MORryde suspension

[Astrodokk]

I called MORryde today and spoke with Ashley, who is not only the in-house rep but also the parts ordering person.
I told her what I have, and let her know that I have two options:

DSR108-75 or MO25-02

She said that the DSR is bonded and more for transit busses and is more expensive, and the MO is bolted and more for RV's and is less expensive. They are for the same weight rating.

She also mentioned that they are converting their RL system to an RS system, so things are changing in suspension rubbers. She said it's easier to maintain.

Anyway, she couldn't tell me why I couldn't use the DSR system instead of the MO. So their engineer is going to call me back to explain the difference of the two. I'll let you guys know what they say.

[chin_k]

Looking at your photos, I think you can get away with just replacing the passenger side of the spring. The driver side still look OK, but the MorRyde people can tell you if they are acceptable.... something with sliding thing into the gap, etc.. to see if they are still alright.

If you just need to replace the passenger side, then you will need to get the same MO spring, I think. The good news is that you can save some money by doing just one side. I would save the "bad" springs in case someone someday can use them. I got mine used, and because they are bolted, I just replace half of the spring that was ripped, and bolted it back with a better piece. It works well for me since I do this myself. For those of us who need to pay $120/hr for a mechanics, it is not worthwhile to reuse old spring.

[Astrodokk]

Yes I read your thread about replacing only the split side. Didn't know you micromanaged it further by separating the two halves and replacing the torn half only! That's one way to keep extra parts available until you need them! Good idea. I'm not sure if I would have thought of that, especially since I'm OCD anal retentive, and need balance!

I would think that's a lot of work. My bolts look very rusty and I wonder if they will be difficult to remove.

Anyway. I'm going to have to do both sides because although the driver side does look fine from the outer aspect, there is a deeper split on the inner aspect that can't be seen unless getting way under the rig like I did.

Now to wait to find out if they still only recommend the more expensive MO25 or I can use the DSR108.

Chin, what Monroe shocks did you end up using? I'm planning to buy the Monroe RV shocks. I think you said you were going to get the 555031 fronts and 555032 rears. Are they the same as RV ones?

[chin_k]

I got the Monroe shocks you mentioned, but have not have time to install them yet. My current project is to replace the awning brackets back so I can put the awning on them. I am going to reinforce the back with something.... right now, they are held there with 9 sheet metal screws.

Anyway, the shocks I got was the ones for RV, not for ambulance. I did not think I need them, but because they are relatively cheap components (about $50 each piece), I just ordered them, and wait until I have time and just replace them. I think Flame got the version with the coil on the outside, and it make his rig a bit stiff. Clay got the regular ones like mine, I think, and he has good experience with them.

Back to MorRyde, I am interested to heard what Ashley said about what you should get. They surely confused me when I talked to them. My preference is to stay with the original setup, unless they have a good reason for different components. For the bolts, I replaced all the fasteners when I did mine. So I remove all four bolts that connect the plates together, and put new ones one, with loctite (hey, we are all OCD to some degree!). If your bolts were rusty, just twist them off, since you are getting new ones anyway. It is the easy part. The most difficult part about MorRyde install is the passenger side, where the exhaust pipe is going to be in the way when you try to compress the spring in order to remove them. I have to use a hydraulic ram to compress it per the MorRyde instruction. I have no luck with a C-clamp, but I only have very limited selection of clamps in my garage (mostly for wood working), so maybe it is possible. The driver side is easy, and took about half of the time.

[caconcourse]

Yes I read your thread about replacing only the split side. Didn't know you micromanaged it further by separating the two halves and replacing the torn half only! That's one way to keep extra parts available until you need them! Good idea. I'm not sure if I would have thought of that, especially since I'm OCD anal retentive, and need balance!

I would think that's a lot of work. My bolts look very rusty and I wonder if they will be difficult to remove.

Anyway. I'm going to have to do both sides because although the driver side does look fine from the outer aspect, there is a deeper split on the inner aspect that can't be seen unless getting way under the rig like I did.

Now to wait to find out if they still only recommend the more expensive MO25 or I can use the DSR108.

Chin, what Monroe shocks did you end up using? I'm planning to buy the Monroe RV shocks. I think you said you were going to get the 555031 fronts and 555032 rears. Are they the same as RV ones?

Just for reference, I have the DSR108-75 MorRyde springs and the Monroe 555031 (RV front) and 555032 (RV Rear) shocks you are looking at, and I'm very happy with the ride. The springs are about 3 1/2 years old with about 40,000 miles on them and still look like new. I had asked for a "heavier duty" version of the MorRyde springs as I had read some forum entries indicating the original springs were a little undersized on the Chinook causing them to fail earlier than expected. Not sure about the accuracy of that claim, but the DSRs seem to be working well regardless.

Clay

[Astrodokk]

I have had such a hard time finding a place willing to install them once I get them.

Finally called Les Schwab and although they said they have not had any experience with the MORryde system, they looked it up online and the service guy said it looks pretty straightforward to him. But they do not just install customer ordered parts. So I gave him the DSR108 part number and am waiting for a call back about cost.

Another truck service shop said they would install, but labor cost is higher, and it would just be better too have them order it with a professional pricing and lower labor cost ($119 vs $150 an hour).

Will decide where to go depending on cost, but so far am going with the DSR108-075, and will be replacing shocks with Monroe 555031 fronts and Monroe 555032 rears. The front steering damper looks like it was replaced recently so will wait on that (and I can do it myself anyway).

Thanks for all the info.

[Astrodokk]

I got a call from MORryde and they told me that it's up to the discretion of the owner which one to use, as they are the same weight rating.

The difference is that the bonded DSR is a little softer than the MO25, due to the fact that they are two bonded blocks of same density rubber versus the MO25 being two blocks bolted together.

As I am thinking of using the E450 rear sway bar ala Blue-Go, in the future, I think the DSR will be perfect, as the sway bar will stiffen up the rear some. I don't want it too harsh.

Waiting on a total price from Les Schwab. MORryde said it should only take two hours for a shop to do it.

[chin_k]

Ask MorRyde for their recommended installers around your area, or you already did? Some of us have long story in which the installer have no idea what they are getting into, and it took days to get it done. You don't want incompetent shop to learn how to install it on your dime.

softer is good, but I have a feeling that the anti-swag bar going to completely negate the effect of the DSR and more. I would check with MorRyde and the suspension people:
1, to make sure MorRyde and anti-sway is compatible. You don't want to end up with something that can't be put together due to some configuration issue. I do not know anyone, not that it mean much, that have anti-sway mechanism with MorRyde, FWIW.

2, if it can be done, maybe you should look for even softer spring that can work with the ASB?

[Astrodokk]

That's a good point about the compatibility of a rear sway bar with the MORryde. I'll ask about that.

I know that Blue doesn't have the MOR system and that he did get the rear E-450 sway bar. Maybe it'll be overkill.

But every time I go over a driveway the damn thing sways left and right so much that it almost dislodges me from my seat!

Yes, I did ask about a reputable shop in my zip code area and they had none in their database. The authorized dealer, an RV service center a few miles away, never heard of it and asked me to send them a photo of what I was talking about. Not too encouraging.

Hey Chin, I just thought about this. I'll take it to Irvine and have YOU install it for me while I go to Disneyland since you're so experienced with this now!

Seriously, I am hoping Les Schwab will be able to handle it. I have another drive planned to Colorado in July and I want this rig in tip top shape.

I'm sure Blue will be ecstatic to read about another road trip.

[chin_k]

There should be a front sway bar. Ask your mechanic to check it and make sure it is not broken, have a worn brushing, etc.. I do not think mine sway that much... Do you think your broken MorRyde is why it sway that much?