine, then it would rise and the separator would combine again, lather, rise, repeat, clickety-click. Not saying this is your issue though, since your house bank is cut off from the separator; but maybe it acts that way somewhat with no load? I don't know exactly how the Surepowers work (Blue Sea tells you pretty clearly how theirs work).

You got it there, Blue, but the solar is charging the chassis battery only (I disconnected the coach batteries), and the voltage roller coaster is what make the separator to click constantly when the sun is out. I am just concerned with the longevity of the separator when it is clicking all the time.

The coach batteries were fully charged, and I just disconnected them when I store the rig. I have a disconnect installed for them.

[Blue~Go]

My guess is that would not be a great thing. Maybe it would heat up? At least, I wouldn't be happy with it doing that.

BTW, now I get what your situation is.