I use our heater a lot and recent troubles led me to order a new Suburban NT-16SQ replacement, and the "Q" is supposedly much quieter with a more efficient redesigned fan. (Note: If money was no object, I would have purchased the Propex HS2800 ($900), a highly efficient LP gas furnace whose NET btu rating is similar to NT-16 and the fan only draws 1.7 amps)
When camping sub-zero F, the stock heater cycles several times per hour and will wake me up if I am lightly sleeping, but most times I am so dead from skiing hard I don't hear it. I have down loaded a sound meter to my phone so I will get noise readings for the old and the new one. Will be interesting to compare them as I could not find this comparison data anywhere on the web.
My furnace needed a new module board and while it is out, I would have replaced the gas valve, electrode, and some gaskets (about $200.) I also saw quite a bit of rust. I figured $400 for a new quieter version was worth the extra $200. I'm quite frugal and would not have spent the extra money for a like-kind replacement.
We will see how it does as I'll be using it in WV this weekend as base camp for some backcountry skiing. I'll post my findings here as I gather information.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6 ... UTF8&psc=1
New Suburban NT-16SQ
New Suburban NT-16SQ
1997 Chinook Concourse, over 200,000 Miles
Re: New Suburban NT-16SQ
I've been eyeing up the HS2800 as well. But, there is something to be said for simply removing the existing furnace and plugging the successor model into the hole. It will be interesting to hear your direct comparison of the two (regular and "Q").
1999 Concourse
Re: New Suburban NT-16SQ
Early noise results. 41DB for "Q" version vs 48DB for standard. This was without the club seat base in place. Full installation of the Q resulted in 35db. Likely voltage was 13.2vdc.
At one point when the Q was running I wanted more light so I boosted the charger to equalize (14.4v) and the noise level increase substantially. It got me thinking that if I only run the furnace at the minimum operating voltage at all times, this should result in the lowest possible DB level.
An adjustable 8-22v voltage regulator rated at 3amps should be at my doorstep today. Plan is to set it about 0.2 volts above the sail switch minimum voltage. Then I'll recheck the DBs. The voltage regulator does heat up so I will mount it to the furnace outer casing where it with will act like an air cooled heat sink.
UPDATE: I haven't had a chance to install it the new LP regulator - can't disconnect regulator from tank valve. Will update when I get it done and get the furnace running again!
At one point when the Q was running I wanted more light so I boosted the charger to equalize (14.4v) and the noise level increase substantially. It got me thinking that if I only run the furnace at the minimum operating voltage at all times, this should result in the lowest possible DB level.
An adjustable 8-22v voltage regulator rated at 3amps should be at my doorstep today. Plan is to set it about 0.2 volts above the sail switch minimum voltage. Then I'll recheck the DBs. The voltage regulator does heat up so I will mount it to the furnace outer casing where it with will act like an air cooled heat sink.
UPDATE: I haven't had a chance to install it the new LP regulator - can't disconnect regulator from tank valve. Will update when I get it done and get the furnace running again!
1997 Chinook Concourse, over 200,000 Miles
Re: New Suburban NT-16SQ
In effort to minimize the introduction of new threads for old subjects, I am reinvigorating this thread on furnaces to see if anyone has any updated information on the aforementioned Suburban NT-16SQ or Propex HS2800 as replacements for our stock propane heater units (my Rig is a 2004 Premier)? On our last trip in early October to Shenandoah National Park, we had several chilly nights where the temps dropped to around 20F...and it got us to thinking that it sure would be nice to have a more efficient furnace that drew less than the 7-8 amps associated with the current blower fan so we could run longer without having to worry about waking up to drained batteries. Both of the newer furnaces mentioned here, as well as the Suburban NT-20SQ, the NT-20SEQ or Propex HS2800 are said to draw considerably less amps (3.1 all the way down to 1.7, I believe).
To my thinking that would make a huge difference in run-time that could make cold weather boondocking a whole lot more appealing. In addition to hearing from someone who has installed one of these units as to their ease of installation, function, and efficiency, same goes for any creative suggestions on the ducting of air from the unit-which is fine during the day when dinette is up, but not so good at night when all that hot air is trapped under the couch/dinette bed platform. Blue-go...I keep looking for that duct you mention back near the closet to no avail! And I'm certainly not as ambitious or talented as Willywalderbeast (WOW, what great work!), but can't help but imagine there is some simple/better way to circulate that hot air. Any and all suggestions welcome.
David
To my thinking that would make a huge difference in run-time that could make cold weather boondocking a whole lot more appealing. In addition to hearing from someone who has installed one of these units as to their ease of installation, function, and efficiency, same goes for any creative suggestions on the ducting of air from the unit-which is fine during the day when dinette is up, but not so good at night when all that hot air is trapped under the couch/dinette bed platform. Blue-go...I keep looking for that duct you mention back near the closet to no avail! And I'm certainly not as ambitious or talented as Willywalderbeast (WOW, what great work!), but can't help but imagine there is some simple/better way to circulate that hot air. Any and all suggestions welcome.
David