Kevin - Nope ... You Tubes were no help this time BUT ...
************************* Good News ****************************
Hold up ... We can Celebrate Success ... Original Shock are both out.
Ended up having to MacGyver the heck out of this project (or at least the right side SHOCK)
Inserted a 1mm Box End wrench through the narrow opening just in front of the rear tire and above the Frame. Got the box end to sit on the Shock's Top Nut. Then I was able to shove a standard 14" construction / demolition flat pry bar up from below next to the frame to stake the wrench. Had to tie the bar in place as I needed both hands for next part.
I then wrapped my " 8" Chain Plyers" around the top tube of the old shock - up as far as I could slide it. There are lots of large immovable stuff in the way (like Drive Shaft, Muffler, Tail Pipe and the LP line to the appliances) so be patient. With the Chain Plyers locked in place on the shock, I was able to get a health pull and spun the top shock tube 1/16th of a rotation, which was just enough to feel the nut break loose. With all the rust and crud on the threads of the Shock Top Stud, each tiny rotation is a bit of a struggle but at least I knew I could eventually win the fight and the war (LoL).
Took about an hour to finesse the shock 1/16th to 1/8th of a rotation to back the shock down, but hey, it worked.
With the old shocks out of the way, I'm installing Firestone Air Bags followed by Bilstein Shocks. I need 1" - 2" of lift in the REAR to deal with my driveway to street transition. The Chinook has threatened to scar my driveway apron with the hitch receiver since day one. I've been using 2x10"x 5' wood ramps as a bridge for over 6 mos and they are a real PITA. Also replacing the front shock and Steering Stabilizer.
Haven't figured out how to post pic attachments so PM me if you'd like to see a couple pics showing the tool alignment.
Cheers,
N~
