waste tank heater

[joanbmorgan]

My waste tank heater isn't working. At least I'm assuming it isn't working. The light on the switch doesn't go on like it used to do, after accidently running the battery down on one super cold night. I'm wondering if the fuse blew. Does anyone know where that fuse is? I have an original (2003) manual but can't seem to locate where the fuse is to check it out. Thanks in advance for any advice on this. Joan

[chin_k]

welcome to the forum!

It is frustrating, but I don't think for my 2000 Chinook, the information is documented anywhere on the manual. I assume your 2003 is very close to my setup, so hopefully this is something going to be useful to you. The fuse that take care of the holding tank heaters is the same one for the furnace in the brown box under the drawers. It is a 12G red wire on a 20 A fuse.

[Blue~Go]

Welcome to the forum, Joan!

I don't have tank heaters, so can't comment on the specifics. But I can say that unless you have a pretty robust (i.e. not stock) DC system, it's probably not practical to run them on battery power alone. Things that heat via electricity take a LOT of power. I would think that with the stock setup they would want to be run only when plugged in or running the generator concurrently.

Anyone who actually has the amp figures can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I know this doesn't help you now, but for future usage it may (I assume you were running them on battery since you say your batteries ran down).

Again, welcome!

BG

[Chinnin-about]

I don't have tank heaters, so can't comment on the specifics. But I can say that unless you have a pretty robust (i.e. not stock) DC system, it's probably not practical to run them on battery power alone. Things that heat via electricity take a LOT of power.

Those who spend much time in winter climates full timing, agree that using the tank anti-freeze is the ultimate solution. It's fairly cheap. Just pour it down the drain, about 50% anti-freeze to effluent, depending on how cold it is. No need for any power, shore or battery.

I also keep my fresh water tank empty and my waterlines empty, and use a 5 gallon jug to carry drinking water. I boil water on the stove for dishes...sorry about no shower.

[SMan]

My tank heaters are 110 and I don't use them. I dry camp in the winter (or use a porta potty) and use the black and grey water tanks w/anti-freeze as said earlier.

[joanbmorgan]

Thanks for all of the great information. I almost always have my Chinook plugged in when using the waste tank heater but for some stupid reason I hadn't this one time. Yes, its a huge drain on the battery! My bad!! I've used antifreeze ever since. It's great getting such good info from everyone! I bought my 2003 Chinook about 4 years ago. Best purchase ever!! I have people stopping me all of the time wanting to buy it.

[Blue~Go]

I almost always have my Chinook plugged in when using the waste tank heater but for some stupid reason I hadn't this one time. Yes, its a huge drain on the battery!

As far as the heater(s) not working, did you check the fuse? Or are they fine now and you were just trying to figure out where you went wrong?

I bought my 2003 Chinook about 4 years ago. Best purchase ever!! I have people stopping me all of the time wanting to buy it.

I hope you'll continue to join us here. I tend to try go quietly about my business but the Chinook is not always the best rig for that because people do like to see them

[joanbmorgan]

No, the waste tank heater still isn't working. I checked the furnace fuse and its fine, as is my regular furnace. I know very little, but logically thinking if its not the fuse, then either the light on the switch isn't working and the heater IS on(which seems highly unlikely) or else the heater itself has broken. And actually, I'm just assuming its not working because how do I get into a waste tank to check it? Frustrating! I guess I just give up and use the antifreeze from now on.

[chin_k]

I assume you got it fixed, so I was quiet.

Anyway, for the lighted switch, it has three terminals. The top is where the power comes in, the bottom is negative, for the lamp. The middle tab should be 12V when you switch it on. Check with a volt meter to make sure the switch is working, independent of the status light. If there is no 12V+ on the top tap, then you need to trace the wiring back to the fuse and see where is the short. If there is 12V+ on the top and it switch on the middle tap with 12 V, then the lamp in the switch is bad (pretty rare, but you never assume).

In summary, there is only three cases where there is no light. 1, no power to lamp switch, 2, switch is defective. 3, lamp is defective.

I don't think it applies to you, but for completeness, you can check the heat coil with an ohm meter. It should read reasonable like 50 to 150 ohm (large enough that won't blow the 20A fuse). If you read resistance that is too low (from V = I*R), then the fuse should have blown, and there is a short in the coil. If the resistance is infinite, then there is a short somewhere.

[Blue~Go]

Good advice above. You could give up, but I wouldn't yet. Also, I would make sure to check the correct fuse. I don't know that it would necessarily be the furnace fuse. Let me look in the manual and see if I can see one listed (I'll report back; have to remind myself what year you have). Okay, I see you have a 2003 - which model? (If you put that in your signature it's helpful in general).

I don't have a 2003 manual on hand, but I looked at the 2000 and the 2004 for the Concourse (not sure which model you have). The 2004 seemed to show that it would be a 110 breaker. Have you looked at your 110 breakers? Are you sure the tank heat is 12 volt? (I believe it could be either depending on what they put in). I say "seems to show" because I'm not sure if "heat" is always the in-floor heat or if it could be the tank heaters. Anyway, not hard to check an AC breaker. Even if it isn't tripped (or if it is), you might want to cycle it once (off/on) because sometimes they want that to reset.

Also, you could turn it on and then aim an infrared thermometer at the tank. Sure, it's insulated, but I would think there has to be some heat leaking out. Infrared thermometers are cheap nowadays (under $30) and useful for many things. Another clue (if it is 12 volt) is that if you turn it on and it's working, your battery voltage should drop noticeably (heat takes a lot if it's 12 volt).