Battery Separator

Split from General / Technical for discussion of anything electrical, electronic... 12v, Inverter, Satellite, Headlights, flashlights etc.
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ltg
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Joined: January 23rd, 2017, 2:25 pm

Battery Separator

Post by ltg »

Has anyone replaced their 1314 or 1315 battery separator with a manual battery switch?
If so, what battery switch was used?

Thanks
chin_k
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by chin_k »

I used a manual Perko switch, but it is no replacement for the separator because I have to do the switching by opening up the battery compartment. After a few times, I just throw up my arms and make it disconnected unless I need to boost the chassis battery or the coach battery is low, and the engine is running. If you don't need to charge the house with the alternator, it may not be necessary to have the separator. If you can't find the same model, you may want to check out Blue Sea Systems, but I have not find an economical replacement yet.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
ltg
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by ltg »

Thanks. About the only time I will need the batteries combined is when running the refrigerator on AC using the inverter. Or, as said, charging the chassis battery after a few days parked at a campground using shore power or generator.
I think I will go with the Blue Seas battery switch. It is not economical. But less than a battery separator.
I will put the battery switch where the separator is now, in the engine compartment.
chin_k
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by chin_k »

You mention running the fridge on AC using the inverter, and I want to know more about the reasoning. Naively, isn't it more efficient to run it directly on DC instead of having to pay the penalty of the inverting? Or the fridge you have does not have the DC mode?

Either way, I don't think it is a good use case to combine them for the fridge. Another comment is that I do not think the original separator is meant to allow your chassis battery to connect to your coach batteries unless you press down on the "boost" switch. If I remember correctly, it is a momentarily switch, so you will need to keep you finger on it the whole time.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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caconcourse
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by caconcourse »

chin_k wrote: September 30th, 2022, 10:43 am Another comment is that I do not think the original separator is meant to allow your chassis battery to connect to your coach batteries unless you press down on the "boost" switch. If I remember correctly, it is a momentarily switch, so you will need to keep you finger on it the whole time.
Actually, the original (bidirectional 1315) separator would only separate when neither side was in a charging state (>13V?). This allows shore power and solar power to charge the truck battery while the coach batteries are being charged and allows the alternator to charge the coach batteries when the engine is running. The boost button override forced the batteries to join regardless of the charging state, so the coach batteries could augment the truck battery for starting in case the truck battery was too low by itself.

Itg: I removed my 1315 separator when I installed lithium batteries and a DC-DC converter. If you would like to have it, I can send it to you. (anyone else for that matter if Itg doesn't want it).
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
ltg
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by ltg »

The Dometic refrigerator cools much better on AC than DC.
The inefficiency of using the inverter to run the refrigerator on AC does not matter. The alternator charging amps are not stored, they are lost.
At a campground, without shore power or generator, DC would be preferred. But, running on propane would be the preferred method.

Clay, thanks for offering the 1315. I have three of them. But, I am going to a manual battery switch.
chin_k
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by chin_k »

ltg,
I see. However, the difference between the AC and DC mode is not going to make much of a difference unless the fridge is just starting up. Most of the time, I pre-chill the fridge a day or two before heading out. If the fridge is already at the right temperature, the heating element is not going to be on for large portion of the time, and so the larger heating element on the AC is not going to matter.

Another comment is that the alternator will not need to work as hard when the power is not needed. The alternator is not a burden to the engine when there is no demand for the electricity. So it is not true that the power from the alternator is free, that you can waste it. The inefficiency from the DC->AC->DC inversion, the wear and tear on your inverter, alternator, and extra fuel to run the engine (when it need to drive the alternator harder than it needs to) will be the cost with no benefit since your fridge is already chilled. Overall, it is very trivial amount consider the cost of the RV, but I just want to point that out. Just want to make your life easier so that you can leave the inverter alone since I think you don't really need it in this scenario.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
ltg
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by ltg »

Chin_K
Our Glacier is stored in a fully enclosed rented storage building. I do not feel comfortable running the refrigerator unattended in the storage unit. So, when we leave out on a trip, the refrigerator is at room temperature. The refrigerator on DC would never cool the refrigerator down during our first day on the road. And, I do not like to travel with the refrigerator on propane.
When the alternator and inverter/charger expire, I will replace them.
ltg
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by ltg »

Chin_K,
This is a little off the original subject.
But, I wanted to point out the Amp draw for the refrigerator in our Glacier.
On DC the refrigerator draws 18 DC Amps.
ON AC the refrigerator draws 2.7 AC Amps or 27 DC Amps.
Using the inverter to power the refrigerator, the DC Amps would be a little more. But I have no way of determining the exact amount.
chin_k
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Re: Battery Separator

Post by chin_k »

In your situation that you are not comfortable with running the fridge unattended, I completely agree with you that what you are doing is the better alternative. Many of us bring the rig out of the storage a day or two for loading and prep, but not everyone can do that.

If you are going with complete manual, another alternative is contactor (heavy duty relay) that you can operate remotely. Some can get fancy like those used in EV, but for the amount of switching most of us are doing, a basic type should be fine.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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