I just remembered that I took some photos when I was replacing my water heater. So these are from my '99 Concourse.
The first photo just gives you the general overview of the hole after I had removed the original water heater (don't mind the wood hanging down - those cleats Chinook puts in around the holes tend to do that because they are set in polyester "mush" -- but it's pretty simple to epoxy them back in place, and epoxy will make a solid bond).
The second one shows more detail on the original propane line (yes, they siliconed it to the carpet where it comes up through the floor
The third one is where I had just set the new water heater in place to check the fit. You can see the original Chinook propane flare is coming through the hole in the pan (sans grommet, as this is just a dry run) and kind of sitting on the orange protective cap that comes on the water heater (that you remove when you put the flare nut on).
Thanks for the additional information. I appreciate getting more details on how this stuff is ‘supposed’ to look.
We just got back from a weekend in the Chinook in Sedona and it looks like we did not die. There doesn’t seem to be a propane leak. Unfortunately, it does turn out that i do have a leak, probably in my water pump. Most likely exacerbated by my extensive use of the pump when sanitizing. My flooring is slowly bubbling up, and my cabinetry is getting damaged, but this might be a post for another thread.
I used this MTI Industries’ 35-742-BL Dual RV LP/CO Alarm and it's an excellent choice. I can install easily. This device can detect both gas leaks and CO gas at the same time. It has a plug-in 12V power source, so I won’t ever need to replace any dead batteries. Besides that, this product can withstand the rugged environment of an RV and function at any temperature between 40 F and 158 F. Therefore, I feel fine when I travel.
Last edited by daltonbourne on October 21st, 2021, 4:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
daltonbourne one thing to keep in mind is that you need to make sure the LP detector have DC power when you are using the rig. They can make the CO portion (and smoke detection too) to run on battery, but the LP portion is a real current drain, so they need to be on DC power. If you shuts off the DC, it is not working (both CO and LP), so you need to remember that.
Too bad they have not able to come up with a LP alarm that can run on cell battery.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
There doesn’t seem to be a propane leak. Unfortunately, it does turn out that i do have a leak, probably in my water pump. Most likely exacerbated by my extensive use of the pump when sanitizing. My flooring is slowly bubbling up, and my cabinetry is getting damaged, but this might be a post for another thread. 