Marker and Clearance Lights

Split from General / Technical for discussion of anything electrical, electronic... 12v, Inverter, Satellite, Headlights, flashlights etc.
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inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by inacioface »

Most of my marker and clearance lights are either broken or leaking and I'd like to replace them all before heading out on my trip earlier next month. Do you know if direct replacements exist for these marker and clearance lights or do I need to find an aftermarket replacement? I don't even know if these are original to the vehicle.
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1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
BobW9
Posts: 252
Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
Location: Full-Time on the Road

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by BobW9 »

These worked for me, amber and red square marker lights, and amber side lights:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-MC48AB.html
https://www.etrailer.com/p-MC48RB.html
https://www.etrailer.com/p-MCL66AB.html
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by inacioface »

Thanks! I'll place an order tonight and I'll post pictures of the install.
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by inacioface »

Hey Bob,

I replaced the five rear marker lights earlier today and they look great and were a perfect fit. Sometime this weekend I'll finish replacing the other lights in the front of the vehicle. The two side marker lights did not come with a foam gasket, do I need one for the install? If so, what should I use?
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1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
chin_k
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 2257
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Location: Southern CA

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by chin_k »

Well, should have come with the foam gasket in the package. See if you can get one with the foam, otherwise, you may have to used the old foam and make do with them.

For the camera wire, I would put the wiring thru the large opening for the light, and bring the wire under the lamp. Less hole on the rig, and less likely for the water to get in when the lamp provides protection.

Edit: I see that the amber light may not come with foam... in that case, maybe that is how you going to install it. If you are worry, maybe put some butyl tap? Maybe better to hear from someone else, since I originally think that it is included in the package. Sorry.

Edit: I checked, and mine is also without foam, while the red ones do. So may be it is meant to be installed directly onto the body without foam.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
BobW9
Posts: 252
Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
Location: Full-Time on the Road

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by BobW9 »

Have you removed one of the side marker lights, yet? I can't recall for sure, I did mine a few years ago amid a bunch of fixes, but I think it has a different way of being attached with its wiring. Maybe, like chin_k suggested, it uses some butyl or caulking. I do remember it doesn't use a gasket, because it surprised me.

Oh, wait, I think I remember. For these, some wires came out of the fiberglass wall and had caulking around them, and then those wires attach to free wires in the fixture. There is no opening in the fiberglass for the light itself, because it isn't big and round in back, like the square ones are. The caulking looked good and solid, so I just attached the wires to the fixture wires, folded them out of the way, and screwed it on.

By the way, maybe I'm a bit paranoid, but there is a slight slope on my Concourse in back where the rear marker lights go and in my old ones that had eventually caused slight leaks down into the back from more than one of them, because the foam wasn't as tight all around - so this time I made sure to add a bit a caulking above and to the side of the fixtures, covering the foam. I left the bottom without, just in case any water got into the fixtures, it'd have somewhere to drain.
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by inacioface »

chin_k,

Thanks for the camera suggestion and for referencing your vehicle. The previous owner installed that camera. I'll probably do what you suggested and feed the wire through the large hole and let the foam seal it into place. As for the side clearance light, I'll take the old one off tomorrow and double check for some foam or sealant.

BobW9,

No, I haven't removed the side clearance lights yet. I'll do that tomorrow and double check to see if there is anything underneath the light. If there isn't anything there, like what you and chin_k are suggesting, then I'll install it without any foam and make sure the caulking is still solid. Also, I think I am just as paranoid as you and also noticed that the curved top doesn't allow the light to sit perfectly flat. Once I'm done with all of the projects (and before I head out on my trip), I will go around and apply caulk to areas I think might leak. For now I have my chinook under it's car cover to kept the water out.
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
inacioface
Posts: 50
Joined: October 3rd, 2022, 6:32 am
Location: Bethlehem, PA

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by inacioface »

I finally got around to replacing the front and side clearance lights and learned that the side lights do not have foam and the hole that the wires feed through is not caulked. I will place some caulk on the seam where the light and exterior surface meets.
1998 Chinook Concourse (Rear Entry) | Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
chin_k
**Forum Contributor**
Posts: 2257
Joined: June 26th, 2017, 9:38 pm
Location: Southern CA

Re: Marker and Clearance Lights

Post by chin_k »

If you do decide to put caulk, maybe just do it on the top and sides and leave out at least part of the bottom not caulked. This way, water can get out if it does get in there.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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