Replace faucet

Section for discussion of Chinook interior and appliance issues, repair or installation.
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caconcourse
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Joined: October 31st, 2014, 10:25 pm

Re: Replace faucet

Post by caconcourse »

Here is a link to a simple set of adapters that will convert the 1/2" threads to 3/8 compression, if you happen to use a residential faucet n your Chinook, and don't want to cut any pipes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BY ... 6IET&psc=1 Use Teflon tape on the 1/2" threads, not needed on the 3/8 side.

Found these in a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rx1k22k-JHk "how to replace and install and RV kitchen faucet.
Clay
2001 Concourse
Santa Barbara, CA
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Blue~Go
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Joined: July 31st, 2014, 1:01 am
Location: 1999 Concourse

Re: Replace faucet

Post by Blue~Go »

Those are the ones I mentioned (but did not link) above, but I had completely forgotten that you could attach them via the female "hand wheels" that are on the pipes and I had lost my link to them. Good catch.

Not trying to convince anyone either way (as I think both ways are good just depending on what one wants), but just so people know, cutting the PEX pipe is really simple. They make special "scissors" but you can use anything really - you just want a straight cut vs. a crooked one, and the outside of the pipe should be smooth and not all gouged or whatever (that's where the push on connectors seal).

Actually, on that topic, although Chinook used the crimp connectors (vs. the push on) during the build (they are much cheaper if you are doing an entire vehicle, so it was the right choice by them), it's not a bad idea to carry a few push on connectors juuuuust in case on the road (or you can get them at Home Depot, etc.). You could make careful cuts with just about any knife you'd have along.

I carry a small bag with things like end caps, unions, and elbows, plus a short length of the 1/2" CTS (Pex) tubing. That way you could make a repair on the road if necessary. A note if you buy the Pex tubing (Home Depot, etc.): If you buy the "sticks" instead of the tubing that is rolled up, it's easier to store and work with, IMO. Easy to stick a piece behind the couch or in the front of the overcab. The rolled stuff never really "wants" to lie straight.
1999 Concourse
Kirah
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by Kirah »

Just going to tack this on to this thread instead of starting a new one :roll: I just replaced my old, leaky faucet with a new one. I spent time on the Lowes web site reading install manuals to find one I thought I could reasonably install without making myself insane (I can only get one arm in that cabinet at a time).

Incidentally, if you haven't had a look yourself and are wondering what you're up against if you have this generation Premier, this is what the underside of my stock faucet looked like:
20210910_085124.jpg
I ended up with a Pfister Allegan (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pfister-Allega ... 1000205621), which installs just like the old one I took out, right down to the 1/2" threaded connectors on the underside of the sink. I thought I could just re-use the existing PEX connections, but I couldn't get them lined up quite right - the angles were just a bit wrong when the faucet is positioned so that the deck plate sits far enough back that I can use the sink cover, and the PEX is just not flexible enough... I finally gave up.

Since no project can be completed without at least one extra trip to the hardware store, I went back and got 12" x 1/2" faucet supply hoses - the braided metal kind, and a couple of push-to-connect 1/2" MNPT adapters, along with a PEX pipe cutter. It really was a very simple job, just awkward. Attach the adapter to one end of the supply line, screw the other end to the faucet stem, cut the PEX line, and shove the push fitting onto the end of the PEX. I'm not sure I had enough leverage to make a really solid seal that would hold up to city water pressure, but I didn't have any drips when I turned on my water pump, with or without the tap running, so I'm cautiously optimistic that I won't have to go back for crimps and such.
20210917_105215.jpg
Fingers crossed it all stays tight when I go jouncing over the next set of railroad tracks!
1999 Premier, now minus all passenger side cabinets and appliances :twisted:
chin_k
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by chin_k »

You really need to make sure the Sharkbites are all the way in, otherwise, it will leak. I will test it at city pressure with someone inside who can yell out to stop when you turn on the pressure. The pump is maybe 15 psi? City water can be 60-80psi.

The good think is that you got a PEX cutter, and it cut the edge nice and square. I would mark the pipe with a Sharpie so that I can tell how much is in the Sharkbite. Once it is in there, it should be fine. Personally, I don't use Sharkbite unless it is readily accessible, FWIW.

Edit:
The one on the top does not look like you push it all the way in.... I will remove it, mark the pipe, and re-insert it so that you know it is good.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Kirah
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by Kirah »

It does look a little crooked, but that supply line is putting a fair amount of downward pressure on it. My hardware store did not have the depth/deburring tool, so I'm not sure how to tell when it's far enough in (other than the "it doesn't leak" test) - how far down would you mark it?

I have watched the videos for using the crimp and clamp connections, and I don't think I could manage that in this space - one handed, working by touch only.

This whole project makes me want to rip out my last remaining original cabinets just so I can reach+see everything :lol: I don't think any of this was designed to be serviced. I feel like the poor technician who had to remove the dashboard from my car just to replace the $5 plastic clip that made the windshield wipers go.
1999 Premier, now minus all passenger side cabinets and appliances :twisted:
Kirah
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by Kirah »

Never mind, found the chart for how deep they need to go: https://www.sharkbite.com/resources/pip ... epth-chart

Now how am I going to measure and mark that when I cannot see and touch at the same time? hmmmm... pondering... masking tape cut to the right length, so I can feel the edge, mark it, and remove the tape?

It's too hot out there to work this afternoon. I'll give it a try in the morning.
1999 Premier, now minus all passenger side cabinets and appliances :twisted:
chin_k
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by chin_k »

Do not use deburring tool on PEX with Sharkbite. I think you know what you need to do. Just mark it with a Sharpie pen, so you know when you did not go all the way into the SharkBite. If you only have one hand, just mark a line, and measure it to see if you need to add another mark so that you know it is far into the SharkBite enough for it to be seal by the O-ring. I prefer not not to remove the PEX from the SharkBite ever, but in your case, you should do it once and make sure it is good. They are not meant to be re-insert again, again and again. So insert it once (or twice for your case), and make sure it is good once and for all.

Again, you just need to mark it so that you know sufficient length of the PEX is inside. You can mark multiple lines and all you need to know which line is the minimum for it to meet the recommended inserted length.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
chin_k
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by chin_k »

Oh, another thing I want to point out is that you want to clamp the pipe/hose to the wall. You do you want the heavy adapter to bang against the wall or swing back and forth. Definitely will get it to come off the O ring over time.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
daltonbourne
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Joined: August 5th, 2021, 4:51 am

Re: Replace faucet

Post by daltonbourne »

If you want to improve your RV’s fuel efficiency and reduce your maintenance costs, you might want a non-metallic RV/ home faucet. After removing the nut, wrap the threads with Teflon tape. It will help you add extra protection against potential leaks.
Last edited by daltonbourne on May 4th, 2023, 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
68camaro
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Re: Replace faucet

Post by 68camaro »

daltonbourne wrote: April 27th, 2023, 7:35 pm If you want to improve your RV’s fuel efficiency and reduce your maintenance costs, you might want a non-metallic RV/ home faucet. After removing the nut, wrap the threads with Teflon tape. It will help you add extra protection against potential leaks.
LOL....I love teflon tape....discovered it in 80's fixing pools during summer break in high school.
2001 Concourse XL Lounge model, 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis.
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