3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Section for discussion of Chinook interior and appliance issues, repair or installation.
chin_k
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by chin_k »

I think there is a pressure regulator between the city water hookup and the rest of the plumbing. If it is damaged, then you need to replace it with a new one. If you are in a hurry, you can by-pass it by hooking your PEX to the city directly, but make sure the water pressure is not too high (60 PSI or whatever the Chinook manual says) and bust thing up in the rig.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
BobW9
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Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by BobW9 »

I replaced my old one with this one off Amazon. It does not include a pressure regulator like chin_k suggests having.

My Concourse looked like it had the original equipment, but did not have a regulator, even though it is specified in the Chinook docs. I didn't bother adding one inside, since from research it seems like they can have problems and many people recommend attaching one on the outside that connects to the hose and inlet - this way you can change them out easily, and even add one that allows for adjusting the pressure if you want. Me, I almost never use city water hookup, anyway, because I've almost never stayed anywhere that had waste water hookup on the campsite, so by the time the fresh water is low, the gray/black tanks are full and I have to go empty them, anyway.

JR Products 160-85-A-26-A Polar White City Water Flange with 1/2" MPT

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... =UTF8&th=1
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
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roscott
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by roscott »

UPDATE to the post below: Well, I feel like an idiot. After staring at the picture at the link Bob provided, I realized I put that screen/filter in backwards and it was preventing the check valve from closing when the pump turned on. Reversed it and all is well.....at least with that issue....will continue my plumbing journey later this afternoon.....I do know I need a new faucet...I saw a small leak when checking the pump operation after the screen 'mishap'.



Thanks Chin_k and Bob.

Bob, I just replaced the old inlet with the exact one in your link. The local RV store had one. However, I still have the same result. Turn on the pump and water shoots out the city inlet. What are the chances a I got a bad inlet with check valve???

Next course of action is to 'cap' the inlet with a piece of threaded PVC and see if that will at least get me going. Hopefully that will let me test the pump and if there are further leaks inside. I did hook up the city water to check for leaks, but I can't see everywhere, so hoping the pump works properly after I cap the inlet (ie. shuts off after pressuring, etc.).

Odd thing is the water sprayer, next to the toilet, did not work when hooked to city water. Everything else had flow....including toilet, but not the sprayer. :?:

Thanks again for all of the advice.... :D
2004 Chinook Concourse
E350
BobW9
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Joined: February 16th, 2018, 4:46 pm
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by BobW9 »

roscott wrote: February 24th, 2021, 7:38 am UPDATE to the post below: Well, I feel like an idiot. After staring at the picture at the link Bob provided, I realized I put that screen/filter in backwards and it was preventing the check valve from closing when the pump turned on. Reversed it and all is well.....at least with that issue....will continue my plumbing journey later this afternoon.....I do know I need a new faucet...I saw a small leak when checking the pump operation after the screen 'mishap'.
I was just going to suggest checking the screen/filter - I remember very nearly doing that when I installed mine.

From the issues you're finding, I'm thinking someone didn't fully/properly winterize the water system one year.

Good luck. I, too, dislike plumbing. Actually, I like the idea, like playing with the tubing and valves and pump and stuff... just hate the part of turning on the water afterwards to see what mistakes or new leaks I've created!
2000 Concourse, Ford Triton 6.8 V10
chin_k
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by chin_k »

Plumbing actually is one of the more easy issue to deal with, as long as it has nothing to do with sewage. Electricity, particularly 110V, is more problematic.

My suggestion is to test the check valve individually, outside the Chinook. If it is defective, return it and get a new one. If it work, then you install it, and test it installed.

If you put a cap on the inlet, I don't think you will be able to close the cover. Maybe you will just install the cap when you are stationary on a camp site. The thread on the inlet is a garden hose thread. All will be fine, until it pops off, and you end up with empty tank, however.

On the sprayer, does it work when the pump is on? Mine is attached to a faucet, so are you saying the faucet works, but not the sprayer part? Any difference between the hot and cold water setting? If the entire thing does not work, check the water pressure by take out the closet behind the spare time, and remove the panels to access the plumbing.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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roscott
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by roscott »

Bob, this unit has NEVER been winterized. It was used year-round. Have had zero plumbing issues until last weeks polar vortex event down here in Texas. It belonged to my parents...up until my father was unable to safely drive, due to medical issues. I took control of it about 2 years ago so that it could be taken care of and I could fix the things that he let go due to his health. His entire life his RVs were his babies (especially this one)...they were always meticulously maintained. He was not thrilled to turn it over to me, but also not thrilled that he couldn't care for it the way it needed and he was accustomed to, and knew I would get things back in working/aesthetically pleasing order. Besides, for the last 4 years, my brother and I have been taking he and my Mother back and forth from their place in Arizona to their place in Texas, in the Winter/Spring months...so it wasn't like he 'lost' it. He passed last summer but I still use the RV to get my mother back and forth.

chin_k, thanks for the advice. Sprayer is not connected to faucet. All other water features work in the unit except that sprayer. Will dig into the plumbing behind the spare later. I just need to get it in working order for next week's trip out to AZ to get Mom.
2004 Chinook Concourse
E350
chin_k
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by chin_k »

Scott, send us a picture of the spray connection when you have everything settled down and ready. Yours must be different from mine, since my spray in the bathroom is attached to the sink's faucet. For a short trip between AZ and TX, I don't think you need the spray at all.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
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roscott
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Re: 3-way heater bypass valve replacement

Post by roscott »

chin_k: nope don't need it for the trip, just bugs me that it didn't work. Now for the update....I am ashamed to admit that this was the second 'stupid' mistake I made in 1 day. I completely forgot that in order for the sprayer to work, you have to depress the toilet pedal while using the sprayer.(this is NOT the shower head sprayer)...ie. get water flowing first. It works fine.....it's just used as bowl cleaning assist.

I think I am back to pre-freeze operation...with the exception of a new sink faucet at some point. It has a very minimal leak on the hot water side....so, I just won't use the sink hot water until I can replace it.
2004 Chinook Concourse
E350
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