coach batteries

[chin_k]

So that's what it mean about the white box! Thank you, Clay, I think you helped me there with a mystery that I wonder about, but never made the connection.

I would do more troubleshooting at the LVD before going after the 50A fuse, however. It is nice and dry inside the coach.

[retiredtim]

Found the "black box", oh, that's the white box. Cleaned the contact and we're working fine. Thanks for all your help!

[retiredtim]

Having some issues again with power from solar panels. I have 12+ volts going into controller and 12+ going out. But when I measures the line at the coach battery terminal, I have zero. It looks like the lines run through the self resetting fuses. I checked the voltage there and got zero. Is it a direct line from the controller to those resetting fuses? I've tried to follow the lines but those are the only areas exposed.
The other issue I have is when I turn on the water pump. It shows the battery condition as poor but goes back to good when I shut the pump off. ( the batteries are Trojans that I purchased last year-tested them and the individual cells are okay)

[chin_k]

The solar output should be much higher than 12 volts. Without connecting to anything else (VOC, as in open circuit), the voltage can be as high as 21 volt. Anyway, there is a inline fuse very close to the battery, so make sure it is not blown.

If you are not charging the battery properly, it will be low on voltage. I would fully charge it (directly, if needed), and see if the water pump "problem" still there.

[retiredtim]

The only inline fuse is on the positive line from the car battery. That one is fine, when I turn on the vehicle I get 12 volts coming through the line. The other two positive lines (I'm assuming) is one for output and the other is from the controller of the solar panel????

[chin_k]

I am kind of lost there.... maybe if you take a look at the wiring diagram on the manual, it will be more clear?

As far as I know, there is a 7.5 A inline fuse between the battery and the solar controller. There are two resetable fuses going to the LVD (15A and 50A on the diagram), as well as one going to the solenoid that connect with the chassis 12V battery. Your question is related to the solar panel, so I am referring to the 7.5A inline fuse. The solar output should be diagnosed independent of your chassis alternator and the converter ("brown box" under the sink area), so let's not plug in to shore power, turn on the generator, or let the chassis engine run.

So you did you tested the voltage before the 7.5 A fuse, and confirm that it is not blown?

[retiredtim]

I have four positive wires going to the house batteries - two are 8 gauge and one is twelve gauge and the fourth one is attached to the 8 gauge and has an inline fuse. When I start the van, I get power to one of the 8 gauge wire that has the smaller inline fuse wire attached to it. I have the diagram and I see what you're talking about but that's not what happens. Do you know if the 12 gauge wire is supposed to be the feed from the solar panel? Do you know what the second 8 gauge wire is used for?

[caconcourse]

The wire with the in-line fuse is definitely from the solar controller, unless someone has changed the wiring. You should have voltage on that line (before the fuse) even if the engine is not running. It sounds like you need to replace the in-line fuse. If you have the old solar controller, you should check the fuse on the controller as well.

The battery status (green/yellow) is based strictly on the voltage. When there is no load on the 12V system, the voltage may rise to the "floating" voltage, but when you turn on the pump, a load is applied and the voltage drops below the green level if your battery is not charged sufficiently.

The second smaller red wire from the battery without the in-line fuse goes to the LVD, along with one of the big wires. The other big wire goes to the separator under the hood.

[retiredtim]

In re-checking the fuse, I found a fifth wire attached to the 12 gauge. Basically, I have 3 sets of wires going to the positive terminal on the house battery- (1) an a red 8 gauge with a black 12/14 gauge includes an inline fuse (1) red 8 gauge (1) red 12 gauge with a smaller red 14 gauge attached.
The only one that shows any voltage is the first one when the van is running. Any ideas????

[caconcourse]

One additional note. If you have added solar panels to your system, you may need a bigger in-line fuse, because your solar input may exceed 7.5 amps. I replaced mine with a 20amp, which is still safe for the wiring but will protect against a short circuit.

It sounds like the wire bundles were wrapped differently than the original configuration, but I am sure the wires themselves go to the original locations. The smaller red and black pair (14 gauge?) go to the solar controller and have the in-line fuse. One big red wire and one smaller red wire go to the LVD (the small one powers the LVD, I believe, and the bigger one provides shore power charging and the house 12V feed from the battery. The other big red one goes to the engine compartment separator and provides charging power from the alternator.

If you have solar power coming in the wire with the inline fuse should have power, even when disconnected. The big red cable from the engine will have power when the engine is running. (That is the one you are seeing). The other big red wire should have power when you are plugged into shore power, as it is the shore power charging cable.

Also, you should not have any black wires attached to the positive terminal of the batteries!
Update - Holy cow, the in-line fuse wire is black! and is connected to the positive terminal! However it is the solar power positive voltage, so be aware. It also appears that the two smaller red wires both go to the LVD, and not one to the solar controller, as I had thought.