1998 concorse melted 12 volt fuse in panel for overhead lights

[Roly]

I put a battery powered (4 ea. AA cells) motion sensing night light up high in the head. If it's dark, it comes on when the door is opened. It turns off after 30 seconds of no motion. I have a few in my house, too. The batteries last quite a while.

Here's an example: < https://www.amazon.com/Beams-723-Batter ... B002FCGI8Y

Roly

[Blue~Go]

Ditto on the silicone. Try to use something better like butyl and Dicor, as Bob suggested. If Blue is around, he would have come screaming mad

Ha ha. I'm reading it now and as soon as silicone was mentioned....

(Not to mention the Air-con unit doesn't use caulk, it uses a compressible gasket.)

On the melting fuse, one possibility is the screwed wire connections at the brown box. They can easily loosen up with time and travel (vibration). Then as mentioned above you get resistance/heat/melting (but no fuse properly blowing because it's resistance). I would tighten the screws at least annually (there are screws, right? I haven't seen a brown box in a number of years).

[Flame]

Blue this is where I went ahead and replaced the whole battery charging system and new fuse panel to the upgraded triple stage type charger to keep from boiling over my batteries. I also replaced my original solar charge panel with a nice Coleman brand one as suggested on this forum. Back to "everything works great" again! Glad to see you back and active on the forum!

[Blue~Go]

Guess I missed that part

But for anyone (else) with screws holding wires -- especially if they are the type that is directly from wire to screw (as opposed to a ring or captured fork) -- do check/tighten them at least once per year. Vibration (driving) can loosen them, and fuses don't protect in the loose wire/heat situation.