Wheel Simulators

[Blue~Go]

I would say yes you'll have to buy another one -- unless you have the missing nut to somehow re-attach or can cobble something up that looks acceptable to you.

BG

PS: I have seen tire shop employees "wrench" those non-removable "nuts" right OFF, which is why I always removed mine prior to taking it in to a shop. Maybe that's what happened to yours. It also annoys me to no end when they turn them (or any other hubcap) upside down on the concrete floor, toss the nuts in them, then kick them off to the side, shiny side down (hey, thanks for all the giant scratches). I've also seen them come back put on in such a way that the edge of the simulator hole nearest the valve stem would wear a groove in the extended stem if not changed. Just basically bad news all the way around to have a shop touch them, in my experience.

[caconcourse]

I would say yes you'll have to buy another one -- unless you have the missing nut to somehow re-attach or can cobble something up that looks acceptable to you.

BG

PS: I have seen tire shop employees "wrench" those non-removable "nuts" right OFF, which is why I always removed mine prior to taking it in to a shop. Maybe that's what happened to yours. It also annoys me to no end when they turn them (or any other hubcap) upside down on the concrete floor, toss the nuts in them, then kick them off to the side, shiny side down (hey, thanks for all the giant scratches). I've also seen them come back put on in such a way that the edge of the simulator hole nearest the valve stem would wear a groove in the extended stem if not changed. Just basically bad news all the way around to have a shop touch them, in my experience.

Here is a good story for you about the tire shop and the simulators. We had a flat on our last trip (after a rocky 14 mile unpaved drive in Big Bend NP), but we didn't notice until a couple of nights later, because it was an inside dually. The tire was ruined, but the treads were getting thin, so we put the good tire on the spare and got two new tires for the duallies. The tire shop took an extra hour to install the tires, even after we went to breakfast. The manager said they couldn't get the "hub caps" off and eventually removed them with a chisel! What?, we were thinking. It turned out, the poor installer thought the cover on the jam nut was supposed to come off, so he could use his lug wrench. He spent an hour separating the chrome covers off of the two lug nuts, instead of using the oversize socket to remove them! So now our jam nuts are just nuts. He was confused, because we had lost a jam nut on the other side on a trip, and the tire shop had replaced it with a regular nut, so he assumed the jam nut cover was removable. (Sometimes those caps are really hard to remove, the manager told us!)

I was just thankful we still had an intact wheel simulator. Eventually, I'll get around to ordering new jam nuts with nice covers. And I will remember to get out the little lug wrench for the simulator next time we go to the tire shop.

[Scott]

I'm no fan of the simulators (and I always removed/replaced them myself if any work was to be done), but on mine the simulators fit tight to the wheels and the holes matched up just about perfectly so.... no difference in the need for extended stems vs. just the plain steel Ford wheels (the "eight hand hole" holes in the stock Ford [Accuride] wheels are small). Do you have different wheels on yours? I looked at a Chevy truck based dually RV once and the holes in the wheels were big enough to just reach in - nice.

Awe sorry if I wasn't clear. I have the regular stock Ford wheels. I honestly don't remember if the simulator holes lined up. All four of the rear wheels had hose extensions which were fastened to the simulators at the hub area. I inspected the hoses the first day I got the rig home, and never put them back on (I wasn't a fan of any of it). Now I just have standard valve stems, blow through caps, and painted wheels.

Last I looked you could buy just the "fake" nuts for the Versa Liners, if that's all you need.

I'm running the stock steel lug nuts (no covers or anything). I'm eyeballing a set of chrome lug nuts though (actual nuts).

[Flame]

Skilett, just see what size your tire is and that will determine the size of your covers. example 225/75/R16.....16 being the majic number. One of my removable "locking nuts" stripped out on mine because it only catches about 2 threads when you screw them on. I found a chrome truck lug nut that fit and works a whole lot better than the original stuff. Note: make sure you get the exact right size threaded nut!!! Can't remember, it might have even been metric size. What ever size your wheel "studs" are it will need to match.

[Blue~Go]

One of my removable "locking nuts" stripped out on mine because it only catches about 2 threads when you screw them on.

I wish I could remember what was different about those two nuts on the later model. Not sure it's any better, but ... oh, I think I do remember. Whereas ours just thread on to the Ford lug that's left exposed, I think the later ones (??) have a stud that you thread onto the Ford lug, and then you thread the simulator nut onto that. (In other words there is a male/female intermediate threaded part.)

Or am I making that up? I have/had the ones like Flame with the two threads (although they never came off, it wasn't the most confidence inspiring).

Scott: That's how I have my front wheels now. Just the stock Ford (Accuride) "8-hand-hole" steel wheel painted silver, with the stock Ford nuts (the ones with the built in swivel washer). I need to do the rears, but have to find the right spot to remove and paint them. I do have the extended stems though on all six wheels (solid metal, not the flexible extension thingies - that's what came on my rig and they looked like a problem waiting to happen).

[Flame]

Blue I just got my 2 front wheel valve stems done last week with the solid steel stems like we have on the rear. Your right. Should have got all 6 done at the same time but I can be stubborned!!! I did also go ahead and have a complete new set of cruise control buttons installed and it works perfect now. Parts and labor was $250.....cheaper than a stroke from high blood pressure while banging on the steering wheel trying to make the cruise work!!!

[Blue~Go]

I can just imagine the cries of frustration (and the banging) on long trips. It would almost be better if it never worked because then you wouldn't have that faint glimmer of hope and keep trying Now that's in the past

Good to hear that you like the extended stems. I still get a little "yay!" feeling every time I check my tires (guess I'm easily amused )

[Riste]

I am also about to give up on the wheel simulators, not comfortable they will stay in place given the small thread area to attach.

[Blue~Go]

If you like them, it still might be worth a try. Mine never fell off, even with that whisper of a thread holding them on. (That's not to say no-one's ever lost one though.) I just wasn't that fond of them. But then I never liked vinyl flooring that looked like stone, either Plus the annoyance of having to take them off/on before going to a tire shop. But they do look shiny and tidy, so if you like them, maybe give them a try. If you install/uninstall them instead of tire shop people, you probably stand a better chance.

[Riste]

Is there a "thinner" nut that could be used on two of the lugs on each wheel. That would give us more threads.